Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Optics S&B 3-12x50 Klassik L3 - Parallax?

Doug’s price has me really looking but I normally would require parallax adjustment on a 12x scope.

Any actual users of this scope have any advice??

I just ordered a Klassik 3-12x42 from Doug and ordered parallax at 200 instead of the 100 standard.

I can’t speak to whether adjustable parallax is needed on this scope but I hope it is not. It is going to replace a 4-16 scope because i don’t want to be messing with adjustable parallax for the style hunting i do. And i wanted a first focal plane reticle.

I have several(5) of these, mostly 42mm version but 1 50mm at the moment. They are my favorite all around hunting scope and have couple I with the TDS reticle and shoot them out to 700 yards without any issues.

I think for the money that Doug is selling it's the best scope you can buy anywhere. You won't ever regret having this scope in your collection, super versatile.

Good Luck. J

Thanks JBB. Do you find the image reasonably sharp at further distances (300-400 yds)?

Yes, I find the optical quality very good. I currently have S&B, Swaro, GPO, Leopold, Leica & Zeiss in my collection. The image may not pop, seem has bright or colorful as some of the others but I find the scope the most useable in the field. One of my hunting partners just bought one last year after years of my praise now it's his favorite scope. The combo of the 1st plane reticle and the image quality work perfectly. On the last day of hunting season last year shot a doe at 315 yards with about 2 minutes of legal shooting time left in dark pine trees without issue, TDS reticle.

If you'd like to discuss just PM your contact info and I'll give you a call tomorrow.

Dave, I've had a 3-12x42 w/#4 for about 20 years now. By far the best hunting scope in the world. Nothing rivals it for clarity and toughness. powdr

You just about have me convinced.....almost.....

I wonder how the S&B glass compares to the 3-12 Bushnell LRTS/LRHS?

Please don't use the name Bushnell and Schmidt & Bender in the same post. powdr

not to mention the price . I have the same scope that `I bought from doug and paid about 200 more it is crazy good in lowlight.

The LRHS/LRTS line is no slouch. Don’t kid yourself. For the most part I don’t care what label is on the outside. I judge by performance.
Still say the 3-12 Klassik would be improved with PA of some sort....
Pretty sure I’ll call Doug Monday.

Comparing apples and oranges both Mechanically and by Optical performance. I would take S&B CS over just about anyone as well.

You want a long range hunting scope buy the Bushnell.

The Klassic has been made for decades without PA and is not a long range scope, just look at W/E max adjustment. However if you want one of the better lowlight scopes made the S&B and a few others are in a class of their own. It's a bargain at what Doug is selling it for, they are not made for everyone.

Good post OEH!

A couple of older builds of mine.

Sorry about the photopoop..
1.5-6x42 Flash Dot on top.
3-12x50 On bottom.
dave

Borrowed one of these but seems the illuminated dot isn’t very bright. Changed the battery but seems pretty dim even at dark thirty I had to have it at 6 before I could even barely see it on 12x.
Normal??

These are built with the intention of the scope being a low-light performer, hence the very dim illumination on the lower settings. In other words, this is one low-light scope with acceptably-dim illumination -- built correctly, Many out there are far too bright in that regard and negatively impact your vision.

+1

I had a hunch this what I would hear but wanted to check as it seemed like settings 1-4 were of no value even in complete darkness.

Thanks guys. I am keeping it..... I may buy a Leica ERi in same configuration for another rifle. 😀

If you couldn't see 1 through 4 in full darkness -- and by that I mean at least an hour after official sunset and with no other light sources around -- then your scope is dimmer than the norm. Personally, I'd be thrilled as that makes it even more useful for moonlight conditions. A very crude but useful rule of thumb is that if you can clearly see the fully-illuminated dot in a well-lit room (looking at mid-or-light-toned walls or curtains) when on the lowest setting, it will likely be far too bright for true low-light applications. But for the 30-minutes-before to 30-minutes-after shooters, those will still likely work just fine.

I’ll double check it but for sure at 1&2 you cannot see any glimmer in a completely dark room....