Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Mausers and Military Rifles Thinking about building a Swede.

I've always like Mausers. To that end, I really want a Swede to hunt with. I'm not real well versed on the different Mauser rifles. If you were going to build a 6.5 Swede as a hunting rifle, what action would you choose?
Second question-can I do the cock-on-open conversion at a later time, or does it need to be done in conjunction with the trigger and safety job? I don't want to stay with a stepped military barrel. Suggestions for a decent barrel that won't totally break the bank will be appreciated, as will suggestions on a decent stock. Wood or glass? I will definitely be mounting a scope on this, and Weaver bases are fine by me. Scope will most likely be a 3x-9x of yet to be determined pedigree. What would you guys suggest? Anyone have a complete gun or action I could start with? Thanks for your suggestions guys.

Just get a 98 action and you won't have to dink with cock on opening. That said I have 2 small ring Swedes here and they are very fine as is.

Have one of these https://www.brownells.com/rifle-par...t-chambered-mauser-barrel-prod22531.aspx on a large ring.

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There are many different ways to approach a build. The most expedient way to a scope rifle is to start with a commercial Mauser action like an FN or Interarms Mk X or similar. Already drilled and tapped and bolt is scope friendly.

Basically, replace the barrel and go shooting. Wanna get fancier, restock it.

I've built a good many 6.5x55's. Some utilitarian and some fancy. My first personal 6.5x55 was built on a Mk X action using a LW Barrel. It has an 8.7" twist. These days I prefer to use an 8" twist to take advantage of all the high BC bullets offered nowadays.

Both my boys started with 6.5x55's. My youngest's was built on a SR Mexican 98 action, my oldest's on a Commercial 98.

Thanks for the info guys. What should I expect the price range to be on an FN or Interams action assuming I can find one?

Both will run between $200-$500 for a solid donor. Usually the FN will bring a higher price.

A Turkish action will accept a Swede barrel. They're both threaded the same.....
You'll have a "Twede"....

Back when Turk actions and Swede takeoff or NOS barrels were cheap and plentiful, this was a viable option. Now NOS Swede barrels are hard to find and expensive when you do. Add to that the cost to have the action drilled and tapped and a new bolt handle installed and its easy to see why starting with a Commercial Action ends up being a more economical approach in the end.

Certainly not the most economical approach, but using a M96 Swede as the basis for a "once in a lifetime" custom gun has its merits. Do a search for the rifle that forum member "Pugs" did recently. He started with a M96 action and installed all the bells and whistles and his smith did a masterful job of tuning it, plus a new 20" barrel and full length stock made of gorgeous walnut. I've held the rifle and it is to die for. (And it shoots marvelously too.) Perhaps he'll see this and post a pic.

Thanks for the heads up Gary. We’re up in NH right now on the retirement lake search and pics are a pain with the tools I have right now so will have to wait until later this week.

On the cock on opening. I did an Ed LaPour 3 position safety (ok. To be fair Mark Penrod did who deserves all the credit) and it was a major pain he said. Does work perfectly though.

Lots and lots of metal smoothing needed.

I'd love to put together a beautiful Mannlicher stocked 96, but this will just be a working man's hunting gun build. I want an aftermarket barrel, not a stepped military barrel. I'll be doing this in chunks, as I can afford it. I really want to stay with a military action, preferably a 96. Guess first step will be to pick up a gun or a donor action. Are there things I should definitely stay away from when looking for an action or donor gun? I'm wanting minute of deer accuracy. Doesn't have to be a half inch bench rest gun, just consistent.

About 30 years ago when I was on a major 6.5x55 kick I threw together a half-assed sporter using a M38 Swedish Short Rifle as a donor. (Mind you such beasts were $100 or less back then.) I found an old Bishop semi-inlet stock and whittled about a pound of superfluous wood off it, stuck an orphan aftermarket 22" barrel on it (gunshow find, maker unknown), and mounted a Lyman cocking piece sight. Safety and cock-on-closing, and original turned down bolt handle all was left alone. The thing shot like crazy, but that wasn't enough to prevent me from swapping it off on some long forgotten treasure a few years later. I don't miss the gun terribly but I would give my left nut to have that cocking piece sight back.

I remember it loved the same load that was sweet in my then current Winchester XTR Featherweight 6.5x55- 46 or 47 grains (c'mon, it was 30 years ago) IMR 4831 (not H-4831, there was a distinct difference in performance) and the 129 Hornady, Norma brass (which was about all that was available back then). 140 Partitions were a close second.

They can make a tidy piece. Here are a few shots of my 7x57 that Jim Wisner metaled. The quarter rib runs on to the receiver ring with integral scope mount base. The left side was given the 33/40 cut. He also made an excellent set of QD rings that time perfectly and he made the bottom metal. Cock on closing with a LaPour safety. Glass smooth in function and quite accurate.

Beautiful rifle Ed.

Found a 96 Swede with plans for a truck gun. Chopped the barrel to 24", mounted a scope, and had a butter knife bolt handle installed. With it still carrying the 110 year old military barrel, it will consistently do clover leafs at 100 yds and went to the safe with my other fine guns. Still need a truck gun.

Husqvarna 640.

Quality made, with good steel.

I have a few19092 with crests intact I'd like to use for a brace of 7x57s for my wife and daughter. I have another 1909 I could possibly be convinced to part ways with. PM if you'd like to chat.

Whatever action you choose, it would be more economical for you to find a custom rifle already made. You never get the full Return of the money sunk into a custom. It is best to let someone else eat that depreciation.

Honestly if you really want the most bang for your buck buy a Tikka T3 hunter in 6.5.

If you must build a custom, look for a rifle that has already been sporterized. The donor action will be much cheaper

Yeah, but where's the fun in that?!