Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Gunsmithing Accuracy, lack of....

I have a leupold 6-18 A/O on the gun. It came off a custom Rem 700 that shoots 1/2” with that scope. And with me shooting.
Is it the shooter, maybe. But I usually take several guns to the range. And I can easily get sub 3/4” on many of them.
I’m going to let it sit a while and kill and antelope and elk with my bow.

Well the 77-22 hornets were never really known for there accuracy and 17 barrels are notersly hard to make...on my 77-22 hornet..there was a fix floating around on the Internet...this was early internet so who knows if it's still around...but it was a shim in the 2 piece bolt was supposed to help bolt alignment...it did help but I never got that rifle to shoot under an inch...and I have lived with it that way and it does just fine of what it is..a hundred yd gun...
The biggest single improvement in my was lapping the rings...they were horrible...made more difference than hand loads...I went from 3 inches down to 1.25 overall...

He's already shimmed the bolt.

Have you played with Torque on the action screws. That has helped me. Sometime a different setting will make a huge difference. My Ruger 17 Hornet is very accurate

I have a torque wrench, and have torqued them at 40 and 25 inch pounds. Didn’t notice a difference.
What level do you torque action screws?

Thats a good answer.

You say in your original post that your rifle is currently averaging 1.25”, with some groups at an inch.

What’s wrong with that?

Where are you trying to get to?

“Some groups” are as good as 1” is not very good for a Shilen select match barrel rifle.
I have many rifles with custom barrels that crowd 1/2”, on a regular basis, versus this one that can occasionally shoot a 1” group.
Been hunting and currently in an archery elk camp for a week.
Not sure when I’ll get back to work on this rifle. Frankly I’m frustrated with it.

My method is to insert a bore sighter. Without touching it at all, tighten and loosen bedding screws (recoil lug and tang) noting the position of cross hairs after each event. If there is any movement at all, then ones action is being stressed.

When I bed rifles the process is completed without using screws at all. I prop everything up with bags and simply sit the barreled action in the stock with a couple wraps of masking tape around the barrel to assure it's floated when all hardens.

My worst case ever was a Mark V Weatherby in 257. Removed the fore end pressure point and impact dropped 7 inches at 100 yds. Also turned it into a nail driver.

Also, I had to play with shims to get a rimfire 77/22 to come around. Ended up using a 0.004 shim to assure snug and consistent bolt closure. Next attempt was going to be a new barrel, but it was not needed.

Don't blame you... And, FWIW, it could be that the barrel you got is not 'right'.. I've had two barrels that wouldn't shoot; one was a Krieger, the other a Pac-Nor.. The latter was sent back for inspection. They found a problem and promptly sent me a new barrel.. THAT one shot lights-out..

Hate to say it, but you literally might need to install a different barrel to get what you want.. Any barrel manufacturer can have a turd leave the bowl.. In this case, maybe that's the problem..

I’m wondering about the barrel. May have g smith send it back for a look. I’m not rebarreling again. Got too much in this gun already