Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Ask The Gunwriters Where to start with powder choices?

Since I'm so full of good questions recently.......what do you look at to decide what powder your gonna load when your developing for a new rifle? are there specific velocities in the books vs case capacity/load density vs pressure estimates using software vs bullet weight?

obviously it can change if its just not shooting well, but ya gotta start somewhere and making a good educated guess saves lots of time and money.

Yes Im somewhat of a newbie, but not a dummy.....lol
And i tried searching similar topics, but didn't see anything to really answer my question.

I go through as many manuals as available and note the common "most accurate load" listed. If two or three manuals list the same powder that is a good one to start with. I also look for top velocity and close to a 100% fill level. If this also has lower pressure then it is a good choice. I will also pick the temperature tolerant powders first. Then I consider things like good metering, clean burning and availability. A good place to start is with JBs "Loads that work" old and new and "Pet Loads" by Ken Waters. Each of these writers have extensive experience and will up any ones learning curve on reloading.

I don't have any experience with "Loads that work" but I have used loads from Ken Waters "Pet Loads" for many years. As a matter of fact I have letters from Ken in my files from back in the day when he would personally answer readers of Handloader magazines questions. Last fall I used a Ken Waters load to take a nice whitetail buck, the load was outstandingly accurate often producing 3 shot cloverleaf groups @ 100yds. and performance on game was equally impressive. The handloading world suffered a real loss with Ken's passing, his wisdom, knowledge and experience live on in his legacy "Pet Loads".

Guess im gonna have to search out these articles and read up then....

It would be time well spent, gleaning knowledge from Ken Waters especially, he was considered by many to be the "Dean of Handloaders". While I read material from lots of other sources including as many loading manuals as I have access to, Pet Loads has never failed to provide useful information.

Start by learning a bit about powder burn rates in general and how that relates to the bore vs case volume. Study some burn rate charts (the Western Powders chart has the best visual representation IMO), but also keep in mind that those charts are an attempt to describe a three dimensional attribute in one dimension.

With some understanding of burn rates, look at load data for your cartridge, and focus on the top few powders for velocity. (In most cases the accuracy load, if listed, will be one of those powders too.) Comparing the burn rate of those powders to your charts will give you an indication that other powders within the same range may also work well. Consider density too though; sometimes a powder of the correct burn rate is too bulky, so it doesn't work simply because you can't get enough in the case.

That's how I start off. There are exceptions of course, like when building mild loads, working with cast bullets, or other things that stray from traditional published data. There are some rules of thumb to apply with those type of things, which we can discuss if you want.

When assigned an article on a specific cartridge, I start by consulting the latest published data, noting what loads are noted for accuracy (more companies do that these days) along with highest velocity. Have found most rifle handloaders are still into the highest possible velocity, despite a few contrarians.

Then I test all the top-listed powders, with several different bullets. Often I play around with seating depth as well. The tests often agree with published results, but also sometimes don't. But in general, those powders provide the highest odds of a good, consistent load..

Would add that while Ken Waters' PET LOADS in a great resource, probably the majority of powders he used are either discontinued, or have changed--even though the name is the same. But many of his other results are very useful. One example is how he got better results in many instance with .224" bullets in the .22 Savage High Power than supposedly "correct" .227-.228 bullets.

And that is why reloaders have to keep current. Things change. Technology improves. Older data may no longer be
any good.

As a general rule, I start with the reloading manual for the bullet I'm using. The Hornady manual for Hornady bullets, for example.

To reinforce what John has posted, the powders listed in the manuals have been tested. They are usually your best bet.

As well, the bullet co. tech line is a valuable resource.

We all have different priorities.....among mine is to continuously reduce the number of powders I keep on hand.

So I do this:.....since I have decided to only use Hodgdon powders, I go to their website and review the best velocity potential for their powders.....I then review what I have on hand.....If I already stock one of the "listed" powders, I start there...…(usually I do)

I usually start with something a bit on the slow burning side, and work toward faster burning as needed. Plus I start with a temperature compensated powder whenever possible.

I'm one of those contrarians MD mentioned. Once I decided that 200 yards was the farthest I would walk to pick up an animal, my life got a lot simpler. It does not take a super zippy load to reliably work at that range.

I look for powders that give decent velocity at the starting level. That way, if I get good accuracy right off, I can just call it done, and brass and barrel get a break. My requirements are admittedly modest since my shots are usually pretty close.

Berger recommends trying different seating depths at the starting level to determine the best position, then tweaking the powder charge. Gonna try that with their 115gr 6mm, then maybe with bullets from other makers.

Friend, does that indicate age ? or the decision to not spend that much effort ?



As for myself, I must walk whatever that distance is to verify shot placement and expected
demise of game. After that I walk to my 4 Wheeler for retrieval.

Thanks Mr D

Jerry

I check my reloading book for recommended loads. I try them first. I use IMR 4350 and Reloader 22 in most of my rifles. I need to try other powders but I get such good results, I’m having a hard time making myself change.

Hanco you might take a look at R23 it works in most applications that R22 and 4350 work. It's temperature tolerance is as good or better than H4350 and lot to lot variation (so far) beats the heck out of R22. I am getting almost as much velocity with R23 as I am getting with R26 so I may phase out R26 although there are rumors that Nitro Chemie is working to make it even more temperature insensitive which it is very good at for normal temperatures already, it's just the abnormal temps of Texas where there is much variation and pressure increases.

Tejano....I was also wondering about temp sensitivity of the RL powders. I have seen lots of good data from 23 and 26 when researching for my 6.5-284, but also know historically RL is not stable. Living and hunting in Mississippi some days ill hunt in 20-30 degree weather and some days itll be 65 or higher

buy i keg of H4831 short cut

A Moore, simple really get the Nosler and Hornady latest editions reloading manuals . Look at the data on what you want to load for ,look at the loads that produce the highest velocity at max pressure get those components, start at the recommended load and carefully work up to your accuracy load. Why start with powders that burn to fast or slow for ideal performance for the cartridge you are using? MB

For a guy just starting out, I'd recommend the Hodgdon Reloading Center:

http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/

It has loads for all Hodgdon, IMR, and Winchester powders. That's a fairly big universe to get started. I've been into reloading for nearly 2 decades, and a rarely stray out that database.

I also recommend sticking with middle-of-the-road powders for the following reasons:

1) Slower powders will get you into trouble in a hurry if you undercharge
2) Faster powders will get you into trouble if you double-charge.
3) Powders like H4895 are not sensitive to where they sit in the case, how much they fill the case or the ambient temperature.



I also want to give a big +1 for Pet Loads. That's a wonderful reference.

One thing I always keep in mind is the idea of running powders within the correct or proper pressure range. Using a slow number like 7828 at 42000 psi, as an example, probably won't turn in good performance. Much better to run something faster, like one of the 4350s at 55000 psi or more, as appropriate.