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Originally Posted by hunter4623
Go to a local truss builder. They need to know the roof pitch, snow load, etc to get you the appropriate beam. They’ll put the info into the computer and spit out the correct info. Redneck engineering is a quick way to get killed when the roof collapses. I put a 12’ double slider in my house. I think I remember it was a 5.5 x 12 x 14’ and only had a 1/4” deflection on a 4/12 pitch roof.

This. Many builder supply centers also have someone trained to do this on a computer. It will be made for allowable building stresses and deflections. Might have to screw more than one laminated board together but they will walk you thru that too. I just ran a ridge beam 26 feet in a vaulted ceiling. That sumbitch prolly weighed 400 pounds or more. No way around the weight when you span that long.

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Originally Posted by hunter4623
Go to a local truss builder. They need to know the roof pitch, snow load, etc to get you the appropriate beam. They’ll put the info into the computer and spit out the correct info. Redneck engineering is a quick way to get killed when the roof collapses. I put a 12’ double slider in my house. I think I remember it was a 5.5 x 12 x 14’ and only had a 1/4” deflection on a 4/12 pitch roof.


I have a friend in the business at Lumber 84. I'll give him a call this week and see what he says


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Originally Posted by huntsman22
Somebody needs to get a clue on construction.....

thats what I'm trying to do


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One thing about advice on the 'fire, you will always get some. Useful?, if you know what to believe.


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Originally Posted by huntsman22
Somebody needs to get a clue on construction.....

Very helpful.....NOT!

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Beam depth is your friend when making long spans. The picture you posted would need a post underneath! You can block under it and use restraining ( tension ) rods, These take heavy metal mounts at the ends, and need turn buckles lift the beam! And you need two rods per beam.

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I think I'm on the right path with the suggestions earlier. I've been working out how to do it with the gluelam

Last edited by KFWA; 08/18/19.

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All glue lam's are crownded, just make sure the crown is up!

Last edited by Heym06; 08/18/19.
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You don’t have to be smart enough to know everything. Just smart enough to know where to find the answer. Work with your local truss or builder’s supply center. Their service is free (at least around here it is) to properly size the materials. And they also are in tune with local building codes. And maybe you need a building permit??? I’m not saying to go get a permit. Heck I’ve done some low profile home construction that I know needs a permit but something this big might not go undetected by your municipality. And the only thing more embarrassing than getting caught without a permit is having to tear it down and starting all over again because it violates code.

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Originally Posted by steve4102
You need a Gluelam or an LVL.

Order the proper engineered length and width yo need.



Yep


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I recently had a 20' clear span garage door header with roof load only, 24' width. Our code is based on 40psf live load/ 10psf dead load. It required a 3 ply 16" LVL. Sounds like your beam will be exposed go the elements so I'd use a pressure treated glulam.
As stated above, most glulams have camber built in so make sure it's set appropriately. Also, in my area, there's a lot of design requirements to deal with uplift, especially when it's an open sided structure like yours. How its fastened to the supporting posts and how they're fastened to the footing can be just as important as the downforce.



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ok, I'm gonna drop by and check in on the permit this week


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wife got some video of me starting the project

https://i.imgur.com/SZrnS1a.mp4


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Lol, I'm glad to see your getting started and things are going well................Always good when no one dies........


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Used "I" beams for our 24' carport, bolted to 6X6's, been 15 years or so now with no issues.
Feels weird on the occasion I've been on the roof as it has a little bit of sway to it.


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I haven't had a chance to get down to 84 Lumber and talk to my friend, will probably have to wait until the weekend.


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Originally Posted by KFWA
wife got some video of me starting the project

https://i.imgur.com/SZrnS1a.mp4

Bet that hurt.

Youre wasting money on glu lam on your application . Are you not setting a post every 8’ (10’ max) down the load side? If so, a double 2x10 would be fine here. A double 2x12 may be needed at your location though. To clear span the other way (width direction) , use manufactured roof trusses exactly how the drawing states shocked.c. Spacing , bracing ,and dont forget “hold downs”. Simpson strong tie makes some and they are required by code with roof trusses.


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Originally Posted by KFWA
wife got some video of me starting the project

https://i.imgur.com/SZrnS1a.mp4

DAMN,.... If your gonna be stupid you better be tough....

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Originally Posted by rong
Yep,all good choices,lvl+duct lift. or steel I beam.
Not an engineer,but dont think plates+ bolts would last/hold up

agree, here

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Originally Posted by KFWA
wife got some video of me starting the project

https://i.imgur.com/SZrnS1a.mp4

Please tell me you are just joking, here man.!!!!

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