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Originally Posted by Brad
Originally Posted by SheriffJoe


In the Pacific Northwest, many of us are more impressed with Colorado ice climbers than we are with Colorado "North American high peak climbers".

So, now that you've introduced us to KC, Peakbagger... have KC fill us in on the details. Some of us love route details, especially of remote Alaskan, Canadian and Washington State peaks. Colorado peaks...not so much.


Is it really necessary to be so snarky?


I'm not familiar with the term "snarky" but I'm guessing it means "assh*le??"



A wise man is frequently humbled.

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Originally Posted by smokepole

I'm not familiar with the term "snarky" but I'm guessing it means "assh*le??"


That's pretty close...

Funny, we have a fraternity of world class climbers here... you just don't find them engaged in dick-stretching contests.

Those that have BTDT seem to have the most humility...


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Uh huh...get your dentures in, your rainbow headband on and your socks and sandals on and come out cackling from the henhouse..."fraternity of world class climbers"...PFFFT!


Don't ask me about my military service or heroic acts...most of it is untrue.

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Originally Posted by Llama_Bob
I've seen more well-shot game lost with TSXs than any other premium bullet.

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Wrongside, needy paragon of Fakebook, tell us more of the great finds you discover on your boyfriend's laptop.


Don't ask me about my military service or heroic acts...most of it is untrue.

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Originally Posted by SheriffJoe



Uh huh...get your dentures in, your rainbow headband on and your socks and sandals on and come out cackling from the henhouse..."fraternity of world class climbers"...PFFFT!


Yup, that's me, aging hippie.

I could mention the names, but won't degrade them in a conversation like this.

Suffice to say, anyone in the alpine climbing world, any where in the world, will know the names. Your name, not so much...


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Originally Posted by SheriffJoe


In the Pacific Northwest, many of us are more impressed with Colorado ice climbers than we are with Colorado "North American high peak climbers".

So, now that you've introduced us to KC, Peakbagger... have KC fill us in on the details. Some of us love route details, especially of remote Alaskan, Canadian and Washington State peaks. Colorado peaks...not so much.

Joe:

I'm getting kind of long in the tooth and my climbing days are in the past, but I might have climbed something that you are interested in climbing. I would be happy to provide info.

Yes in Colorado bagging peaks is the thing and most Colorado climbers get started that way. Me too. I have climbed 130 peaks in North America: all of the Colorado fourteeners and many other CO peaks (you say you're not inteterested in CO). But I didn't quit when I completed the Colorado fourteeners. I also climbed the big three on the Westcoast (I assume that you've already done those), the Mexican Volcanos, McKinley three times before Obama renamed it including the south Buttress.

I've done some ice climbing including the Arnold-Michael route on the Crestone Needle, the Black Ice Coulouir on the North Face of the Grand Teton, Liberty Ridge on Rainier, and several of the Canadian Rockies including Mount Robson. Mount Assiniboine is really dramatic. The Ouray Ice Park is lots of fun although none of the clmbs are more than half a pitch.

KC

PS: I always wanted to do some climbing in the Wrangle-Saint Elais Wilderness. But McCarthy was as close as I got.


Last edited by KC; 09/10/19.

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Originally Posted by Brad

Those that have BTDT seem to have the most humility...


So true, as is the opposite.



A wise man is frequently humbled.

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Originally Posted by SheriffJoe



Wrongside, needy paragon of Fakebook, tell us more of the great finds you discover on your boyfriend's laptop.

You've got him pegged laugh crazy

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Originally Posted by KC
Originally Posted by SheriffJoe


In the Pacific Northwest, many of us are more impressed with Colorado ice climbers than we are with Colorado "North American high peak climbers".

So, now that you've introduced us to KC, Peakbagger... have KC fill us in on the details. Some of us love route details, especially of remote Alaskan, Canadian and Washington State peaks. Colorado peaks...not so much.

Joe:

I'm getting kind of long in the tooth and my climbing days are in the past, but I might have climbed something that you are interested in climbing. I would be happy to provide info.

Yes in Colorado bagging peaks is the thing and most Colorado climbers get started that way. Me too. I have climbed 130 peaks in North America: all of the Colorado fourteeners and many other CO peaks (you say you're not inteterested in CO). But I didn't quit when I completed the Colorado fourteeners. I also climbed the big three on the Westcoast (I assume that you've already done those), the Mexican Volcanos, McKinley three times before Obama renamed it including the south Buttress.

I've done some ice climbing including the Arnold-Michael route on the Crestone Needle, the Black Ice Coulouir on the North Face of the Grand Teton, Liberty Ridge on Rainier, and several of the Canadian Rockies including Mount Robson. Mount Assiniboine is really dramatic. The Ouray Ice Park is lots of fun although none of the clmbs are more than half a pitch.

KC

PS: I always wanted to do some climbing in the Wrangle-Saint Elais Wilderness. But McCarthy was as close as I got.




Congrats on the Liberty Ridge route. We did Curtis Ridge and the next year East Willis Wall to Curtis Ridge.

A few:

Multiple ascents of all the Cascade volcanoes, from all the cardinal approaches. They all have Indian names, too.

Half the peaks in the Northern and Southern Pickets.

Goode Peak. Forbidden Peak. Mount Logan. Mount Index.

Multiples of Mount Shuksan, Mount Stuart, Dragontail Peak, Prusik Peak and a few others I've forgotten...oh wait...Colchuck Peak. American Border Peak.

Hats off for the McKinley/Denali climbs.

I don't travel to Canada, anymore, but I do keep the occasional eye on them.



We considered Jeff Lowe who spent much time in Colorado as the deacon of alpine style and regret his passing.


Don't ask me about my military service or heroic acts...most of it is untrue.

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Joe:

Not being from the west coast, many of the places/routes that you mention are not familiar to me. Are there any easy peaks in the Northern Cascades? smile I remember looking east from near the top of Liberty Ridge and thinking that there was nothing easy over there.

Are you still climbing? There was a time when I was leading 5.10 pretty reliably and pushing 5.11. But now I've worn out my body and have multiple health issues to show for decades of wear and tear and abuse. Now I'm just a has been who relives his adventures buy telling stories.

One of my neighbors owns a second home in Estes Park. He invited us up for a weekend. While there he mentioned that Thomas Hornbein was a neighbor. He invited him over to talk to me. He spent almost four hours talking about his first ascent of the West Ridge of Everest, and many other climbs. He also talked about all the famous climbers of that era; the Lowe brothers, Rienhold Messner, Jim Wickwire, and more that I can't recall right now. What a gentleman he was.

Once I met Fred Becky in the climbers hut at Talkeetna and I prevailed upon him to autograph my daypack with a magic Marker. I still have that pack.

KC



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Fubarski:

Sorry for high jacking your post.

KC


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5.10 is very creditable. You got to be pretty skinny and relatively short to do anything past that.

Never cared much for rock routes, but you get into it on mixed routes out here. Am sure you know what it's like to edge with crampons and dry tool!

Do any waterfalls in Colorado? We have to really bust ass to find good water ice in this region. Love the green alpine ice, though...like cork! Don't know that I can trust rehabbed rotators anymore, though for anything past a couple of ice pitches without exchanging leads.

Did Shuksan and Baker a month ago on a 3 day vacation.

If you still got your legs, Hannegan Peak gives you a 360 deg view. Ruth mountain is pretty easy. Hidden Lake Peak. Cutthroat Peak. Lots of 'em. Lots of bears.

Most of the approaches are brutal to many of the more "remote" peaks. Seems like as soon as guys get any money...they start RVing and give up anything requiring "effort".

Frequently stuck in an alien enviroment in the SW at the moment.

Fred Beckey...old school badass. Very few Fred Beckeys left in the world. He put up many of the routes in the North Cascades.


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If you're really serious then buy an oxygen tent to sleep in at home. You can simulate high altitude while you sleep. I don't think they are cheap or help your love life.



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Originally Posted by Whiptail

If you're really serious then buy an oxygen tent to sleep in at home. You can simulate high altitude while you sleep. I don't think they are cheap or help your love life.


Just sleep with your sheet wrapped around your head 😜


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Originally Posted by KC

Fubarski:

Sorry for high jacking your post.

KC


Never a problem.

Way I see it, *everything* posted is interesting, in its own way.

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Originally Posted by SheriffJoe


Never cared much for rock routes, but you get into it on mixed routes out here. Am sure you know what it's like to edge with crampons and dry tool!

Do any waterfalls in Colorado? We have to really bust ass to find good water ice in this region. Love the green alpine ice, though...like cork! Don't know that I can trust rehabbed rotators anymore, though for anything past a couple of ice pitches without exchanging leads.

Only a few climbs in CO require edging with dry tools and crampons and then only a few steps. One exception is the west face of Crestone Peak. I climbed the India Route on the east face of the peak and the descent requires one to traverse a ledge about 4" wide and forty feet long across the face of a thousand foot vertical wall. Really raises the pucker factor. I suspect that west coast climbers commonly encounter similar situations.

Lots of waterfalls though. The north face of Mount Lincoln is the best and I already mentioned the Ice Park in Ouray. But there are many other smaller isolated waterfalls that freeze in winter. A popular one is the Rigid Designator also located east of vail. It's an hourglass shape and one has to climb the upper half while leaning back on your tools. It really requires a lot of arm strength. I climbed it by tieing my picks into my climbing harness and resting.

The best ice that I have ever seen is on the northeast face of the Grand Teton. It's all alpine ice, not water ice, and it sucks your tools in like a magnet. It's layed back about 10° so one can lean into the face. It's really an aesthetic climb about 1,000 feet from Valhalla Canyon to the base of ther Black Ice Couloiur.

I wrote this article and it was published in Trail & Timberline, the journal of the Colorado Mountain Club.

KC

Dead Man's Steel

I have never considered myself to be superstitious. But several years ago I was confronted with a feeling that made me think twice about that.

A friend and I planned to climb the ice falls in Officers Gulch, East of Vail. We had heard on the news, that on Wednesday someone had died while climbing in that area.

We hiked in on Saturday and began hiking up the debris fan at the bottom of the gully. It was covered in fresh snow and half way up the fan we saw where someone had been digging in the snow. When we looked into the hole, we saw a climbing rope. Apparently someone had been hit by an avalanche while climbing and this is where they came to a stop. We figured that this was the remnants of the climbing accident that had claimed a life earlier in the week. Seeing that rope in the bottom of the hole and realizing how it came to be there was a sobering start to the climb, for both of us.

I lead the first pitch, which was uneventful until I nearly reached the top and peered over the rim. There in front of me was and ice axe and an ice screw stuck in the ice. We surmised that the previous climber had just about reached the top and was placing his protection before attempting to climb over the rim, when he got hit by the avalanche.

I finished the pitch and set the belay right next to the axe and screw, then my buddy climbed up after me. My friend collected both pieces of gear and we climbed the final pitch, then rapelled down.

There's a common joke within the climbing community. It says "Climb Safely. If you die, we split your gear." When we reached the bottom, my climbing partner asked me which piece of gear I wanted. I thought about and said that I didn't want either. It just didn't feel right.

In the Navy there's a superstition that it's bad luck to possess anything made of steel that was owned by a man who has died. I never gave it much thought until I was confronted with the choice.

KC



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Interesting article.

I study avalanches, but not a certified forecaster...yet. Your snow conditions are very different than ours. In many cases, more dangerous.

Many, if not most are oblivious or discount the hazard.

You'd be amazed how frequently military personnel lose their weapons and equipment in snow operations.



Our saying is that: "If I'm tied in to you...YOU better not fall!

...if I fall...YOU better arrest mine!"

We only rope up on glaciers, running belays on higher angled slopes or anchored high angle belayed leads.

A deceased climbing buddy's wife gave me his crampons and some chocks and stoppers. I retired the protection and glad the crampons don't fit my boots, so I think am good.


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One time myself and three other climbers were traversing horizontally across a snow field. We started out bushwacking our way through some willows until we came to a wide open space. The first guy to step out onto the opening triggered a big crack that split the face of the snow. We all knew that it was a slab avalanche ready to break loose and we decided that the willows weren't so bad after all.

We rope up for rock climbs and mixed rock/ice climbs of course. We were roped up 99% of the time on McKinley. Twice while not climbing guys fell into crevasses that had no bottom that we could see. Fortunately the cracks were narrow enough that the guy was able to span the crack with his arms and the rest of us pulled them to safety.

Here's another article that you might find interesting. I wrote it twenty-five years ago and it too was published in Trail & Timberline.

HAIL ON HALLET'S

The Northcut Carter Route on Hallet Peak, Grade III, 5.7, is one of the most popular routes for technical climbers in Rocky Mountain National Park. The eight hundred feet high north wall is climbed with seven pitches of sustained 5.5 and 5.6 climbing, on solid rock. This kind of climbing is a pure delight to the technically minded climber. The crux is on the fifth pitch where the route skirts an overhang, to its’ right. We had turned back on Saturday because the weather looked bad and the weather forecast for the next day was good.

R.J. Campbell and I left the Bear Lake parking lot on Sunday, with a promise of sunrise on the eastern horizon. We hiked the trail to Emerald Lake and negotiated the talus field in two hours and were at the base of the wall at 7:00 A.M. There was a clear blue sky. Not a cloud in sight. We started up the wall exchanging leads and leap frogging past each other. This was really delightful. We were cruising the solid rock and enjoying the sustained middle fifth class climbing. I lead the fifth pitch and must have gotten off route because I ran out of rope before I reached the next belay ledge. I called down to R.J. that we had to climb simultaneously for about 20 feet.

The thunder storm must have been lurking behind the wall, growing and preparing its' surprise attack. At about 10:30, in ten minutes the sky deteriorated from solid blue to thick black clouds. The clouds opened up and dumped hail and rain on us and the wall. We tied into the rock to wait out the deluge. The downpour continued and neither of us was in a position to put on our parkas and we were getting soaked to the core. After half an hour there was a lull in the rain and I belayed R.J. up to a small ledge below me. Then I continued up to the intended belay ledge and belayed him behind me.

We were in big trouble. The rain and hail began again and by this time the whole wall was covered with a thin layer of water. All of the ledges were covered with hail and the lichens were greasy wet. In these conditions rappelling down was too risky. Climbing up was nearly impossible because the rock was too slippery and our climbing shoes were nearly useless. We put on our parkas over soaked clothes and began to shiver, while an inch of water drained down onto our feet. If we stayed there too long we would be hypothermic. We huddled together for warmth, for another hour, waiting for the rain to stop. Both of us were shivering continuously.

The rain lessened to a faint drizzle and we waited for the face to dry a little before starting up. It was R.J.'s turn to lead and he started up. He climbed up a thin crack putting in several pieces of protection, then moved onto the face. "Oh no. Falling!" I waited for the jerk on the rope. I waited. Thump. I heard something hit the wall above me then bang, the tension hit the rope. That must have been a real long fall for such a long wait. R.J. was hanging upside down just five feet above me. He had taken a forty feet leader fall. At first I thought that he was unconscious but then he said "where am I?" I lowered him down to the ledge. He was in sever pain and thought that his hip was broken. We had no choice. We had to get off of the wall or die from hypothermia. We couldn't expect a rescue until the next morning at least and we both knew that we couldn't last the night. R.J. said that he could belay me so I started up the wall, aiding every difficult move. I was pulling myself up on my arms because the slippery rock wouldn't hold my shoes.

The last two pitches turned into three of the worst that I have experienced in twenty years of climbing. At times my hands were so cold that I couldn't feel the rock. I could see my hand on a hold but I couldn't feel it. I took two leader falls and on one I hit a dihedral with my elbow and thought that it was broken. But the pain subsided and I continued. I belayed R.J. up behind me and every time that he pushed on his left leg, pain streaked through his body like lightning. We made the top of the escarpment and laid down on the coiled rope and our packs, to get some rest. But it was too cold to sleep. With R.J. Leaning on my shoulder and hobbling on one leg, we descended the scree gully at 8:30 P.M.

The last two pitches, which should have taken an hour and a half, had taken over nine hours. This trip had turned from an enjoyable climb into a desperate nightmare in just a few minutes and we never saw it coming. I suppose the moral of this story is to be prepared. The worst can happen at any time and without warning.


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Most of my ice climbing has been back East. Mainly Lake Willoughby. I have climbed a few routes at Hyalite Canyon in Bozeman, and a few routes in the Bitterroots. Would love to make it to Ouray someday soon. As I would love to climb in Canmore probably more than anywhere else.

Bagging peaks is fun. I have a list somewhere with a whole bunch of them highlighted meaning I have climbed them. But I have never climbed in a Mountain range I enjoy more than in the High Tatras. There is a reason and rightfully so they are called the Biggest Little Mountains in the World.

KC if you ever get the chance to make it to the Tatras I would recommend Rysy From the Polish side. It's a 20 mile out and back, once the climbing starts it is straight up with a bunch of chain sections no switchbacks. Of course climbing Gerlachovsky Stit would be a must. Finishing on Krivan would be a pretty complete trip in my eyes.


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