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I recently purchased a Carl Gustaf stamped 1907 in 6.5x55. I am new to mausers but the gun was so beautiful I just couldn’t resist. It has been customized by the previous owner to have a mannlicher stock. I have read and heard that you have to be careful what factory ammunition to load into these old guns. So I guess my question is: what ammo is safe to load into this rifle? I have bought federal fusion 140gr and S&B 131gr. I really don’t want to have to reload this rifle but I will if I have to

Thanks for any help!


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Originally Posted by Rlhunter0403
I recently purchased a Carl Gustaf stamped 1907 in 6.5x55. I am new to mausers but the gun was so beautiful I just couldn’t resist. It has been customized by the previous owner to have a mannlicher stock. I have read and heard that you have to be careful what factory ammunition to load into these old guns. So I guess my question is: what ammo is safe to load into this rifle? I have bought federal fusion 140gr and S&B 131gr. I really don’t want to have to reload this rifle but I will if I have to

Thanks for any help!


The Swedes built the best pre-1898 style military Mausers in all aspects, so if your rifle is in good condition it should be safe with factory ammo. The most negative characteristic of the Swedish military Mausers is that they don't handle escaping gas as well as 1898 style Mausers if you pierce a primer or have a separated case. If your rifle has already been sporterized, I'd suggest swapping the trigger out for a BOLD or Timney unit with an integral safety and a commercial style bolt shroud with a larger gas shield. I've reworked more than a dozen Swedish military Mausers, but mine were almost all 1942/43 Model 38 Husqvarnas.

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Thanks for your help! I have already thought about buying a new trigger or working the trigger as it is a little stiff. The rifle is in excellent condition so it should be fine to shoot right?

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Originally Posted by Rlhunter0403
Thanks for your help! I have already thought about buying a new trigger or working the trigger as it is a little stiff. The rifle is in excellent condition so it should be fine to shoot right?


If you have any questions about its safety, you should have it inspected by a competent gunsmith.

When I rework a Swedish military Mauser I always do the following 3 things:

1. Replace the trigger with a Bold or TImney unit with an integral safety.
2. Replace the bolt shroud with a commercial style bolt shroud with a larger gas shield.
3. Install a Dayton-Traister cock-on-opening kit.

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Thanks for your help. I’ll check into all of those suggestions

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https://share.icloud.com/photos/06XuCpjT6xLY5b5rMHUA_ji3Q

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0HAoLrbovRjRO5Fdf4g_bCX4w

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0fMS0vPUakPiOeZaqxX3PtmgQ

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0q8-WACSOd0oWNJbR9nrjQsyA

These are links to some pics I have of it. It looks like the safety has already been “modernized” but I am not entirely sure. I hate that I know so little about these types of rifles but like I said I loved the way it looked so much I just had to buy it.

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It is a nice looking rifle.

The safety lever has been replace with what is generally referred to as a "Buehler" style safety.

As previously noted, the primary weakness in the small-ring pre-1898 style Mausers is their gas handling. Replacing the bolt shroud with a commercial style bolt shroud with a larger gas shield goes a long way toward off-setting that weakness. If your 'smith installs a commercial style bolt shroud, he would need to replace the trigger with a unit with an integrated safety. I think that I've purchased the commercial style bolt shrouds from Brownells and MidwayUSA.

If I had seen that rifle for sale, I'd have been tempted 'cause I really like to look at well done mannlicher style stocks.

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NICE NICE I hunt white tail with 6.5 x 55 swede Most over the counter ammo is good to go in one ,but selection is a little limited around here . Most stores stock 140 gr and I like a little lighter 129 gr or so . 2 of mine did not like S&B but the others had no problem

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Thanks for the help guys this all makes me very excited for deer season. Our gun season here in NC comes in early October. I’ll see if I can find someone to give it a look before then. I will shop the bolt shroud and trigger to see what I can come up with. Yeh I am a big fan of well done mannlicher stocks. Some might call me a sucker for em. Since I only paid $250 for this gun I certainly don’t mind spending some money to upgrade it.

Thanks again 260remguy and wa11

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Originally Posted by Rlhunter0403
Thanks for the help guys this all makes me very excited for deer season. Our gun season here in NC comes in early October. I’ll see if I can find someone to give it a look before then. I will shop the bolt shroud and trigger to see what I can come up with. Yeh I am a big fan of well done mannlicher stocks. Some might call me a sucker for em. Since I only paid $250 for this gun I certainly don’t mind spending some money to upgrade it.

Thanks again 260remguy and wa11


Replacing the bolt shroud is like buying insurance, in that you hope that you'll never need it, but it gives you peace of mind when you do have it.

Installing the Dayton- Traister cock-on-opening kit isn't necessary, but I prefer cock-on-opening to cock-on-closing, so I install them on my Sweds and on my Norwegian bachelor farmer friend's Sweds.

PPU sells an inexpensive 139 grain soft point that some 6.5x55 shooters seem to like.

Finding a Bold or Timney replacement trigger is easy, finding the bolt shroud maybe a little less so.

I would have bought that rifle for $250 without a second thought even though I already have 11 6.5x55s.


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This is my first one but I get the feeling that it is the first of many. Do you happen to know what the twist rate is on these rifles?

I have heard from a lot of people that the ppu is a good cheap option. Thanks again for your input it is a tremendous help

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I think that the ROT is around 1-8.5". They are measured in millimeters, not inches, but I think that 1-8.5" is close.

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It's more like 1-7.75"


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I've seen the ROT for Swedish Mausers listed as being 1 turn in 200mm (7.87") and also 1 turn in 220mm (8.66").

The original barrels on my M38 Husqvarnas measure about 8.5". Maybe the M38 were made with a slower ROT because the Swedish military was shooting shorter/lighter bullets than those that they started with in the 1890's.

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The Hornady 160 round nose soft point is listed at 2500 fps from a 24" barrel and would be great for deer. I hunt with 158 Norma Alaska RNSP loaded to go 2150 from my M/1894-14 which has a 17.7" barrel. It simply slays white tail, you will not be disappointed!

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I shot a few deer with 160 grain Norma factory ammo 30 years ago. I really like the round.

Having said that, don't even think about hot rodding the ammo. I wasn't reloading then and factory ammo basically created a headspace issue in my Swede.
I eventually had a pierced primer and a gas leak which was deflected by the Mauser 96 system but it did lock the cocking piece rearward.

I believe it was Hanson ammo that was loaded too hot at the factory but the Norma stuff was pretty stiff back then too.

Scary day at the range that day.

Dan

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Originally Posted by Dantheman
I shot a few deer with 160 grain Norma factory ammo 30 years ago. I really like the round.

Having said that, don't even think about hot rodding the ammo. I wasn't reloading then and factory ammo basically created a headspace issue in my Swede.
I eventually had a pierced primer and a gas leak which was deflected by the Mauser 96 system but it did lock the cocking piece rearward.

I believe it was Hanson ammo that was loaded too hot at the factory but the Norma stuff was pretty stiff back then too.

Scary day at the range that day.

Dan


I can't remember if it was Hansen or PMC, but some company made some 6.5x55 ammo that wouldn't chamber in the Remington 700 Classic from 1994.

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I was in the Fargo Scheels and Cabelas last month. Not one single box of 6.5 Swede between them. Not. One. Box.


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So the pursuit for the commercial bolt shroud has proved more difficult than I imagined. Will the large ring mauser bolt shroud work for my rifle? I have found plenty of those at Brownells.

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Originally Posted by Rlhunter0403
So the pursuit for the commercial bolt shroud has proved more difficult than I imagined. Will the large ring mauser bolt shroud work for my rifle? I have found plenty of those at Brownells.

Check with Jkob, Fire contributor and master Mauser smith. Send him a PM.

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Just another opinion, but I'm not sure you will be able to find a commercial shroud. In the heyday of sporterizing '96 import Swedes, I probably did 20 or 25 for customers, mostly for youth rifles as the word spread in our area. Did four for my family as well, still have three. I never felt the need to go with cock-on-opening, nor a "safer" shroud. I did lighten the striker mass for faster lock time,installed a few Timneys and/or aftermarket Beuhler style safeties. Never had a gas blowback incident or heard of one. It can happen obviously, just depends on your risk tolerance. One of my '96's is a pure long range target rifle, shot in NRA competition for years handloads and factory. CBC, NnY, PPU but very little Norma due to cost. No gas events.


Well this is a fine pickle we're in, should'a listened to Joe McCarthy and George Orwell I guess.
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Originally Posted by 260Remguy
Originally Posted by Rlhunter0403
Thanks for the help guys this all makes me very excited for deer season. Our gun season here in NC comes in early October. I’ll see if I can find someone to give it a look before then. I will shop the bolt shroud and trigger to see what I can come up with. Yeh I am a big fan of well done mannlicher stocks. Some might call me a sucker for em. Since I only paid $250 for this gun I certainly don’t mind spending some money to upgrade it.

Thanks again 260remguy and wa11


Replacing the bolt shroud is like buying insurance, in that you hope that you'll never need it, but it gives you peace of mind when you do have it.

Installing the Dayton- Traister cock-on-opening kit isn't necessary, but I prefer cock-on-opening to cock-on-closing, so I install them on my Sweds and on my Norwegian bachelor farmer friend's Sweds.

PPU sells an inexpensive 139 grain soft point that some 6.5x55 shooters seem to like.

Finding a Bold or Timney replacement trigger is easy, finding the bolt shroud maybe a little less so.

I would have bought that rifle for $250 without a second thought even though I already have 11 6.5x55s.


By any chance, do you some idea what the cock on opening kit costs?


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Here ya go. 59 $

https://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/bolt-parts/cocking-parts/cocking-pieces-amp-shrouds/small-ring-mauser-cock-on-open-kit-prod5690.aspx?avs%7cMake_3=Mauser

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Originally Posted by flintlocke
Just another opinion, but I'm not sure you will be able to find a commercial shroud. In the heyday of sporterizing '96 import Swedes, I probably did 20 or 25 for customers, mostly for youth rifles as the word spread in our area. Did four for my family as well, still have three. I never felt the need to go with cock-on-opening, nor a "safer" shroud. I did lighten the striker mass for faster lock time,installed a few Timneys and/or aftermarket Beuhler style safeties. Never had a gas blowback incident or heard of one. It can happen obviously, just depends on your risk tolerance. One of my '96's is a pure long range target rifle, shot in NRA competition for years handloads and factory. CBC, NnY, PPU but very little Norma due to cost. No gas events.


I can do most of my own metal work, so I'm not paying a 'smith to do the work which might deter others from doing the same.

Installing any of the 3 after-market parts that I use and recommend isn't necessary, but I'm a tinkerer and feel moved to make improvement where I see flaws/weaknesses.

I prefer cock-on-opening and assume that most people do, since it has been the standard for bolt action rifles that aren't Enfield designs since 1898.

I believe that the most important safety change in the 1898 style Mausers was the larger gas shield. Since I'm going to replace the original triggers on my modified Swedish SR Mausers, including the SR commercial Husqvarna 640s, there isn't any reason not to replace the gas shield and reap the benefit of improved safety and peace of mind. Blown primers and separated cases aren't all that common, but it only take one incident to cause serious physical damage. Peace of mind and cheap insurance, but I'm risk averse whenever taking risk is unnecessary and easily avoided.

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Originally Posted by 260Remguy


...and a commercial style bolt shroud...




You know the hook up? I just searched Brownells and MWUSA & nothing...

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Originally Posted by Rlhunter0403
So the pursuit for the commercial bolt shroud has proved more difficult than I imagined. Will the large ring mauser bolt shroud work for my rifle? I have found plenty of those at Brownells.


There is no need for any of that. I have several sweeds and never had the need for any of the suggested mods. Ok, one exception, when sporterized, I did use a low profil safety to clear the scope. I geuss it is too late and some folks have you convinced. So be it.

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No, the large ring won't work.

No need, cept maybe that he wants one. Ain't nuthin wrong with that.

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A question bringing this back up. I recently came into a GS in a 1917. Excellent steel I think. The old fellow when alive had sleeked up the stock nicely. All the numbers match, stock badge etc. the fellow appears to have put a new front site on, very well done. It's a 6.5x55.
Question is what does one do with it? I've never had a gun built from something like this. It has about a 19" barrel, from digging online I believe it is a carbine model. Only thought I had was a drilling it for a scout scope and using it for a truck gun even tho the straight grip area is uncomfortable.
I'd appreciate ideas.

Osky


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The 1894 carbines had 18" barrels, the 1896 rifles had long 29" barrels, and the M38s had 24" barrels.

Champion has discontinued what was previously the Ramline line of synthetic stocks, but you might find one of their small ring Mauser style stocks on eBay. Choate used to make a synthetic stock, but I didn't like them and didn't use them on my Swedish Mauser builds.

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Thanks Rem... I stand corrected I just re measured and the barrel is 18".
Thanks for the info it's been sitting in the gun room some months now and I'm just trying to figure out wether to do some sort of build or sell it.

Osky


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If the thing is still in original military configuration, or could be put back that way, it's far too valuable to "sporterize". Those M94 Carbines are highly sought after. Not too different than taking an original G33/40 and making a sporter out of it these days. Those little carbines were/are one of the few milsurps that make a handy-dandy woods rifle just the way they are.


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Originally Posted by Osky
Thanks Rem... I stand corrected I just re measured and the barrel is 18".
Thanks for the info it's been sitting in the gun room some months now and I'm just trying to figure out wether to do some sort of build or sell it.

Osky


Putting together a nice sporterized Mauser often devolves into a money pit, so I'd recommend selling it.

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Thank you again. I have had lifelong relationships with arms manufacturers and also an ammunition manufacturer so I have plenty of guns that were made to order So to speak, so your right I’m not the guy to delve into cutting this up into a build out.
Yes, it would be a great deer rifle at the least but at my age open sights don’t work with my eyes and if I have this rifle drilled to mount a scout, ahead of the bolt path, I’m probably goofing things up for a future owner.
I’ll look up value and sell.
Thanks for your patience and input guys.

Osky


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Originally Posted by Osky
Thank you again. I have had lifelong relationships with arms manufacturers and also an ammunition manufacturer so I have plenty of guns that were made to order So to speak, so your right I’m not the guy to delve into cutting this up into a build out.
Yes, it would be a great deer rifle at the least but at my age open sights don’t work with my eyes and if I have this rifle drilled to mount a scout, ahead of the bolt path, I’m probably goofing things up for a future owner.
I’ll look up value and sell.
Thanks for your patience and input guys.

Osky


You stated in your first post that it has been "sleeked up some". So, no longer original. That will adversely affect the "collector" value.

I have one that was altered by Interarmco many moons ago. Still, it is one of my favorites. Makes a great back packing rifle. Light, handy, and rugged.

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Z1R yes it came to me with the stock altered? I think the originals had metal bands around the stock and barrel, this has none. Saying that from pictures online however none that I saw were the carbine model. If I ever get the picture thing figured out here I will post what I'm talking about. Bit of an old dog here.
Other than the front sight I believe all metal on the gun is original.
Osky

Last edited by Osky; 12/18/19.

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An 1894 Carbine would have originally had a full-length stock.

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