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Joined: Sep 2006
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Originally Posted by papat
You mightget some headless bolts to use alongwit surgical tubing to wrap around the assembly o squeeze it together. Brownells used to have both. Makes a Mauser a little friendlier to bed.


This ^^^^^^^^^^^otherwise, it's straightforward.

No pillars for me, but I bed the bottom of the rear tang & make sure that the rear screw in clearanced in the stock & not touching, I also bed the first couple of inches of the barrel in from of the lug & usually use a neutral pressure pad at the end of the forearm of the stock.

Never had any issue.

MM


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As far as I'm concerned, bedding and pillars improve every rifle, especially sporting guns. If same doesn't improve accuracy, then you need a new barrel, period.


Up hills slow,
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Tonnage first and
Safety last.
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I understand the reason to bed rifles like the Remington, but the Mauser?


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Originally Posted by John_Boy
I understand the reason to bed rifles like the Remington, but the Mauser?

The relatively narrow Mauser rear tang can compress itself into the wood over time if not bedded. I like a pillar for the rear screw.

As mentioned already, with a Mauser no pillar for the front screw. I like to bed the barrel a couple of inches ahead of the receiver, free float beyond that.

I do use 10 mil PVC pipe tape, several layers on the barrel, full length glass the barrel channel. That treatment seems to stiffen the forearm.

DF.


Last edited by Dirtfarmer; 09/17/19.
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Military Mausers have a steel sleeve at the rear screw. That is unless it's been removed. Commercials are a different story however. Also, no replacement stocks have them. So, you are correct. Add the pillar and proceed.
Also don't forget to relieve ever so slightly the leading edge of the rear tang, or you'll wind up with a cracked stock....


I am the way, the truth, and the life: no one comes to the Father but by me. John 14:6
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So true on relieving the rear tang. Gotta have a slight space, doesn't take much.

DF

Last edited by Dirtfarmer; 09/17/19.
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Just picked up a mini Mauser.
Different trigger guard set up.
It's going to need pillars.....


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98 Mausers and their off springs have a sort of a pillar built in to the front screw. There's that little cylindrical piece on the bottom metal that mates with the recoil lug assembly. If you bed that in good to the stock it acts as a pillar. That makes it a much stronger hook up and I don't see the rear tang cracking if you bed that in. The metal will move with the stock.

Anyway, I took the advice here of doing a little at a time and I was successful. Now I'm in the process of bedding the barrel channel. I'm going to tape the barrel with several layers of tape on the barrel to insure any flexing of the wood due to changing humidity and temperature won't cause the barrel to touch the stock.


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Glad to read it's going well for you. You're right about the bottom metal, that's a super-strong design. But sometimes it's got "tolerances." If your front action screws freely down to a "hard set" without any movement that you can feel at the stock/metal join, you've got a good thing going. In most cases for me, I've had to hog out the screw hole and dress the internal recess with an end-mill bit. Or just make a pillar that fits in the bottom metal cut to the proper length for that nice "hard" seat to torque.
As for the barrel channel, that sounds pretty smart, too, should be really effective weather/waterproofing. I've put a skin coat of "wet" liquid 24-hour epoxy in all my stocks where not bedded, used a heat gun to make it "super wet" and have never had a water issue after doing so.

Have fun, if you get some good targets of before and after, show us.


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Tonnage first and
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My personal favorite is modeling clay for mag wells and masking tape with release agent. Turtle wax goes a long way.

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There are two schools of Mauser bedding:
a) bed everywhere
b) touch as little as possible.

I go with plan b. I touch in 4 spots.
One point is the rear pillar.
Two points are the bottom of the recoil lug on either side to take rifling twist torque reaction.
One plane picks up the back of the recoil lug.



[Linked Image]

The most accurate Mauser I have built to date, was this 6.5-06 when I milled out a long Aluminum bedding and epoxied it in a Boyd's pro varmint laminated stock.

But that is not how I have bedded the majority of Mausers over the last 20 years. They take up the torque reaction with the receiver bottom behind the recoil lug being bedded to the stock. That takes advantage of the flat bottomed receiver.



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The man who makes no mistakes does not usually make anything.-- Edward John Phelps
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bed a mauser same as a swede. only speak german instead of sweedish.


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Wow, Clark, that's nifty. Good for you.


Up hills slow,
Down hills fast
Tonnage first and
Safety last.
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