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Getting ready to Dyna-Tek a shotgun and I can't believe how long it is taking to get to bare metal. I have used so far, Carb Cleaner, Hoppes #9, Flitz, 2 ATF & Solvent soaks, Marvel Mystery Oil, steel wool wrapped brush, JB bore compound. This is on a chrome lined barrel that looked clean when I started. My only guess is that it is successive layers of plastic and carbon lining the bore like the rings on a tree.

This one is almost done after 48 hrs. but I have six more to go. I think I will patch, then soak, then hook up a steel wool brush coated with JB to a drill, then do boiling soapy water, and hopefully only repeat once more. Then Carb Cleaner, dry patch, alcohol patch, then dry patch. Does this sound like a reasonable plan?

Any thoughts or suggestions?


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Sounds like it's well in hand. I always went straight to Ed's Red, and put a cleaning rod w/bronze brush in a drill chuck, followed by patches or a bore mop. The trick (which I confess to not being religious about) is to not let it get that bad in the first place! grin


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Originally Posted by gnoahhh
Sounds like it's well in hand. I always went straight to Ed's Red, and put a cleaning rod w/bronze brush in a drill chuck, followed by patches or a bore mop. The trick (which I confess to not being religious about) is to not let it get that bad in the first place! grin

Put a little Kroil on the bronze brush while you're spinning it around.

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I don't know but BROWNELLS - SHOTGUN WAD SOLVENT is wicked nasty stuff. Eats all kinds of plastic including tile floors. I'd use brake cleaner afterwards to get rid of any residue.


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Last edited by Reloder28; 09/22/19.

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Carb cleaner is petroleum derivatives, maybe acetone and alcohol. Can't hurt steel. Brake cleaner, dry cleaning fluid, is a safer no residue degreaser. Not flammable like carb cleanar. Won;t hurt steel either.


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0000 steel wool wrapped around a brush tight enough to heat up the barrel when driven by a low to medium speed drill motor is what I use. Learned of it in Ralph Walker's Shotgun Gunsmithing book. He said he'd never been able to measure any difference in bore diameter after doing it for years in his favorite guns.

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+1 on Ed's Red. Slather it in. Let it soak overnight and then wipe it out. That's the easy way. I've taken some serious crud out using this method.

BTW: On shotguns, I use the acetone component. For everything else, I leave it out of the Ed's Red recipe. Acetone is a known carcinogen. On shotguns, it's great for dissolving plastic wad residue.


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Originally Posted by Ole_270
0000 steel wool wrapped around a brush tight enough to heat up the barrel when driven by a low to medium speed drill motor is what I use. Learned of it in Ralph Walker's Shotgun Gunsmithing book. He said he'd never been able to measure any difference in bore diameter after doing it for years in his favorite guns.



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Keep it moving in the bore so the barrel doesn't get too hot.

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Thanks.

First one down the next ones get the power tools and boiling water like I've used on black powder rifles. I just did a rifle barrel in about 15 minutes compared to 48 hrs. for the shot gun. Maybe I should clean it better every 50,000 rounds or so? But the bore looked mirror bright so I had no idea how crapped out it was. If the same amount of crud was in the choke it could easily change it to one or two degrees tighter choke.


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Originally Posted by nighthawk
I don't know but BROWNELLS - SHOTGUN WAD SOLVENT is wicked nasty stuff. Eats all kinds of plastic including tile floors. I'd use brake cleaner afterwards to get rid of any residue.



Yessiree Bob- Ed's Red, bottled and sold by Brown-give-me-all-your-money-ell's for about five times more than it would cost a guy to make himself.


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I worked a couple of years with a gunsmith. His trick was to use an electric drill and an bore brush. He used an oversize brush for the chamber, ie, a 10 ga brush in a 12 gauge. On rusted, super nasty barrels he would wrap steel wool on the brush.


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Piece of PVC with ID a bit larger than max OD for the barrel..end cap it then Fill it up with Hoppes or Kroil and soak the barrel for about 30 min.


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I would have STARTED with a few passes of an oiled stainless steel 12 ga. brush before taking power tools to it.


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For the plastic fouling especially I have had pretty good luck spraying Hoppes Elite gun cleaner or Outers Nitro Solvent down the barrel and letting it sit 5-10 minutes. Then spray again right before scrubbing. Then taking an undersized bore brush and wrapping until it's a tight fit in the bore it with either the copper (or steel) mesh scouring pads from the dollar store for a scrub out. Scotch Brite pads around a brush works good too. Other solvent types probably work well too. The method is more about the mechanical removal of the plastic. I use the same method to remove leading from slugs too. I try not to use power tools unless there is rusting. Just my 2 cents worth. Good luck to you.

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This is what a lot of professional shooters use, and it is simply hard to believe how well it works:

[Linked Image from i1160.photobucket.com][/URL]

[Linked Image from i1160.photobucket.com][/URL]

[Linked Image from i1160.photobucket.com][/URL]

The Marine Corp has now adopted the product.

Plastic destroys the patterns in a shotgun, which is why we saw a lot of shooters using this product at large sporting clay tournaments, couple of swipes through the bore and it is clean.

Amazing product!

We also found that a few patches cut to fit through a rifle bore after firing makes cleaning later a lot easier!

Last edited by keith; 09/23/19.
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Originally Posted by gnoahhh
Originally Posted by nighthawk
I don't know but BROWNELLS - SHOTGUN WAD SOLVENT is wicked nasty stuff. Eats all kinds of plastic including tile floors. I'd use brake cleaner afterwards to get rid of any residue.



Yessiree Bob- Ed's Red, bottled and sold by Brown-give-me-all-your-money-ell's for about five times more than it would cost a guy to make himself.

I maintained 4-H trap guns for several years, mostly 1100 and 11-87. That means cleaning weekly after usually a flat or so through each gun. Started out mixing up Ed's Red because we didn't have much money. Excellent at removing powder residue and leaving enough lube for good functioning. Plastic wad residue with a bronze brush, not so much. Choke tubes were a mess. I splurged on a bottle of the wad solvent and my cleaning time dropped by about half. Left spots on the tile floor when drops made it past the newspaper, left black marks where I stepped on a drop and it melted my shoes.(Nobody cared, crappy old clubhouse since remodeled. We now have an inside toilet, whoopee.)

The stuff is nastier than acetone and smells like it too. Wads use a type of plastic that is very solvent resistant, pretty much acetone proof. The wad solvent has trouble too but does better. More like it gets under the plastic and loosens it and come out in chunks and ribbons when you brush it. Best part when you dry patch to finish it leaves something on the metal which resists wad fouling from sticking. Choke tubes were a near but not perfect fit and a lot of fouling would build up at the back of the tube. Easiest way to remove was with a brass scraper. After Brownell's solvent lit scraped off more easily and in bigger chunks. Which is why I recommended post cleaning with brake cleaner if you're looking for a chemically clean surface.

Buying Ed's Red already mixed up makes about as much sense as buying Roundup readyto use instead of a generic concentrate. But some rich (or stupid) people are willing to pay for the convenience. Good for them.

Steel wool (I like 00) and a drill motor works well but a PITA I think. I hate cleaning guns so whatever makes it faster and easier...


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"Bare Metal" is the complimentary partner to the "Completely Clean Patch"; sort of like Leprechauns and Unicorns.


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Originally Posted by shaman
+1 on Ed's Red. Slather it in. Let it soak overnight and then wipe it out. That's the easy way. I've taken some serious crud out using this method.

BTW: On shotguns, I use the acetone component. For everything else, I leave it out of the Ed's Red recipe. Acetone is a known carcinogen. On shotguns, it's great for dissolving plastic wad residue.

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Originally Posted by shaman
BTW: On shotguns, I use the acetone component. For everything else, I leave it out of the Ed's Red recipe. Acetone is a known carcinogen.

Whatever works for you us perfectly fine. Just so you know acetone is the component of Ed's Red which is a solvent for nitrocellulose (unburned/partially burned powder).


The key elements in human thinking are not numbers but labels of fuzzy sets. -- L. Zadeh

Which explains a lot.
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