Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Optics First Focal Plane

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I had a Zeiss Victory FFP and after zeroing the scope at 200 yards, I moved over to the 400 yard range to see how much the bullet dropped. The reticle totally obliterated the target! I read here it is not supposed yo do that theoretically but it did and I sold the scope.

It was a blessing in disguise to lose money, because now I am completely healed from ever desiring another FFP!

Yep, or the LRTS (no 'i') if you want a little finer crosshair for daytime precision work.

That is funny right there. Quit worrying about the markings matching at all powers. Dial the freaking scope to max power and quit fittle farting. Let’s face even if you are a long range hunter its more likely you are not going to be shooting past point and shoot distances. You don’t need to dial or hold over. So you most need a reticle that works on the lowest power. Need to shoot distant, turn power ring to max. Simple, ffp is for prs seal team six wanna bees

My favorite woods scope is a Zeiss Diavari VM/V 1.5-6x42 30mm scope with the #8 ffp reticle. It is usually set around the middle of the magnification range which seems just right for my woods hunting. Then I got a Swarovski ffp 2.5-10x42 PH 30mm scope for my 7mm RM and there again it is fine in the middle magnification range as a hunting scope, but turn it up to full 10x and those crosshairs look pretty thick against a paper target. I know that they cover the same amount at all magnifications, but they do look thick. My varmint rifles have the sfp variable scopes because I use them at higher magnification in better light for smaller targets. Both ffp and sfp scopes have their place on my rifles.

That is funny right there. Quit worrying about the markings matching at all powers. Dial the freaking scope to max power and quit fittle farting. Let’s face even if you are a long range hunter its more likely you are not going to be shooting past point and shoot distances. You don’t need to dial or hold over. So you most need a reticle that works on the lowest power. Need to shoot distant, turn power ring to max. Simple, ffp is for prs seal team six wanna bees

CC,

Surely someone must have asked you before and I probably missed it, but how many FFP scopes have you owned? Which ones with what reticles? Have you attempted to hunt with any of them? How did they fail you?

John

number one rule of big game hunting, BE READY to take a quick shot. what does that mean. it means getting up the the morning, light is often poor. it means spotting a deer or elk flashing through quakeis or pines. you may only have seconds to make the shot. OR it means walking up to a canyon looking over the edge and you only have a very short time to shoot. This means you want the scope on its lowest power setting. You want maximum FOV so that you can shoulder the gun and make a shot, If I have a 3-12 or 4-16 scope, ITS NOT sitting on 7x or 9x Its lowest power. And YES I check and no I don't normally forget it.

those middle range powers you guys fuss all over about the subtentions not matching at are a terrible place for your scope to be adjusted to when hiking, stalking, riding or walking in a hunting scenario. They are going to be a poor choice to make a quick shot with. I don't want to throw my gun up and have the scope set to 8x. I want freaking 3x for that. its meh. the FFP reticle is not going to be bold as I want it to be in crappy light, against a backdrop of quacking aspens or pines with sticks and branches laying randomly on its lowest power. If you simply aren't going to be using the scope at middle power AND also be needing the subtentions. WHY on earth do you want FFP. The fact is you don't . If you need the sub tensions, you should have more time to make the shot because its more distant. You also need the time to judge what animal you are shooting and how big. you also need to have the gun with a better rest of some sort. I carry shooting sticks for shots inside 350 yards. for longer shots, I use a pack of some sort. sometimes a harris bipod. But none the less when I am using those subtensions its a carefully taken shot, I am using a steady rest. and my scope is dialed to max power. I have subtensions that work like they should on max power. I also have a reticle that is bold and visable in low light. This stuff is pretty simple

if you are in a PRS match and shoot moving things at various distances IN EXCELLENT light I might add, FFP is probably what you want. it has no place in a hunting scope. It has a place in other shooting disciplines. this is a hunting forum last I looked.

LOL....I have a few FFPs that are FAR better in low light and low power, for speed/visibility, than a [bleep] TON of SFP scopes I’ve had, intended for the same thing. I guarantee you the hardwoods/pineywoods with a 20 yard picket fence shot windo at 100yard at first/last is far less shot time opportunity than canyon country or foothills.....most days.....at least having been in both. Big, bold, and fast isn’t exclusive to SFP or FFP, variables or fixed. There’s packages in most any setup these days to cover all your bases, if you look. Then throw in today’s reliable illum, and what’s your beef with either? Use what you like.

But none the less when I am using those subtensions its a carefully taken shot, I am using a steady rest. and my scope is dialed to max power. I have subtensions that work like they should on max power.

number one rule of big game hunting, BE READY to take a quick shot. what does that mean. it means getting up the the morning, light is often poor. it means spotting a deer or elk flashing through quakeis or pines. you may only have seconds to make the shot. OR it means walking up to a canyon looking over the edge and you only have a very short time to shoot. This means you want the scope on its lowest power setting. You want maximum FOV so that you can shoulder the gun and make a shot, If I have a 3-12 or 4-16 scope, ITS NOT sitting on 7x or 9x Its lowest power. And YES I check and no I don't normally forget it.

those middle range powers you guys fuss all over about the subtentions not matching at are a terrible place for your scope to be adjusted to when hiking, stalking, riding or walking in a hunting scenario. They are going to be a poor choice to make a quick shot with. I don't want to throw my gun up and have the scope set to 8x. I want freaking 3x for that. its meh. the FFP reticle is not going to be bold as I want it to be in crappy light, against a backdrop of quacking aspens or pines with sticks and branches laying randomly on its lowest power. If you simply aren't going to be using the scope at middle power AND also be needing the subtentions. WHY on earth do you want FFP. The fact is you don't . If you need the sub tensions, you should have more time to make the shot because its more distant. You also need the time to judge what animal you are shooting and how big. you also need to have the gun with a better rest of some sort. I carry shooting sticks for shots inside 350 yards. for longer shots, I use a pack of some sort. sometimes a harris bipod. But none the less when I am using those subtensions its a carefully taken shot, I am using a steady rest. and my scope is dialed to max power. I have subtensions that work like they should on max power. I also have a reticle that is bold and visable in low light. This stuff is pretty simple

if you are in a PRS match and shoot moving things at various distances IN EXCELLENT light I might add, FFP is probably what you want. it has no place in a hunting scope. It has a place in other shooting disciplines. this is a hunting forum last I looked.