Hi all, I’m switching this year from rifle hunting for deer to bow hunting. I have a pretty good compound bow and am pretty good with it in a variety of positions and stances. I have a tree stand set up on 25 acres of woods surrounded by corn. It seems to be a pretty popular bedding ground. I am a fairly accomplished rifle hunter. Assuming I have all the fundamentals of hunting down (being quiet in the woods, minimizing scent, correct positioning etc) what should I considerations should I make for bow hunting that I might have never thought of rifle hunting. As of right now I’m not using any calls mainly because I hear it’s far easier to break a hunt than make a hunt with them if you don’t know what you’re doing. I also don’t care about shooting a buck this year. What do I need to do in order to successfully transition from rifle to bow hunting?
Understand the wounding/killing mechanism of the broadhead completely. Only take the shot that gives the best chance for BOTH lungs to be deflated and your success rises exponentially. BE AWARE OF THE WIND! Enjoy the adventure!
Set stands closer to trails or food source than you are probably doing now. Having back cover is important when you are drawing for the shot. Biggest bit of advice is be patient. Every mistake seems exaggerated while bow hunting to me. You have to learn when you and move to position for the shot. You have to read body language and anticipate the shot. I aim a little differently with bow vs rifle. In my opinion once someone learns to be a decent bow hunter, gun hunting isn’t much of a challenge any longer.
Set stands closer to trails or food source than you are probably doing now. Having back cover is important when you are drawing for the shot. Biggest bit of advice is be patient. Every mistake seems exaggerated while bow hunting to me. You have to learn when you and move to position for the shot. You have to read body language and anticipate the shot. I aim a little differently with bow vs rifle. In my opinion once someone learns to be a decent bow hunter, gun hunting isn’t much of a challenge any longer.
this. Since bow hunting, its made me a much better rifle hunter in general. Entrance to and from stand will be much more important as will the wind. I assume you'll be hunting from a tree stand? Back cover is very important as well as having shooting lanes. I like to use scents when bow hunting and have had good success with tarsal glands.
Obviously you have to get them in closer and hopefully putting their attention on something besides you.
Patience, patience, patience...you're entering a waiting game that requires some self-discipline to be successful.
IMHO - Waiting for the right shot angle, and the right time to draw is probably the hardest mental skill to learn with a bow.
The broadhead has to cut enough blood circulation vessels to take the animal down quickly, and you can't cover a poor hit with a second shot, the first shot has to be the killing one.
Ranging - as soon as you can in the stand - range several fixed points around you, and get an idea of how far out an animal may be.
You need two hands to run the bow, and a third hand to range...knowing the distance before hand will take some of the pressure off of trying to figure it out when the animal is in front of you.
Shooting arrows for groups will tell you where the bow is shooting, and get you dialed in, but you need to be shooting single arrows at different ranges to see where you are shooting with no warm up.
I agree with the comment above, stay out of the bedroom, and hunt the routes in an out of the feeding areas.
Broadheads riding in the quiver, the vibrating, the removal - will cause them to dull over time - check them regularly for sharpness.
Get a couple of "stump" arrows - blunt tips or small game head - and shoot an arrow before you come down from the stand. Pick a leaf on the ground, a rotten stump, - and see how close you can hit - without ranging it first. This will help you get used to bow shooting from an elevated platform, which is different than being on the ground - and it will show you how stiff you can get from sitting for a period of time, especially if it's cold.
What is your draw poundage?
Some younger hunters ( I was one) tend to want to be "over-bowed" for what they are hunting. You're a rifle hunter - .270 vs .300 WM discussion - on whitetails...50 pounds of draw will kill as well as 70 pounds draw, for most hunters.
Some younger hunters ( I was one) tend to want to be "over-bowed" for what they are hunting. You're a rifle hunter - .270 vs .300 WM discussion - on whitetails...50 pounds of draw will kill as well as 70 pounds draw, for most hunters.
This right here is as real as it gets! If you can not shoot an end of arrows with your bow hand on the target and draw holding on the target you are trying to pull too much weight!
One other pretty critical mistake made all the time is moving your bow hand up or down to the target. The proper way to acquire the target is to bend at the waist.
One other pretty critical mistake made all the time is moving your bow hand up or down to the target. The proper way to acquire the target is to bend at the waist.
Another good shooting tip for sure. This changes your anchor point and/or sight picture. A little change in either and your POA/POI will be off.
Practice shooting from elevated stands if you hunt from them. Like MCH said...bend at the waist.
Wow! So much good advice I can’t respond to all of it. First to answer a few questions: I am hunting in a tree stand above where 3 major trails converge. I am shooting at 55# right now. I’m not strained pulling it back or staying on target. I can easily keep my draw for 30 seconds. I practice regularly from a ladder stand I have set up at my house. I really like the idea of having one “bad arrow” to shoot into the dirt at the end of each sit to see where I’m at and just practice shooting cold.
I found that bow hunting requires me to be higher in the tree than gun hunting. 15 -20 ft up in a tree is ok for a 50+ yd shot with a gun. And yes, I've had them come in closer, but when you have to raise and draw a bow, you are much more likely to get busted at that height. I find that 30-35 ft up in a tree is much better when bow hunting. Be sure to wear a safety harness.
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I found that bow hunting requires me to be higher in the tree than gun hunting. 15 -20 ft up in a tree is ok for a 50+ yd shot with a gun. And yes, I've had them come in closer, but when you have to raise and draw a bow, you are much more likely to get busted at that height. I find that 30-35 ft up in a tree is much better when bow hunting. Be sure to wear a safety harness.
30’-35’ feet is the ideal tree stand height for bow hunting!?!?!?
Thirty to thirty-five feet... ???
Originally Posted by 16penny
If you put Taco Bell sauce in your ramen noodles it tastes just like poverty
I really like the idea of having one “bad arrow” to shoot into the dirt at the end of each sit to see where I’m at and just practice shooting cold.
Forget doing that at your chosen stand location. No farting around, as the less time you spend there the better. Quiet in, quiet out. Control your scent. Control your impact in the area.
Take your practice shots where you normally practice, not where you have set an ambush.
I really like the idea of having one “bad arrow” to shoot into the dirt at the end of each sit to see where I’m at and just practice shooting cold.
Forget doing that at your chosen stand location. No farting around, as the less time you spend there the better. Quiet in, quiet out. Control your scent. Control your impact in the area.
Take your practice shots where you normally practice, not where you have set an ambush.
I tend to also agree about tree stand height. I keep mine high, animals catch movement very fast. The more you are out of their peripheral vision and line of sight the better.
Patience, patience, patience...you're entering a waiting game that requires some self-discipline to be successful.
IMHO - Waiting for the right shot angle, and the right time to draw is probably the hardest mental skill to learn with a bow.
The broadhead has to cut enough blood circulation vessels to take the animal down quickly, and you can't cover a poor hit with a second shot, the first shot has to be the killing one.
Ranging - as soon as you can in the stand - range several fixed points around you, and get an idea of how far out an animal may be.
You need two hands to run the bow, and a third hand to range...knowing the distance before hand will take some of the pressure off of trying to figure it out when the animal is in front of you.
Shooting arrows for groups will tell you where the bow is shooting, and get you dialed in, but you need to be shooting single arrows at different ranges to see where you are shooting with no warm up.
I agree with the comment above, stay out of the bedroom, and hunt the routes in an out of the feeding areas.
Broadheads riding in the quiver, the vibrating, the removal - will cause them to dull over time - check them regularly for sharpness.
Get a couple of "stump" arrows - blunt tips or small game head - and shoot an arrow before you come down from the stand. Pick a leaf on the ground, a rotten stump, - and see how close you can hit - without ranging it first. This will help you get used to bow shooting from an elevated platform, which is different than being on the ground - and it will show you how stiff you can get from sitting for a period of time, especially if it's cold.
What is your draw poundage?
Some younger hunters ( I was one) tend to want to be "over-bowed" for what they are hunting. You're a rifle hunter - .270 vs .300 WM discussion - on whitetails...50 pounds of draw will kill as well as 70 pounds draw, for most hunters.
Nicely said. I tend to use a lower poundage bow, because I am more accurate that at higher tension. I can add use ranging pins. I use gutter spikes, bright orange, and mark the distances while setting up the stand or blind. I have a spool of mason cord with a small washer every 5 yards, and a clip on the free end. Makes for fast quiet set up. I also often use a wire frame, photo realistic, doe decoy. Deer are often curious and the decoy takes thier attention. (Be careful what direction you aim your decoy, or you may actually draw attention to yourself). I do not call or make noise of any kind, but may use scent wafers of food, sex or fresh earth. And I would agree, stay out of the bedding area. Find food, water, and bedding, and set up between these points in the travel areas. Pick multiple spots for changes in the wind. That deer has a better nose than a bloodhound, and he/she will smell you when down wind of you. Hunt the wind.
An unemployed Jester, is nobody's Fool.
the only real difference between a good tracker and a bad tracker, is observation. all the same data is present for both. The rest, is understanding what you're seeing.
This is my second year hunting during the archery season on public land (but with a xbow). What's surprising to me is how many deer I'm seeing, including more bucks last season than in years of hunting the same ground with a rifle. They just behave much more naturally and predictably than they do after the pumpkins show up. Follow the advice from the up'n down bow guys about making the most of your opportunities, and you should prosper, especially if you're more into making meat than hanging big horns.
A crossbow doesn't require as much movement as a vertical one, and two of the four deer I've whacked so far have been from the ground; one from a tree seat, the other while walking out of the woods just before dark. By moving very slowly and when a deer is looking elsewhere, it is possible to raise a weapon and get a shot off, especially if you keep it directly in front of you to minimize the silhouette.
I found that bow hunting requires me to be higher in the tree than gun hunting. 15 -20 ft up in a tree is ok for a 50+ yd shot with a gun. And yes, I've had them come in closer, but when you have to raise and draw a bow, you are much more likely to get busted at that height. I find that 30-35 ft up in a tree is much better when bow hunting. Be sure to wear a safety harness.
30’-35’ feet is the ideal tree stand height for bow hunting!?!?!?
Thirty to thirty-five feet... ???
Not me! Not only does the thought of that scare the living crap out of me, it complicates things because it narrows the target area, even with a gun. I only go high enough to see well and get clear shooting lanes. Never believed in getting so high they can't smell me; wind and air currents are too fickle.
I found that bow hunting requires me to be higher in the tree than gun hunting. 15 -20 ft up in a tree is ok for a 50+ yd shot with a gun. And yes, I've had them come in closer, but when you have to raise and draw a bow, you are much more likely to get busted at that height. I find that 30-35 ft up in a tree is much better when bow hunting. Be sure to wear a safety harness.
30’-35’ feet is the ideal tree stand height for bow hunting!?!?!?
Thirty to thirty-five feet... ???
Not me! Not only does the thought of that scare the living crap out of me, it complicates things because it narrows the target area, even with a gun. I only go high enough to see well and get clear shooting lanes. Never believed in getting so high they can't smell me; wind and air currents are too fickle.
It isn't about them smelling you. Its about them catching your movement. It does not narrow the target area. Stand placement!!!!!!
We go 15' with hangers and 20' with ladder stands. Hang stand on the back or side away from trail if we are worried about concealment. Be safe and wear your harness.
I was a geometry dropout, but I'm pretty sure a deer in close to a 30' high stand is going to present a narrower target than from a 15' one unless their body is perfectly round At any rate, moving slowly and while a deer is looking elsewhere works well, unless you need a running start to draw a heavy bow.
Here, especially early in the season in heavy cover, 20 yards is a longish typical range. Killed some closer from low stands and on the ground.
At any rate, you're welcome to all those 30+ feet stands. I can't concentrate simultaneously on hunting and fervent prayer.
I was a geometry dropout, but I'm pretty sure a deer in close to a 30' high stand is going to present a narrower target than from a 15' one unless their body is perfectly round At any rate, moving slowly and while a deer is looking elsewhere works well, unless you need a running start to draw a heavy bow.
Here, especially early in the season in heavy cover, 20 yards is a longish typical range. Killed some closer from low stands and on the ground.
At any rate, you're welcome to all those 30+ feet stands. I can't concentrate simultaneously on hunting and fervent prayer.
A 6" circle, is still 6" at twenty or thirty yards from 20 feet to 30 feet! you are just aiming for a different angle through the animal. Knowing the kill zone from all angles is the key!
Clearly the stand position eclipsed you!!!!! Why would you put a stand that close to a trail?
I have no problems drawing any of my bows. Nor do I have a problem cancelling my position. But the fact of the matter still remains that animals see movement very very well! Taking away any advantage of that is never a bad thing. Using every trick in the books will help anyone kill more game.
Some locations won't allow for a high stand and that is fine. But if I can hunt it on the high side I am going to every time. For guys that are afraid of heights I get it, keep it in your comfort zone.
Sorry, I don't understand what "eclipsed" means with regard to deer stands. But again, here the cover where deer hang out is heavy, and close is the name of the game. Even if you can see them at a distance, the overhead foliage makes long shots tough because of the high trajectory. I expect that before long I'll be giving up treestands for good and hunt from the ground due to age. Pretty sure I'll continue to kill deer, as I've still-hunted up on my share over the years, as well as killed a good number from slightly elevated ground seats (not blinds) in hilly areas and the sides of ravines.
If high stands give you an advantage, real or perceived, have at it.
I was a geometry dropout, but I'm pretty sure a deer in close to a 30' high stand is going to present a narrower target than from a 15' one unless their body is perfectly round At any rate, moving slowly and while a deer is looking elsewhere works well, unless you need a running start to draw a heavy bow.
Here, especially early in the season in heavy cover, 20 yards is a longish typical range. Killed some closer from low stands and on the ground.
At any rate, you're welcome to all those 30+ feet stands. I can't concentrate simultaneously on hunting and fervent prayer.
A 6" circle, is still 6" at twenty or thirty yards from 20 feet to 30 feet! you are just aiming for a different angle through the animal. Knowing the kill zone from all angles is the key!
Clearly the stand position eclipsed you!!!!! Why would you put a stand that close to a trail?
I have no problems drawing any of my bows. Nor do I have a problem cancelling my position. But the fact of the matter still remains that animals see movement very very well! Taking away any advantage of that is never a bad thing. Using every trick in the books will help anyone kill more game.
Some locations won't allow for a high stand and that is fine. But if I can hunt it on the high side I am going to every time. For guys that are afraid of heights I get it, keep it in your comfort zone.
Not any circle in deer I shoot. Targets are oblong for vitals, not round. Unfortunately. And going up narrows the target to a degree no matter, since its not round, of course if your vitals are the heart only, yep fairly round. I get the idea, like shooting the brain shot, same target mostly, just center the sphere from whatever angle.
We can keep Larry Root and all his idiotic blabber and user names on here, but we can't get Ralph back..... Whiskey Tango Foxtrot, over....
As far as budget goes there are many bows used and new under $400 set up to get you started. Work to be proficient at 40 yards. I would recommend a 50-60 pound bow, especially if you have not shot bows alot as it will make practice easier and build confidence faster. If you already hunt you probably have most of the other equipment you need. Only difference is early season is warmer and drier than rifle usually. Land closures can be a problem. As far as drawbacks, other than range, I can't think of any.
I was a geometry dropout, but I'm pretty sure a deer in close to a 30' high stand is going to present a narrower target than from a 15' one unless their body is perfectly round At any rate, moving slowly and while a deer is looking elsewhere works well, unless you need a running start to draw a heavy bow.
Here, especially early in the season in heavy cover, 20 yards is a longish typical range. Killed some closer from low stands and on the ground.
At any rate, you're welcome to all those 30+ feet stands. I can't concentrate simultaneously on hunting and fervent prayer.
A 6" circle, is still 6" at twenty or thirty yards from 20 feet to 30 feet! you are just aiming for a different angle through the animal. Knowing the kill zone from all angles is the key!
Clearly the stand position eclipsed you!!!!! Why would you put a stand that close to a trail?
I have no problems drawing any of my bows. Nor do I have a problem cancelling my position. But the fact of the matter still remains that animals see movement very very well! Taking away any advantage of that is never a bad thing. Using every trick in the books will help anyone kill more game.
Some locations won't allow for a high stand and that is fine. But if I can hunt it on the high side I am going to every time. For guys that are afraid of heights I get it, keep it in your comfort zone.
Not any circle in deer I shoot. Targets are oblong for vitals, not round. Unfortunately. And going up narrows the target to a degree no matter, since its not round, of course if your vitals are the heart only, yep fairly round. I get the idea, like shooting the brain shot, same target mostly, just center the sphere from whatever angle.
I used a 6" circle because if the arrow is placed in that 6" circle its a dead deer. I never said the vitals were a circle. That circle that I speak of is actually more like a sphere and it is 6" weather at 20 or 30 feet high. Your arrow placement angle of attack will just be in a slightly different spot on that sphere. Animals are not flat paper targets, but even if it was a flat paper target that 6" circle is still 6" and again the difference being the angle of attack.
Getting seen or heard was the toughest thing for me to overcome with deer close enough for a compound bow. Not being able to find two of them was what made me quit bow hunting until I could use a crossbow. That transition seemed very much more like shorter range rifle hunting. Less movement and better sighting equipment for a better outcome in my case.
My other auto is a .45
The bitterness of poor quality is remembered long after the sweetness of low price has faded from memory
1) Stand placement - Stay “close” to the bedding area so you catch them in the sunlight just as the come back from food... too close to the food and it will still be dark, BUT don’t setup in the bedding area or you will blow it.
A) If the sun or sky is behind you from where the deer is you just screwed yourself, any move you make is extremely noticeable. The best way to fix this is to walk the deer trails and see what tree you cant see until you take a turn (tree behind trees as you approach)... those are the best ambush trees. I.e. walk you deer trails and look for your stand, if you can see it before you are in bow range it’s wrong. If you can make sure there are limbs directly behind you so you can blend in. BTW - 30 feet up is stupid... 12-14 feet on up is plenty unless you are in a bottom.
B) Buck trails are not deer runs... meaning Does take Deer runs... Buck trails are not normally apparent, but typically 20–50 feet Parrellel to the doe trail, typically in the transition boundary between whatever the does are eating, and the other woods / field..
C) How you get into your stand is EXTREMELY important... Cut across the least number of runs as possible Take a machete and cut anything that can touch you on the way in ...(brush/ limbs/ ....) NEVER EVER EVER EVER SPIT ... you can pee on a deers head in the stand, spit and you are DONE.
D) Hangers - put hangers on your tree for things you don’t want to fall off when you move / stand up. E). Harness - Climbing safety harness with leg loops, and have a descender rope along side yourself that you can also up to haul up your bow & bag. F). Stand scouting - Often you only get a shot at the big dog... so I will put a stand 40+ yards out where i can watch the main runs and them move my stand to where I want to kill stuff. G). Putting up / taking down your stand... throw a rope over a limb and use it to pull while you push it up in place, also use it to hold the stand up while you secure the stand. H). Trail tacks - to get in your stand at dark... make sure spray them with sent away
2). Equipment -
A) Start out with a spitfire or other expandable broadhead, they shoot like field points and it will lower the chances of a miss until you are really good at shooting the bow B). Grunt call - Get a good rubberized one, and where it on your neck... once you release an arrow hit the grunt... a deer with think they got poked by a buck and stop to see where he is. I have seen many a deer stop when I grunt them 2-3 times and they stop again, then lay down and pass out... that is a really good thing. C). Small binoc’s - You need to be able to see between trees to watch a deer you just put a stick through, better yet you need to know if there is a buck trailing that doe. D) Thumb behind your ear —. When you draw your bow with a release your hand is just behind you ear, take your thumb and put it behind your neck and use that to hold the bow back instead of your arm which will get tired. When the shot comes just pull back a bit with your arm and shoot - you can keep your bow drawn for a couple of minutes in this fashion so you get to draw as soon as you see the deer instead of waiting and getting busted.
E). Leafy camo is your friend, at least on your jacket...
3). Behavior (yours) when you get busted.. and you will.
Eat stuff if you get busted... If you are walking a lane and a deer comes out and stares at you, bend down and walk to a tree limb, grab it with your hand and visibility wiggle it like you are chewing the branch with you mouth so the deer can see it. In general deer thing... well he’s eating that, so apparently he doesn’t want to eat me... also Deer do this when they socialize .... if you do it with Grass, or a Tree and watch the deer, their tail will go down, and thier ears drop... often they will start walking directly to you so you have to be careful.
4). Weather
A) Cold cloud covered nights make the deer stay out longer, in fact they have to eat to stay warm so they move again after thier morning nap.=. Make sure you can stay out coat wise. B). Snow = finding buck trails... that aren’t apparent, so make sure you walk the place
I could go on for hours... I did the same thing but didn’t have anyone to teach me so these are hard learned...
Thanks for all the hints and advice. I ended up getting a buck last weekend. He came walking through about 35-40 yards out about 30 minutes before sunset. One shot, maybe looks a little low, but he was uphill of me so I think the shot was about perfect considering he dropped within 50 yards. I'm super excited to have him in the freezer and see the methods I used this year as highly repeatable to get another buck next year. Thanks again for all the help!
