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I've got a Berreta Loveless-designed drop point. The blade is hollow ground. Any idea what sharpening angle(s) I should use?

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18-20 degrees


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Somewhere between 15* - 20* depending upon blade specs and intended uses.


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AUS-8 at 58ish.

I'd profile to 20* on the Sharpmaker with the Medium ceramics, then switch to the Fine to finish.
Thereafter a few swipes as needed will maintain it as good as anything.


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Thanks, I will be using my Smith's #50281 electric sharpener (recommended by Eileen at Rifles and Recipes) where I can dial in the angles. Or is it an unspeakably tenderfoot thing to sharpen anything that says "Loveless" on the blade with a power sharpener?

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For me, kitchen knives 15*, hunting knives 20*... but having said that, I think way too much is made out of blade angle. Having a SHARP knife is the main thing.


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Originally Posted by Steven60
Thanks, I will be using my Smith's #50281 electric sharpener (recommended by Eileen at Rifles and Recipes) where I can dial in the angles. Or is it an unspeakably tenderfoot thing to sharpen anything that says "Loveless" on the blade with a power sharpener?


It's not an actual Loveless, so I wouldn't worry about that. However with that said, no way I'd use an electric grinder on my knives.


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Originally Posted by MOGC
no way I'd use an electric grinder on my knives.


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[/quote]It's not an actual Loveless, so I wouldn't worry about that. However with that said, no way I'd use an electric grinder on my knives.[/quote]

I used a Lansky for a while. The stones fill up with steel particles pretty quickly and I can't seem to get them back to their original cutting capability. The Lansky stones just don't seem to cut modern steels. I'm willing to re-learn sharpening by hand, if I could find a system that would let me control the angles and wouldn't take forever to put an edge on a blade, if for no other reason than I like doing things manually. The Lansky set now sits in a drawer and collects dust, at least till I donate it to the second-hand store. Why are power sharpeners bad and what's a good manual system?

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Nothing wrong with the Lansky or their stones. That IS a good manual system.
My nephew uses one a lot.

I use and Edge Pro instead, but the stones are not that different.

I clean my stones with water with some dish soap in it and a toothbrush.
You can float the crud out that way.

With oil stones you can float the crud out with light oil like WD 40,.

Modern steels are no problem for Lansky (or any decent) stones. You must keep the stones
clean and fresh no matter what material and method you use.

You may be a candidate for the Original Work Sharp, but it has its own idiosyncracies also.


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Originally Posted by michiganroadkill
You must keep the stones
clean and fresh no matter what material and method you use.


I completely agree. The only problem is that I can't get the stones clean. I used the Lansky oil per the instructions and cleaned them with Dawn (soaking for several hours) and scrubbing them with Scotchbrite pads, but the glaze just won't come off. I will give WD-40 a try I guess.

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How long did those stones get used without clean off?????

Try freshening up the stones surface with some fresh sand paper, say 80 grit or so.

Then use water with Dawn and scrub with a toothbrush. Once clean keep clean from blade to blade.

I would not use WD40 unless I was going to stay with oil. Otherwise stay with water and clean stones.


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These are great knives.

Grab one if you can...


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Originally Posted by michiganroadkill
Try freshening up the stones surface with some fresh sand paper, say 80 grit or so.

Then use water with Dawn and scrub with a toothbrush. Once clean keep clean from blade to blade.


Thank you; I will try that.

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Originally Posted by add
These are great knives.

Grab one if you can...


+1

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