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I bought my 1/2”-5/8” adapters from forum member john1187, they seem to be well machined parts. I’ve used this adapter with my 5/8-24 threaded 6.5mm can (SAS barricade) on 4 different tikka lites threaded 1/2”-28 with no problems whatsoever. These are 22-.243 cal rifles. It’s easy to visually check that your bore and suppressor are lined up properly prior to firing a new setup (just like manually bore sighting). You should check this whether using an adapter or not, a baffle strike due to a poor threading job would suck. Lockup has been solid as well, I’ve not had the suppressor come loose from firing or handling

To me the concern was more about muzzle wall thickness using 1/2” threads with a .264, 7mm, .30 cal bore than any worry about the adapter. This is the main issue that suppressor manufactures and some gunsmiths seem to be concerned about when threading sporter barrels. Formid, Dogshooter and jackmountain’s comments here make me think I shouldn’t worry so much about this issue. I may go ahead and thread my t3 lite 6.5 creed...

All that said I don’t think suppressor manufacturers like Thunderbeast and the many gunsmiths that caution against smaller thread diameters with larger bores are FOS. I’m thinking there’s some combination of round count, large capacity .30 cal like a .300wm, and small threads that would make something give (there’s gotta be a reason Barrett goes to the trouble to thread the FC muzzles 5/8”-24). Whether any of that is a real world concern for a guy setting up a Suppressed hunting rifle is another question.

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I have 2 different rifles I cut specifically for a suppressor one is a 308 one is a 243. They are both threaded 1/2x28 and I run adapters on both. I feel a 20” balances well but haven’t tried shorter. The 308 crosses the chrono with a 165 gamechanger, rl15, and lapua brass at 2775. Haven’t checked the 243 yet as I am still playing with some loads.

I am thinking of trying a 783 HB in 6.5 creed for grins and they come with a 16.5” barrel.

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Originally Posted by turkish
The SilencerCo Omega can be outfitted with direct thread mounts of different thread patterns, obviating the need for an adapter, if 1/2-28 threads on a lighter barrel are required.

Well, it sure CAN. laugh


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Originally Posted by Dogshooter
I’ve run a Harvester quite a bit, it has the option of interchangeable back plates too. On sporter weight barrels, I prefer the adapter over the direct 1/2x28 thread... as it feels more solid.


Thats really good to know. Its how I will set mine up.
Thx, R


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Originally Posted by Dogshooter
I’ve run a Harvester quite a bit, it has the option of interchangeable back plates too. On sporter weight barrels, I prefer the adapter over the direct 1/2x28 thread... as it feels more solid.

Interesting. What’s UNsolid about the direct thread and fewer “connections,” do you think?

Last edited by turkish; 10/25/19.
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The step down from can, to adapter, to barrel seems to create a more ridged connection on the sporter barrel than the direct thread.


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I'll likely be doing the 1/2x28 to 5/8x24 adapter when I get the next can in about a year. Any need for threadlocker on the barrel threads, or conversely anti-seize?

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I am looking at threading all my 358 caliber rifles. Not all will be practical. But even the 673 in 350 Rem Mag can benefit in recoil reduction and noise reduction. And subsonic loads can be developed. Long for caliber bullets at slow speeds (velocity) can be hard to stop. What was the maximum range of the 45-70-500? I have forgotten how many yards that factoid would be. 3,000 + or _ ? Be Well, RZ.


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6.5 Creed with 20” Bartlein #3 barrel threaded 5/8x24 for the TBAC CB.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]


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That’ll do.


Originally Posted by 16penny
If you put Taco Bell sauce in your ramen noodles it tastes just like poverty
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Originally Posted by kingston
That’ll do.

Yah, seems that'd work.


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Originally Posted by Dogshooter
The step down from can, to adapter, to barrel seems to create a more ridged connection on the sporter barrel than the direct thread.

Could this have something to do with the characteristics of your barrel threads (how they were cut)?


Originally Posted by 16penny
If you put Taco Bell sauce in your ramen noodles it tastes just like poverty
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Originally Posted by kingston
Originally Posted by Dogshooter
The step down from can, to adapter, to barrel seems to create a more ridged connection on the sporter barrel than the direct thread.

Could this have something to do with the characteristics of your barrel threads (how they were cut)?


No... I think it has more to do with the “shoulder” left on a sporter barrel at the back of the threads.


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Originally Posted by Kimber7man
6.5 Creed with 20” Bartlein #3 barrel threaded 5/8x24 for the TBAC CB.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]


K7M
I covet your rigs! Every time I see one it looks and specs out to perfection. 😎

Marty,
Can you talk about you scope? I’m not familiar with it?

Thanks,
Mark

Last edited by Beaver10; 10/27/19.

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Premier Reticles is the precursor to Tangent Theta. That’s a 3-15x.


Originally Posted by 16penny
If you put Taco Bell sauce in your ramen noodles it tastes just like poverty
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Originally Posted by Kimber7man
6.5 Creed with 20” Bartlein #3 barrel threaded 5/8x24 for the TBAC CB.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]


I thought with a Bartlein 3 contour, you only have enough meat for 5/8x24 threads out to 18”? With the 3b contour, you can get 5/8x24 at any length. Am I misinformed?


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Originally Posted by Rhettsker
Originally Posted by Kimber7man
6.5 Creed with 20” Bartlein #3 barrel threaded 5/8x24 for the TBAC CB.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]


I thought with a Bartlein 3 contour, you only have enough meat for 5/8x24 threads out to 18”? With the 3b contour, you can get 5/8x24 at any length. Am I misinformed?


You’re not misinformed, but there may be some room to fudge (depending on who you ask, I’m not a gunsmith and I’d always say defer to a professional)

The typical recommendation is that you need .725” muzzle diameter for 5/8” threads with a proper shoulder of .050”
.725” - .625 (5/8” major thread diameter) = .100” left /2 equals a .050” shoulder all the way around.

In the past I’ve had a Shilen 4 and Brux 4 threaded 5/8” at approx 20”. These contours are close to a Bart 3. IIRC the muzzle diameters were .715-.720”. Worked fine with my suppressor, just didn’t quite have the minimum shoulder left that the folks at Thunderbeast would like to see. Technically speaking, you could have anything over .630” or so threaded 5/8”, you just wouldn’t have a shoulder left for the suppressor to lock up against.




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Walt,

Yes, i think you are correct. With a 6.5 caliber and a 1” bbl shank, a #3 probably works finished at 20”.


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Can't understand why anyone would think you need a bunch of shoulder. Whatever.


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Originally Posted by MtnBoomer
Can't understand why anyone would think you need a bunch of shoulder. Whatever.


Ties back into my comment on the adapter feeling more solid than going straight 1/2x28 attachment. The adapter provides additional “shoulder” for the can to index on.

Do you shoot suppressors Boomer?


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