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What's the most efficient path to long range shooting with rimfire?

I'd like to hang some steel out to 500 yds on my place and hopefully hear some sounds.

I'm not Vudoo ready yet but please help with rifle, optics, etc recommendations.

Thanks in advance to all.

BBQ


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Very hard to do in my estimation, ANY 22LR is going to have a hard time hitting at 500 yards. The bullet drop and more importantly the wind will be an issue. I have trouble at 100yards with wind drift. The rifle is capable, factory guaranty is .75 for 5 10 shot strings at 100 yards averaged.

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The path is properly traveled one step at a time.

Accurate rifle
Quality ammo
Parallax adjustable scope, pick your reticle and power
100
200
300
400
500


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I can only add 2 things to Digital Dan's list

1. Ammo TESTING. Only your rifle can tell you what it likes. Equipment and ammo are plenty important, but flushing out the ammo your gun likes is a big advantage.

2. Practice! Only you can learn for yourself how to get and manage a proper weld, natural hold, read the wind, manage your trigger (and know it intimately), etc. Maybe you can pick up how to shoot between your heartbeats, and some other skills.

Of course there are more, smaller tips (and plenty that I don't know about I'm sure) but that will get you started.

ps - maybe you can set up some really big pieces of cardboard at first, just so you can see your POI at unfamiliar ranges. Spray it white, that kind of thing...


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In my opinion the cheapest route would be ...
Used anschutz 54 in good shape can be found for 1k these days with not too much trouble

25 MOA rail from DIP products

Burris signature rings with inserts

SWFA 10x

Ammo will be A big factor but that’s where you can experiment quite a bit at shorter ranges. What your rifle likes best may surprise you.


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My 10-22T does pretty well out to 200 with a 4x Leupold (And heavy duplex reticle, believe it or not.). Beyond that things go to pot quickly. I’ve never gotten serious about it - just screwing around on the range. But it can be done. CCI Velocitors. Have a video of my son going 10/10 on the 3” steel at 100 yards when he was 9 years old

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It should be kept in mind at what range the particular 22lr ammo you do use goes subsonic. So the if the most expensive, best stuff you use goes sub at the longer range you plan to shoot, it will all be for naught.

Most standard velocity target stuff, is low velocity, so if you shoot usable groups at the longer ranges your in the ball park. Realizing, of course that extreme spread in velocity, will be the big enemy. (on the controllable end, off course wind is the big one)
CCI Standard Velocity is a good starting point.

Also rimfires are very sensitive to temp change affecting the primer mix, which adds an additional unknown to the mix. Keeping your loaded mags, and rounds in a padded ammo bag all at the same temp. helps uniformity.

Currently using a Ruger precision rimfire with a Diamondback 4-16 FFP on clays to 350 yds. Currently in excess of 5000 rds. its still going strong.

also a Ruger American rimfire with a Diamondback 4-12. outstanding turrets.

Neither of these scopes have parallax adjustment which isn't missed as the cone of fire is 4moa at 300 yds., the guns have cheek risers which center the eye with the optical axis of the scope.
Ringing steel and bottles is an accuracy event not a precision event.

Also have a Kimber SVT, and various Savages.

Since the ballistic drop and wind drift is similar to a 308 178 gr at 1000 yds. (in ratios)

Now is the time to get familiar with drop tables. (pull downs)

JBM Ballistic program is free and they have most 22lr in their pull down choices. give it a try.


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Originally Posted by Etoh
It should be kept in mind at what range the particular 22lr ammo you do use goes subsonic. So the if the most expensive, best stuff you use goes sub at the longer range you plan to shoot, it will all be for naught.

Most standard velocity target stuff, is low velocity, so if you shoot usable groups at the longer ranges your in the ball park. Realizing, of course that extreme spread in velocity, will be the big enemy. (on the controllable end, off course wind is the big one)
CCI Standard Velocity is a good starting point.

Also rimfires are very sensitive to temp change affecting the primer mix, which adds an additional unknown to the mix. Keeping your loaded mags, and rounds in a padded ammo bag all at the same temp. helps uniformity.

Currently using a Ruger precision rimfire with a Diamondback 4-16 FFP on clays to 350 yds. Currently in excess of 5000 rds. its still going strong.

also a Ruger American rimfire with a Diamondback 4-12. outstanding turrets.

Neither of these scopes have parallax adjustment which isn't missed as the cone of fire is 4moa at 300 yds., the guns have cheek risers which center the eye with the optical axis of the scope.
Ringing steel and bottles is an accuracy event not a precision event.

Also have a Kimber SVT, and various Savages.

Since the ballistic drop and wind drift is similar to a 308 178 gr at 1000 yds. (in ratios)

Now is the time to get familiar with drop tables. (pull downs)

JBM Ballistic program is free and they have most 22lr in their pull down choices. give it a try.

Awesome, thank you.


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Originally Posted by Certifiable
In my opinion the cheapest route would be ...
Used anschutz 54 in good shape can be found for 1k these days with not too much trouble

25 MOA rail from DIP products

Burris signature rings with inserts

SWFA 10x

Ammo will be A big factor but that’s where you can experiment quite a bit at shorter ranges. What your rifle likes best may surprise you.

This, plus what others said.

Downside of a traditional Anschutz for long range is the lack of an adjustable comb on most models.

The new Bergara .22 might be worth a look.

Paul


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I'm of the thought that while effective at closer range than most, CCI SV is not the best ammo for high precision. Every style of European match ammo I've shot in 4 RF rifles shames it...badly. HV ammo is a non-starter for long range.


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Originally Posted by DigitalDan
I'm of the thought that while effective at closer range than most, CCI SV is not the best ammo for high precision. Every style of European match ammo I've shot in 4 RF rifles shames it...badly. HV ammo is a non-starter for long range.


Long range 22 shooting is not a precision event, or cold bore first shot kill. statistically the advantage over at least the +1000000 some odd rounds that I've shot out of 20 or so different guns over a period of 50 years does not warrant the price difference.

The BC of most 22 rounds is somewhat lower than a freight car, and wind is the big determination. (and thats not saying anything about "nose" damage occurring during packaging) I shoot in open country western plains, not a gun ranges with berms etc. Winds change frequently in speed and direction. Any advantage given by match ammo is taken away by a bad wind call.

Biggest advantage of shooting 22 is mechanical and educational, correct gun placement, (shoot prone mostly) correct grip, correct bolt movement (not "loosing" target) etc.

Anschutz is nice, and Vudoo nice no doubt.

but if Im going to that cost level, I go to a GAP .223, or similar


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I respectfully disagree with your assessment on ammo. Same gun, same range, and my other RF shooters perform the same with each style of ammo. One thing in common with the foreign ammo tends to be low velocity spreads. That is a very significant factor at distance. The Wolf/SK Standard typically runs in the mid teens to low 20's for 10 shots. CCI SV runs a bit more, typically in the 50's.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Agree that wind is the big issue in this game.


I am..........disturbed.

Concerning the difference between man and the jackass: some observers hold that there isn't any. But this wrongs the jackass. -Twain


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Not disagreeing with you on accuracy, as far as precision and shooting groups go.

Just saying that a 4moa cone of fire at 300 yards is all you need, shooting 22s a very wide spectrum hobby, folks starting into long range 22 are confused by the some of the things used in precision events that aren't necessary for them to have fun and learn some long range tools.

some folks into long range 22 tend to carry things over from 50 and 100 yd bullseye that aren't necessary. If you they want to use expensive guns and ammo, great their choice.

but you can have all the expensive toys/ammo and if you aren't using good technique. you'll never know the difference.

how much difference extreme spread in velocity is seen depends on time of flight, and target size. If I just released a shot and know that my technique was good, but the shot was low or high, I know it was the velocity spread.

my 1000 yd handholds in bigger calibers run around 10 to 20 fps in spread, any thing more shows up pretty fast. 50 fps in 22 at 300 isn't a big deal with a 4moa cone of fire.


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The difference matters even less if the event is run against time.


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Thanks for all the help gentlemen. I've learned a lot already and haven't even bought a gun!

I'm leaning towards a RPR with a Vortex DB of some sort. Trying to hit a value price point on everything so as to stay married.

Open to any critiques or suggestions on weaponry.

Thanks again to all,

BBQ


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What’s your budget?

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Under a $1K for sure.


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SWFA currently has some Sample List sale 3-15 for $519 that will do everything you need and then some.


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The RPR is a VERY poor "choice" and the vortex schittier yet. The 3-15x's don't have enough erector travel. Hint.

Think 10x MQ Fixed Fhuqker and it's 40+ Mil's of erector and at least 70 MOA of inclination. I wouldn't fhuqking linger. Hint.

[Linked Image from imagizer.imageshack.com]

A S/S RAR in a Boyd's,thrashes the RPR in all facets. Hint.

[Linked Image from imagizer.imageshack.com]

Lose the lever and re-spring. Hint.

[Linked Image from imagizer.imageshack.com]
[Linked Image from imagizer.imageshack.com]
[Linked Image from imagizer.imageshack.com]
[Linked Image from imagizer.imageshack.com]

Etoh is fhuqking CLUELESS.

Hint......................


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Stick is just being kind today

The lever change out is an excellent way to go if your inclined ss well as the Boyds stock

Stick doesnt like holdover combined with turret twisting
Preferring moa rails and erector travel

I bet he has other combinations that work well if you ask him nice


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