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Nothing you said is wrong, but you base it on a lot of if's. I've actually done it.
I have a min spec chamber.
I mentioned that loaded ammo is within SAAMI spec.
We are talking about Lapua brass which as you mentioned is not max sized.
I select bushing size based on desired neck tension, not chamber dimensions. If my chamber was larger by just 002", going larger would leave me with zero neck tension.

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What does your Lapua brass mic out to prior to (or after) resizing? What's the neck of your fired .280 AI brass?

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Doesnt have to know what it mics out at neck one down load a bullet and see what the neck dia. is with loaded bullet that will tell you.

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Any information would be useful. He claims to have a min-spec chamber, but I question if that's true because if so he would be at zero clearance starting with .014 wall brass. Either the Lapua brass is very thin, or his chamber's not as small as he thinks.

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I took a different route. Jon R. Sundra always used Winchester nickle plated brass for his 7 JRS, a sort of Gibbs like short neck blown out 280. I got around 500 cases at a close out bargain sale. I think the myths and misconceptions about nickle plated brass helped reduce the price. He always wrote that it had the highest capacity of any of the cases he tested.

The only thing I have done differently is to run either a stainless steel brush or one covered in 0000 steel wool inside the necks to remove any loose or extra plating. The only issue I have had is when I over annealed a batch and lost about three cases due to separation at the shoulder. I am only on about my 6th loading on the first bag but seems to be holding up fine, no trimming and so far no shoulder bump or FL re-sizing needed but will do this anyway on the next loads to head off and cambering issues.

Other rifles I have gone the Lapua route with a lessor number of cases. If you wanted cheep I would look into once fired LC 30-06 brass. You could save enough to get a hydraulic form dye if you wanted to save barrel life and components. I also used some 6.5x65 RWS brass and it was excellent even if the head dimension is undersized.

Last edited by Tejano; 10/21/19.

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It’s not complicated. Size just enough to ham the bolt closed on the lapua -06 brass. Load a bit low and shoot them. Don’t be surprised by good accuracy while forming.


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Hmmm, I sort of have the opinion now that Llama Bobs #'s don't lie. I haven't had any issues but I get where he's going with it and now rethinking things. My ammo is in spec but it doesn't leave much room for bullet release and/or variation. Anyway, I'm going to delete my posts above, not because I have an issue eating my words, but just because I don't want anyone following my advice on the topic for now.

Looks like it's too late to edit my earlier posts.

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Nosler brass is excellent and what I use now. As a bonus it is properly headstamped 280 Ack. Imp. For years I fireformed Remington brass with great results, I just had to cull a few. I always fireformed new brass only and followed the instructions in the Nosler reloading manual. I don't have any experience with Hornady brass in 280.


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Originally Posted by Ackleyman
Nosler brass is excellent and what I use now. As a bonus it is properly headstamped 280 Ack. Imp. For years I fireformed Remington brass with great results, I just had to cull a few. I always fireformed new brass only and followed the instructions in the Nosler reloading manual. I don't have any experience with Hornady brass in 280.


How many loadings do you get?


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6-7 before I start seeing split necks, sometimes more. I'm to lazy to anneal cases or I would probably get a few more.


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Originally Posted by Remington280
I ordered some 280AI Nosler brass for now but still curious about using the Lapua 06' brass . Anybody care to detail the process how they use it? Like said above I have read where it would be too short.


take 30-06 brass and run it into your 280ai full length size die. Take a moderate book load and fire. Good for off hand practice and the reward is a fully formed 280ai brass. It is a bit short but no biggy.

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Loaded up some Nosler brass with several different powder combos with 140 Nosler AB. I found IMR4831, RL22 and N165 all to be pretty accurate. I did try some factory Nosler 160 AB and they shoot excellent also. My 140 grain loads shot right around .5 moa which is excellent for the recoil. I tend not to shoot great with higher recoiling rifles.

Looks like my load will be

Nosler brass
140 grain Nosler Accubond
RL-22 63 grains
210's


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Originally Posted by Llama_Bob
Nosler if you value your time. Hornady, sort, and sell the leftovers if you want minimum $.


Hmmmm.........

The softest brass I've ever encountered was 243 and 270 Nosler. The best at at non-premium prices has been Hornady in recent times.


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Originally Posted by alpinecrick
Originally Posted by Llama_Bob
Nosler if you value your time. Hornady, sort, and sell the leftovers if you want minimum $.


Hmmmm.........

The softest brass I've ever encountered was 243 and 270 Nosler. The best at at non-premium prices has been Hornady in recent times.

Agree , add 260 to the list .

Nosler across the board bullets/brass/ammo is WAY over priced .
I use nosler 280AI brass only because i bought it on sale at cabelas years ago on sale - about $50/50ct. . Only bought it for the convience of not fireforming . Priced at $85.34 = $1.71 per case what a joke . I don't buy anything nosler not even the seconds at shooters pro shop <-- because even there the rejects aren't worth the price .

Sierra has joined nosler in expensive bullet race - none of their products come in my door .

Last edited by ol_mike; 11/08/19.

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