Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Rifles Any recommendations for rebarreling a X-Bolt?

I bought a X-Bolt locally with the intention of rebarreling it to 358 Winchester. Is there any one shop or person who specializes in the X-Bolt or Browning in general?

Ammo will be the factory Hornady Custom 200gr SP Interlock.

I am thinking 14" twist and initially 22" on the barrel. I want to see the balance before I go shorter. I read several threads and most are in the 19" - 22" with 20" seeming to be the favorite length.

Thanks

Depending on what cal the donor is, you might also be able to rebore it to 358 Win., which might save you a few bucks. JES does good work, quickly. Others could prob help you better with a rebarrel, but I believe Shaen has done some excellent rebarrel work as does LRI.

I wouldn’t be scared to maybe 1:12 it, JIC you look into the >250s at some point or someone pops up with some long-ish 35s. Should still shoot down to 180s just fine....then again, 14 May b3 fine. Can’t recall for sure. JES would be the most efficient route.

1:12 on my .358 at 20”. I shoot copper bullets so I prefer the faster twist.

If they are anything like Abolts the barrels have loctite on them, and the lug is glued to the barrel so you have to heat them up before removing the barrel.

Other than that it’s a straight up barrel replacement.

I have had two Abolts rebarreled and neither Smith charged me more for the labor to pull the barrel. I have read how hard they are but neither Smith said a thing and just did the work. Does anyone actually know if the locktite is true or is it an old wives tale?

The smith that threaded my X-Bolt barrel said it was no big deal to pull it off, he actually said my Kimber that he did at the same time was much more of a bear.

The Loc-tite is true but it's no big deal. Occasionally, there is a problem with the threads galling when the barrel is removed; generally on stainless model only. GD

Well, I don't think this 243 will make it to 358, I will call JES again on Monday

Thanks Guys

I have a Sako that started life as a .243Win. Jes rebored it to .358Win.

I have a Sako that started life as a .243Win. JES rebored it to .358Win.

Stainless action with a Stainless barrel is one of the problems, gauling. When the gauing starts during barrel removal, the threads will be torn up in the action. Ruger 77 mark II's are the same. Ruger will tell you that they never intended for their actions to ever be re barreled by anyone but them, for this very reason.

I had a Browning Stainless stalker that I shot the barrel out of. I sent it to Pac Nor and the gunsmith called me saying that when he started to unscrew the action, if the gauling started, he was just going to screw the thing back together and send it back to me, all liability was on me making the decision. The barrel unscrewed without a hitch and the new barrel shoots incredible.

Today, I consider Browning Stainless a throw away when they are shot out.

My Remington 700 started out as a 243, JES did that rebore for me on 2 rifles. Very pleased with both. Shoot 220 flat nose speers or 250 gr sierras. If I was going to shoot 180's i would just stick with a 308.
I had him cut it down to 18.5 inch barrel too, it's a woods round and for it's intended use it doesn't need the extra velocity but it shoot be extra handy and maneuverable. Inside 200 yards it's a hammer.