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Joined: Sep 2004
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I was going to get a Timnney trigger for a sporterized Spanish Mauser 93 I have, as it still have it's old two stage military trigger and safety. The gal from Trimney requested I send some photos of my trigger assembly to my Spanish model 93 as she stated some Spanish model 93's can take their triggers while other 93 trigger assembly were designed differently. I sent them the pictures and they stated their Timney triggers wouldn't work on my particular model of Spanish 93. Now withall that said, my question is have any of you ever heard of two different styles of coming from the Spanish Mauser factory with the 93's?


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I believe the pre-98 Mausers need to be converted to "cock-on-opening" configuration before a Timney style trigger will work Brownell's used to sell the cocking piece with instructions on how to modify the back of the bolt for that conversion. Does your original trigger have a stud that sticks up through a hole in the receiver and fits into a slot in the bottom of the bolt? That was a safety feature of the Spanish Mausers to prevent the trigger from being pulled if the bolt was not fully closed.
Jerry


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You can do some work on that trigger.
It is easy.
Plenty of good info out their on it.
Thought about replacing my trigger.

Spent a couple of hours watching various vids .
Did the work and it was fun to do for a small tinkering around project.
Improved my Kar 98 2 stage trigger ALOT....

Wealth of info out their to be had.
Stuff gunsmiths charge ya money to do, like it is some aura and mystifying trade secrets only they can do.

You aint got nothing to lose and you can still install a aftermarket trigger if not happy.
Take out and reinstall one pin and tighten down a front set screw on most of the replacement triggers, tinker with adjustments on em or just get one preset to whatever #.

JMO and YMMV

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Modifying a Mauser trigger isn't as straightforward as it appears. I've been building custom Mauser based sporters for over 40 years. Installing an aftermarket trigger sometimes involves changing or modifying the cocking piece to allow a single stage trigger to reset properly after the safety is engaged and released. Be sure the end result you get doesn't create the deadly dangerous possibility of a negligent discharge.
Jerry


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Some of em, you also have to inlett the stock area in the trigger to install.
Specially ones with thumb safeties.
Not hard or mysterious work to accomplish if you are mechanically adept and have common sense.
Extra cocking peices can be found and they are inexpensive.
For trail and error fitting if needed, cause you cant put back what you took away.
Cocking kits are readily avaiable and understandable.
Safety testing ie bolt slam, butt stock bounce test, safety function and cycling testing all should be done with a dummy round or with plain primed brass only.

Some are fools doing their own work.
(Gawd knows many of us have seen bubba stuff.)
Some pay others to do it for them.

I fall into neither catagory.

If a person has no experience or aptitude, then yes indeed they need to go to a gunsmith.


Kinda like the kid that bought the U.S.S Arizona model battleship and it came out looking like a floating P 51 on LSD instead.

Yep that person probably should go see a gunsmith for projects.

LOL!!!

IC B2

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SlideA,

I have one of the Dayton-Traistar kits that has the parts and instructions to convert the 93-94-95-96 to cock on opening and includes an adj trigger.
Hope someone here has some first-hand experience with these and provides some advise if you are interested in it. As new, complete. Maybe also someone has a recommendation on value. I was going to convert one of the 1916 Oviedos, but never got done.

Problem though: I have a gang of kids/grandkids coming in for the week si it may be a week or so to respond to questions.

Last edited by Dons1; 11/22/19.
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I have a “Bold” trigger on my 93. It’s been a long time so the details are fuzzy but it required a good bit of fitting.


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