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I just wipe the brass down, and seat the rounds long.
Long enough it is obviously unworkable. Then just prior to use seat the bullet correctly.
I don't know why this has become an issue, but it definitely is. If pressures appear to jump , I will seat the bullet deeper into the neck .There is a audible' pop' .
I don't tumble the cases- never have and clean the necks sparingly. My experience

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Originally Posted by Rodell
Originally Posted by cra1948
The big problem is not shooting up your loaded ammo fast enough.


Definitely a problem. I load enough for sight-in and then to take on the hunt. Invariably I have a bunch left over, but not enough for the next hunt! These "sticky" ones were loaded in mid-2016, so they weren't THAT old.

When I wet tumble, I use a little armor-all car wash and wax as my detergent. Apparently it does NOT leave enough residue to prevent the sticky problem. I did like the 300 fps higher velocity, who knows what the pressure was. They were also really, really accurate.

I'm going to pull everything I have and start over. I need to have some loads ready at any time.

I wonder how the factories prevent this problem? JB?


Really, really accurate and a 300 fps increase using a little Armor-All wash and wax ?

Yeah, right.


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I emailed Federal once, asking what they do to prevent cold weld in factory ammo. The response was basically a non-answer.


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Originally Posted by Rodell
I'm going to pull everything I have and start over.


You don't need to pull. Simply seat them the slightest bit deeper, just enough to hear them "pop" so that the weld is broken. Then go shoot them up.

Then be sure not to clean the inside of the necks, leaving the powder residue intact. You will eliminate your problem.

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Originally Posted by RiverRider
I emailed Federal once, asking what they do to prevent cold weld in factory ammo. The response was basically a non-answer.

I'll take a guess, what the hell. When you draw brass or swage bullets you need a lubricant. Just clean off the bulk of it with a tumble in clean media. Which I read about a bullet manufacturer (Sierra?). I remember because a thorough cleaning made moly adhere better.


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Which explains a lot.
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Originally Posted by nighthawk
a thorough cleaning made moly adhere better.

Absolutely, you need to degrease. I wash with a mix of Orange Glow and Dawn.

Humidity is a no no as well.

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I had some old oxidized bullets and cleaned them up with Never Dull and they haven't oxidized any further or cold welded. Not sure what is in Never Dull but there was enough left on the bullets to prevent oxidation. It would be easy enough to throw in a wad of Never Dull if you were dry tumbling.


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The inside of my cases are clean, but I molly coat all of my bullets. No problems shooting ammo I loaded 2 years ago.

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So, I got out all of my 300 Weatherby loads starting from 2015 and pulled the bullets. All of them.

Pretty much everything that was more than 2 years old had some of the bullets welded. I stressed the press getting some of them out, and then the next one would come easily (similar to the brand new loads). Clearly a problem and clearly more than a few cartridges. I don't know why some did and some did not "weld". Given the increased pressure and velocity I saw with the welded ones, I'm glad I cleaned them out. I don't need to be a test pilot.

All of these were Barnes TTSX bullets of varying weights. I wonder if the Barnes bullet material is more likely to weld than some of the alloys? An email query to Barnes about welding with new brass went unanswered.

I'm clearly going to have to coat the necks or the bullets as I rebuild my stock. I need to figure out a consistent method.


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Copper bullets were more likely to weld and sooner than gilded metal bullets in my experience. Even some bullets like Swift A-Frames and Kodiak that are gilded but seem to have a higher percentage of copper were more prone to weld. Ammo that has been in airplanes also was more prone. I guess they got de-pressured and then when they normalized pressure they took in some humidity. Motor mica definitely helped to reduce the cold welding or corrosion. Same for Hornaday One Shot lube.

I am definitely going to check my older rounds.


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Has anyone tried simply spraying the bullets themselves with Hornady OneShot to prevent welding?

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Originally Posted by 79S
I have had no issues wet tumbling...

I shoot dirty brass.... LOL. Clean brass is a waste, OTHER than trying to find it back on the ground from an AR or the like....


We can keep Larry Root and all his idiotic blabber and user names on here, but we can't get Ralph back..... Whiskey Tango Foxtrot, over....
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Originally Posted by Rodell
So, I got out all of my 300 Weatherby loads starting from 2015 and pulled the bullets. All of them.

Pretty much everything that was more than 2 years old had some of the bullets welded. I stressed the press getting some of them out, and then the next one would come easily (similar to the brand new loads). Clearly a problem and clearly more than a few cartridges. I don't know why some did and some did not "weld". Given the increased pressure and velocity I saw with the welded ones, I'm glad I cleaned them out. I don't need to be a test pilot.

All of these were Barnes TTSX bullets of varying weights. I wonder if the Barnes bullet material is more likely to weld than some of the alloys? An email query to Barnes about welding with new brass went unanswered.

I'm clearly going to have to coat the necks or the bullets as I rebuild my stock. I need to figure out a consistent method.


Hunting stuff never really matters much to me, but on target stuff for matches if I was worried about it, then I'd load like 5000 rounds and leave them all long seated. Then as we got to using em just seat the rest of the way and shoot at the next match.


We can keep Larry Root and all his idiotic blabber and user names on here, but we can't get Ralph back..... Whiskey Tango Foxtrot, over....
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Originally Posted by rost495
Originally Posted by 79S
I have had no issues wet tumbling...

I shoot dirty brass.... LOL. Clean brass is a waste, OTHER than trying to find it back on the ground from an AR or the like....



Or, a matter of pride in one's personal craft. No reason to wash your pick up either.


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I also take pride in not cleaning my brass - never saw the point of doing that except to make it shiny for the sake of making it shiny. Does it affect case life - no, does it make it easier to detect cracks / incipient head separation - no, does it make it easier to find the brass in the dirt - no.


Originally Posted by mauserand9mm
Originally Posted by mauserand9mm
Originally Posted by Raspy
Whatever you said...everyone knows you are a lying jerk.

That's a bold assertion. Point out where you think I lied.

Well?
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Originally Posted by DakotaDeer
Has anyone tried simply spraying the bullets themselves with Hornady OneShot to prevent welding?


This works like a charm and is so easy to do. Not sure how old the oldest loads I have that got this treatment but easily 10 years old and no problems.


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Originally Posted by mauserand9mm
I also take pride in not cleaning my brass - never saw the point of doing that except to make it shiny for the sake of making it shiny. Does it affect case life - no, does it make it easier to detect cracks / incipient head separation - no, does it make it easier to find the brass in the dirt - no.



I wash it to get any grit/dust off it, but otherwise like you I don't see any point in making it shiny. Not only does it not make it work better, but the patina a case develops is actually slightly protective. I see no good reason for adding a process step, time and cost to do no more than remove that. Same goes for cleaning residue out of primer pockets, another process step for which I've found no benefit.

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Originally Posted by Tejano
Originally Posted by DakotaDeer
Has anyone tried simply spraying the bullets themselves with Hornady OneShot to prevent welding?


This works like a charm and is so easy to do. Not sure how old the oldest loads I have that got this treatment but easily 10 years old and no problems.


I spray the case necks inside and out with One Shot before sizing, and leave the stuff on through charging the cases and seating the bullets. It (plus a certain amount of powder residue in my case necks) seems to do the trick to avoid any noticeable diffusion bonding, and without adding the step of spritzing the bullets with the stuff.

I wipe it off the finished rounds, which gives me the opportunity to give each round a quick once-over before putting it up ready for use, or storage.

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Crank your seating die down 0.010", break the weld and move on with your life.

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Originally Posted by rost495
Originally Posted by 79S
I have had no issues wet tumbling...

I shoot dirty brass.... LOL. Clean brass is a waste, OTHER than trying to find it back on the ground from an AR or the like....


I have 4-5 gallon buckets of 223/5.56 brass and I wet tumble it so I can sort it and get lc and r-p brass. But I pretty much clean all my brass anyhow.. some are lazy or don't have the equipment to clean there brass, me I have the equipment to do it so why not clean it.


Originally Posted by Bricktop
Then STFU. The rest of your statement is superflous bullshit with no real bearing on this discussion other than to massage your own ego.

Suckin' on my titties like you wanted me.
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