Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunter's Campfire Tell Me About PEX

Need to run a water line from the crawl space to a yard hydrant about 90' away.

I understand direct burial is ok. Type A or B? Type of connector preferred? Etc.

Heat tape can be a bit of an issue if required.

How so?

I'm thinking I'll just use HT on the galvanized riser to the flip handle.

I was think of the other end exiting the crawl space.
I don't heat tape my galvanized frost-proof yard hydrants

I only have experience with Type B, using stainless crimp connectors.

I chose the stainless connectors based on ease of use. Copper compression ring tools need greater spacial access and periodical calibration.

Direct burial is OK. Warnings for UV exposure are probably a bit conservative. I've had a temporary exposed water line run at my cabin in Sterling for 2 years with 100% exposure and so far no issues. I wouldn't want to do it for permanent run, but it works for now. Flushing toilets keep others happy!

Type A is technically superior, but both are very good. If using a contractor that has the expansion tool for Type A, that would be my preference. If doing the work myself I would chose Type B based primarily on the cost of the connection tool. Assuming buying tools. If rental is available then a toss up and run the numbers.

Crap, though this was about PEZ. That, I know something about.

Nevermind.

Why not PVC??

I have crimp on the PEX in my house, my brother has Type A in his house. I wish the plumber who did our house had used A.

PVC is garbage compared to PEX.

A properly installed hydrant has stone around the base to allow it to drain from the bottom. Pex, CTS, or even 180 psi black poly will work underground. Sharkbites will work on the pex just fine. If you have rocky soil consider running the line in pvc for protection. Install a ball valve in the house for service later on.

only use shark bites where you can see them so you can detect leakage and where it’s open so you can change them

Don’t use the homedepot tools, or the new crimp types the older heavy duty commercial crimped is fine, just make sure you check the crimps to see if they are tight enough or the tool needs adjustment. I use the copper crimps from a real plumbing supply vs. the shark bite brand from Home Depot.

Here is a link to a good tool (huge compression head) vs. the stuff Home Depot sells

https://www.yescomusa.com/collectio...-pe-crimp-tool-ring-crimper-w-gauge-blue

I have a 3/4” and a 1/2” tool ...

You’ll also need a ring splitter (to remove a screw up compression ring after you put it on) and a cutter (anything works there) for the plex.

Here is a compression ring removal tool https://www.crimpingtools.com/produ...3-4-inch-1-inch-f1807-copper-crimp-rings
The homedepot ones work fine.

Our water piping froze and broke last winter at deer camp. I ran pex last week from the pump to all the end users we wanted. I had never done it but watched a few youtube videos. It was easy to do and will be easier if any repairs are needed. It is faster to put in than the other types of pipe. As of now none of my connections leaked a drop if they do I can cut them off add in a straight and a short piece and recrimp in less than 5 minutes. I used the copper crimp rings.

I used B. Its stiffer and harder to work with, but I read that when used in chlorinated water it doesn't leach chemicals as bad as Pex A. Having said that, keep in mind that all pipes leach chemicals.

Where ex-stream durability is required I have stepped up to sch 80 PVC, If I'm not running copper which is my preference.
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I have a neighbor whom right at this very moment has a plumbing contractor re-plumbing a home he owns that was plumbed with Pex in a crawl area.. It has been destroyed by rodents... It's being replaced with PVC.

Inside a heated homes walls Pex is probably the cat's pajamas of plumbing options today.
Properly coached a novice can do a somewhat professional appearing job.

In areas where plumbing might be subject to freezing I question the use of Pex.
It's hard to straighten out for install, If you are winterizing a cabin for the season and blowing out all water lines Pex has a habit of holding water in all the low areas created due to not being flat or straight if you get what I'm saying.
Come spring, there can be multiple frozen areas due to the low spots holding water after being blow out.
Warming it up before unrolling and getting it as straight as possible may help overcome this problem.

It's good to -50 with out rupture, but once it freezes your options of thawing are limited. No quickie job with a torch, no clamping on a welder and heat taping is controversial.

Pex can stand freezing, but what about any valves, and such?

Now you're back to the heat tape/Pex issue, all valves that are in areas known to be subject to freezing must be heat taped.
I've seen Pex wrapped with foil and then heat taped, not so sure how that works out.

I am thinking of our place in NW Ontario. I tried draining PVC pipes by gravity draining. That worked at times, and not at other times.

Now I use air to blow the lines, and get along fine so far.

HDPE or heavy PVC. Sch 40 at the minimum.

That is what I call properly done, being sure they "vent" right while draining helps a lot.
Every spigot opened, shower risers are often missed as are dishwasher control valves.



It sure helps the job go quicker but you have to close all the valves and re-open them a time or two in the process.
Most Pex installs leave a hundred little whoop-de-doos where water will lay even when you think you have everything blown clear.