Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Backpack Hunting How to avoid boots with glued on soles?

I have a pair of ChiComm Cabela Elk Hunters which I actually like. What I don't like is waiting for the soles to pop off in severely cold weather like I witnessed twice in our WY camp 3 weeks ago during two big storms. Who makes the best STITCHED on soled boots--preferably higher like 10"?

Look for a STORM welt or a GOODYEAR welt in boots you are contemplating.

Alico, which is an Italian firm makes a pair of Full grain Italian leather, leather lined, Goodyear welt boots that is LEGIT if they work for your feet. I have a pair of 12.5m with an aftermarket plastic/merino insole that is great- but they aren’t light. I believe these boots are only available through Sierra trading post. The price will make you eyes pop out of your head as they are quite affordable. The build quality is high as is the quality of the hardware used.

I've owned two pairs of Alico...The "guide" model I used Onwas the predecessor to the current abomination they call the "guide"...the current one has one less eyelet above the ankle, and a bunch of seams above the ankle and on the achilles. My older "guide" was one leather chunk all the way to the cuff, and was like a ski boot new. The noteworthy aspect of that boot was that it did four glacier-based sheep hunts, with only one resole, and they weren't totally destroyed. Only lost some stitching on the achilles piece. Incredible boot, but a bugger to break in. Low to mid volume fit.

The "summit" model has a WAY more voluminous fit, to the point where it doesn't work for me in steep stuff. It is great on the trail, and great in the cold or snow. Waxed with gaiters and you're bulletproof in deep snow. The fit allows for 2 pairs of wool socks and works to very cold temperatures.

I bought a new pair of "north col" welted boots from LL Bean about 15 years ago, right before discontinuation. Very high quality, but too high volume as well. I used the s--t out of these moose hunting, worn over the neoprene stocking footed hip waders. Nothing better, but a week of constant soak is rough on the leather!

Aside from Alico, you don't have much choice other than picking off near-new-condition vintage boots on ebay. This is a low-probability affair. I'm currently trying to like a pair of Vasque Montana boots, but the right boot for whatever reason was lasted to a foot shaped like a boomerang, and my heel pushes the heel cup to the right too much. Lots of boots like that...would someone please make a straight boot? I'd be taking a hard look at older ebay norwegian welt or littleway welt boots: pivetta, Fabiano, vasque, raichle, scarpa, and the like. You're in hog heaven if you have a smaller foot, 9 or less. Tougher at 12.5 or 13! One of these boots with roughout leather, if waxed with straight beeswax, is a forever piece if you can get it broken in. Nothing else comes close; if it did, I'd own it.

Danner's site claims that they sew soles on some of their boots, at least.

Lowa, Kenetrek, Schnee’s, Zamberlan are all good.

USA made Danners

https://www.danner.com/men/hike/mtn-light.html

Scroll down to Classic hunters

https://www.danner.com/men/hunt?sortId=product-family

I've used the American made Danners for over 20yrs in Alaska, worked very well and love the bobbed soles.

I had a pair of USA Danner Pioneers soles give out completely in ankle deep mud. The uppers are stiched to the mid-sole and then the poron mid sole is glued to the vibram sole. The glue and the poron completely deteriorated. I re-glued them but it wouldn't hold to the decomposing rubber. All I can figure out is some containment or just heat and age caused the problem. I am suspect that some other shoes didn't off gas some solvent in the closet or ozone deteriorated the poron. Once I get them re-done it will be with a denser mid-soles and hopefully screws or other secondary attachment. My European boots done this way have lasted for years. I like leather mid-soles for heavy use.

Glued on soles aren’t the issue. Crappy boots are the issue.

I don’t think these soles are coming off. They are glued on.

Soles 'popping' off screams cheap junk boots, or boots that were over-heated drying near a fire.

Years ago, after Danner started having their glued on soled boots made off shore, I had a chance to talk briefly with a Danner rep in a shoe store. He said the EPA , which was newly formed at the time, was the reason. One of their 1st official acts was to outlaw the glue used to make millions of pairs of shoes and boots. At that time, there was no suitable alternate glue that would hold.
With 1 single, trivial sounding regulation, they killed the entire US shoe industry and forced it to China.

We don't want GLUED up soles.

Yeah, unlikely to have $600 ice climbing boots made for rigid crampons and edging come apart....for awhile.

Excuse the intrusion, but I have similar question. I have some Cabella's lightweight camo hunting boots and the toe has come unglued on both boots. I have glued another earlier pair with contact cement that held, but they were no longer waterproof. What would be the best glue to use to glue them down and have them waterproof.


thanks

Charlie

I find the glue holds up just fine, it is the funky foam "rubber inter layer deteriorates and crumbles.


Sort of thread drift, BUT . . .

Why can't I buy a rubber cement like they have in the shoe shops that really does glue things up?

Some years back, used to repair leather climbing boots where the sole started separating from bashing about on mixed ice, snow and rock terrain using epoxy. Sand the welt.

Usually good for a couple trips.

Irish Setter Elk Tracker.Great boots and they don't leak.Those glued on soles are crap.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=irish+se...ag=googhydr-20&ref=pd_sl_ni9r253hd_e

There are plenty of high quality modern european mountaineering boots w/ non sewn soles. Light, waterproof and durable. Scarpa, Lowa, Salewa, Asolo etc. These are well proven all over the world in any conditions you can imagine. There is nothing wrong w/ 'old school' stuff but boots have made great advances that are performance enhancing and comfortable.


mike r

Yeah, the Asolo boots were the ones I had to "re-glue", periodically. Good boots, though.

Whites of Spokane Wa. Lug soles are glued, stitched, and have several screws through them as well. They are not featherweight yuppie slippers, one can have them custom made, and one can have them rebuilt.

I’m breaking in a pair of these.

https://www.zamberlanusa.com/produc...egian-welt-hiking-boots-waxed-dark-brown

BUY Made in USA .

I like the leather alicos, but not great in every day wet conditions . Have to treat often. I like the scarpas and have a wide foot.

Agreed. I've had a pair for about 9 years now. Only used for hunting, mostly northeast whitetails and western pronghorn/mulies. Preseason, I clean em up and apply a good coat of SnoSeal and they're good to go all season. Tough, comfortable and dry.

Red Wing here.

Seam Grip

I like Hanwags, Lathrop & Sons, White’s and USA made Danners. Never an issue with soles on these.

I have a really nice pair of Lowas that I hadn't worn for a couple of years, but were at the time in great shape. Last summer about 10 miles into a back-country hike in Denali, both outsoles came almost completely off. The glue just gave away. Taped them up and made it out. The Lowa rep said the boots were at least 10 years old, meaning my boots had sat on a shelf somewhere for a couple of years before I bought them. Apparently, the glue degrades over time regardless of use. They recommend replacing boots every 5 - 7 years (of course they want to sell boots). Lowa rebuilt them for me at moderate cost, and now they are good as new.

A couple of lessons learned: Use "fresh" boots for serious hikes, and buy from places that turn a lot of inventory to get a better chance at recent production. If you have a few pairs of boots around, rotate them as they are NOT going to get better with age.

Check out Limmer boots. One can get boots custom fitted & hand made in New Hampshire or the essentially the same boot made in Germany, but not custom fitted. Extremely high quality either way.

I've been through Meindl, Kennetrek, Danner, Asolo, Lowa and a few others. The soles don't just fall off the good ones- at least not in the first couple of years. I rarely have a boot last me more than 2 seasons so I have no experience with the getting 'old'.

shoe goop for the win.

Boots have problems with glued soles but I have had more trouble with the stitching on boots. I have wore out several makers of brand named boots in 9 days Pheasant hunting. Yes when I Pheasant hunt I walk through the grass not down the little game trails, even with a Dog he will not find all the birds because the wind is not always be in his face.
You will just put up more birds if you bust through the cover. Praire Grass cut the thread on boots if it's poorly designed.
I have found Pheasant hunting to be harder on my foot wear than Elk hunting or Antelope or Mule Deer and Caribou and Bear hunting.
So while I'm not a huge fan of glued on soles there are bad designs in stitching up a boot.
Currently I am hunting in Meindl hikers and Boots when my hikers were out I want to try a different brand because yes after about 2-3 years my hikers the soles start to come unglued, and I want to see if there is something better.

Had the same experience last October on an elk hunt in New Mexico with my Lowa’s. They were not worn hard.

I no longer have to walk but about a mile or so
to get to where I hunt, so I don't need expensive
specialized footwear. I wait until after Christmas
when all the hunting gear gets put on clearance
and I buy all the cheap boots in my size that I
can afford. If they make it a season or even two
and they start coming apart, I call it good and
toss 'em and drag out another new pair.

I've had some fairly expensive boots come
apart out in the sticks because of soles
splitting, seams splitting, stitching coming
undone, etc.
Too much to write about

#


But aware Some goodyear/storm welted footwear
can still have only cemented outsoles.

ie; Goodyear welt product claims may only be stitching
together leather upper, insole, welt and midsole.
https://youtu.be/1YBUZjjHF-k

Zamberlain [and others] are an example.
Zamberlain also do a Norweigan-welt boot,
looks impressive with its double-row stitch
but the outsole is only cemented.

Personally I like the storm-welt for outdoor boots
and even casual shoes.