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My last experience with a gunsmith has me so spooked that I will never venture down that path again. Excuse after excuse, mis-aligned scope mounts, hammer marks all over the receiver, pitting covered with DuraCoat, rusty front sight joint oozing rust, etc. etc. And it took phughing FOREVER. This from a smith with a stellar reputation...


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18 months


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Originally Posted by Reloader7RM
I lose interest too fast lol.


^ that’s me there.

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I waited over a year for a barrel switch and a recoil pad. He did good work and was reasonably priced, but damn!


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Originally Posted by 3584ELK
My last experience with a gunsmith has me so spooked that I will never venture down that path again. Excuse after excuse, mis-aligned scope mounts, hammer marks all over the receiver, pitting covered with DuraCoat, rusty front sight joint oozing rust, etc. etc. And it took phughing FOREVER. This from a smith with a stellar reputation...


Name him out and save someone from the same. At least they will be prepared if they choose him.


"Mark the birds and handle your Dog"
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From the things I learned from gunsmithing training / starting my gunsmithing shop

Things to think about with metal work..

1) Do you want a custom reamer ? - that’s going to take extra time (3-8 months).
2). Are you having a barrel made vs. buying off the shelf - This can add considerable time.

IF... you are going the custom barrel and custom reamer direction - order them, get them in hand, and get them to your smith...

A Few things to be careful off...

A). The DIAMETER of the barrel Shank matching the Action (don’t get one that is way too big)...
Turning the barrel after the fact can add stress too it, so it’s best to have it made to size if you can, if it’s big it “CAN” look weird

B). IF you are thinking about putting on a muzzle break, get a cut rifle vs. button rifle barrel.. ESPECIALLY for hunting rifles
Button rifled barrels have compression stress in them, and when you remove the metal to thread the end of the barrel it bells out which can easily cause accuracy issues.
Cut rifle barrels don’t have that stress so they don’t bell out.

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Too dang long! I think 2 1/2 years.

I have one now, that I give all the time in the world. He is fantastic, but busy as heck. One of the hardest working people I know. And his rifles flat out shoot. If I truly need something in a time crunch, it gets done post haste.

That in contrast with some of the egotistical, lazy, unmotivated, woe is me smith's that will never get another dime from me. No matter how skilled they are.

I am done with the fancy full blown rifles, been down that rabbit hole. You are much better off spending the time finding used customs. They may need a small tweek here and there. But the turnaround time is much, much better.


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If you find a good gunsmith, stay on his good side. smile

He’ll help you avoid the waiting for tooling, and metal parts of the equation... the work itself takes a day or two... it’s the line of things waiting that’s the problem.

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Usually about 9 months to do a complete rifle with synthetic stock supplying only the complete action.

One time the regular gunsmith was so backed up, I went to another, recommended gunsmith. In the usual amount of time all he managed to complete was the barreled action, and without a commitment to a completion deadline. I went and paid him off, gathered up the work in progress and then handed everything to the regular gunsmith who finished it pronto. He did mention that the barreled action work was superb.

Now as he edges his way into retirement, he's stopped taking in 'gunsmithing' work and only builds rifles from scratch.


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15 months. That was the 'smith supplying all of the parts.

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Originally Posted by Spotshooter
From the things I learned from gunsmithing training / starting my gunsmithing shop

Things to think about with metal work..

1) Do you want a custom reamer ? - that’s going to take extra time (3-8 months).
2). Are you having a barrel made vs. buying off the shelf - This can add considerable time.

IF... you are going the custom barrel and custom reamer direction - order them, get them in hand, and get them to your smith...

A Few things to be careful off...

A). The DIAMETER of the barrel Shank matching the Action (don’t get one that is way too big)...
Turning the barrel after the fact can add stress too it, so it’s best to have it made to size if you can, if it’s big it “CAN” look weird

B). IF you are thinking about putting on a muzzle break, get a cut rifle vs. button rifle barrel.. ESPECIALLY for hunting rifles
Button rifled barrels have compression stress in them, and when you remove the metal to thread the end of the barrel it bells out which can easily cause accuracy issues.
Cut rifle barrels don’t have that stress so they don’t bell out.




Your statement about cut vrs button is completely false.
A " PROPERLY" stressed relieved button barrel doesnt have anymore than a cut one does.
Case in point, the smallest group I've ever shot was .078 with a button barrel that has a muzzle break and fluted.

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Sherm,

Please go give these video’s a look, I didn’t video the ones I found it on.

It does depends on what size break (how much metal you leave between the bore and the min-thread diameter).. however for hunting rifles that have thinner profile barrels it CAN BE definitely a thing. The guy in the video doesn’t IIRC, talk about cut vs. button lands - this is something I learned and tested...

Happy holidays & enjoy the videos. - page below links to multiple videos on it.

http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2015/04/muzzle-threading-dont-remove-too-much-steel/


BTW - if it effect the rifle there are ways to fix it.... the basic issue with long range accuracy, not short - when the barrel gets loose near the end of the muzzle - you don’t cut it back..

Last edited by Spotshooter; 12/26/19.
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Dont know if I missed it but were did he talk about cut vrs button.
In my opinion taking to much material off the barrel is the biggest detriment whether it's a button or cut barrel.

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16 months but 14 of it was courtesy of McMillans backlog

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18 months from calling and placing myself on the list to final delivery. From when I sent the parts in to delivery probably 4-6 weeks.

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A year and a half after a promised delivery date of 6 months. I finally got pissed and went in and picked up all my parts. Didn't mind the wait so much as the lie.

It all worked out for the best as I found a smith that has finished about 8-10 builds without a single missed date and the work is better.

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Originally Posted by gonehuntin
Such as you supplying the bare action, bolt shroud/safety, new barrel, scope/rings, butt plate & grip cap, walnut blank, sling swivel studs, etc. and a small down payment??

I was quoted a 1 year turnover on a job like you mention from a guild builder.

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Originally Posted by 7_08FAN
Originally Posted by 3584ELK
My last experience with a gunsmith has me so spooked that I will never venture down that path again. Excuse after excuse, mis-aligned scope mounts, hammer marks all over the receiver, pitting covered with DuraCoat, rusty front sight joint oozing rust, etc. etc. And it took phughing FOREVER. This from a smith with a stellar reputation...


Name him out and save someone from the same. At least they will be prepared if they choose him.


Mike Palazzo- Palazzo "Precision" Covington, WA


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Just over two years for a 45-90 Shiloh Sharps built to my specs. Damned well worth it too.

Am at an age now, however, that I'll not commission anything that far out.

Last edited by 1minute; 12/30/19.

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I waited 18 years for a rifle once.



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