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I've noticed that a lot of people around here use Marine Tex. How does it compare to Steel Bed and what are it's advantages and disadvantages. I've only done one bedding job and that was with Steel Bed. Turned out fine but I'm always willing to try new things. Also if I remember right Marine Tex is a lot cheaper. Thats always nice.

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I'm a devout Steelbed Slut.

Minimal shrinkage,easy to control,harder than the hubs of hell and impervious to chemicals and recoil impulses. I'd pay twice the price,if it were required.

Your mileage may vary...............


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I've used both and like them both very much. I think the Steel-Bed would be better on hard kicking rifles. The accuracy crazy Benchrest boys seem to prefer Marine-Tex. The Marine-Tex is indeed less expensive by a good margin. I bought a large box of that stuff and have bedded 4 rifles with it so far and probably could bed at least 4 more. I will keep using it unless I ever build another beast then I'll place an order w/ Brownells.


James


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Cheaha,

Do you know if they sell Marine Tex at West Marine?

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I'm not familar with West Marine but any decent Marina or boat Supply house stocks Marine-Tex. It is used to repair boat hulls and Ski-Doo hulls. A 2 ounce box retails for $9.95 and will bed 2 rifles with ease. I bought a 12 ounce box for $25 bones. It comes in white or gray and can be tinted with color pigments to match most stocks.


James


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LSU,
I prefer Marine-Tex. It starts to set up in 1 hour, at 100deg F you can pop your action out in 4hrs! I've done it many times this way to know. I think with Steel-Bed they recommend a full 24hrs, maybe longer. Both are really tough bedding compounds, I prefer Marine Tex because it cures really fast. Bob338 on H.A. also prefers it for this reason. I do like Acraglass gel for barrel channel filler if needed, it works well too. MtnHtr




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While I have never actually had a problem with any epoxy that I used for bedding, and I have used a bunch of them, in the many discussions I have had with research chemists for various epoxy manufacturers, they all said the same thing. The slower the epoxy sets the stronger it is. Slow-setting formulas speeded up with heat are no stronger than fast-setting formulas.

For that reason I always do what I can to slow the set down, rather than accelerate it. I will freely admit that I don't know that it makes any real difference though...

The steel-bed is quite a bit denser than standard epoxy so I don't use it in rifles that I am looking to keep the weight down on.
art


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Art,
Marine -Tex is plenty strong enough even when cured at moderate temps. It will cure overnite at 60-70 deg. I have a co-worker who is a weekend circle track racer(sportsman) He repaired a hole in the engine block of his race car with marine Tex after a rod came loose. He is still using that block after 3 seasons of racing, the Marine -Tex repair is holding up well. I've bedded close to an est 15-18 rifles with Marine Tex, most of em I've popped out after 8hrs cure with never a problem. I'm a weekend warrior on most gun projects so Marine-Tex serves me well. MtnHtr




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All,
Here are some Marine -Tex facts out of the brochure that comes with it.

"The adhesive shear strength of marine Tex to steel exceeds 1800psi; and the adhesive shear strength to fiberglass and wood is stronger than either substrate. Tensile strength is 4000 psi."

"Marine Tex will not rust or corrode. It resists attack by gasoline, oil and other hydocarbons, solvents, brine and many acids, alkalis and chemicals."

"5. Marine Tex will begin to cure and harden in 2-3hrs at 72degF. Full cure for structual applications is 18-24hrs at 72degF. To accelerate the curing process, place a heat lamp or other heat source 1-2ft from the repair area. Avoid use of open flame to speed hardening."

Like I posted before, I have popped out actions as early as 4hrs cure time. The bedding is plenty cured for clean -up and the imprint of the action is set. On acraglass gel or Steel bed, I will wait a full 48hrs before touching it.

I also use Marine Tex for installing the swivel studs in fiberglass stocks, its has plenty of holding power for this. I know of quite a few 'smiths who use it for this also. MtnHtr




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Mtn Hunter
I have used a lot of Marine-Tex also, and think it is a great bedding compound. It is more than strong enough to do the job. My only thought was that for the sake of a few hours, you might someday find just how fast you cannot set the bedding and get away with it... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />
art


Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
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by all means Marine tex is plenty strong. It is one of the strongest "bedding" compouds available.Some of the top dog builders like GA. Precision and the Marine corps. use it.

MT, Devcon and Bisonite are the toughesty strongest bedding compounds available. Brownells steel bed is probably close, but I have only used it once when it first came out and didnt like the thickness of it.
You may ask what? thickness?
like acra gel I do not like mixing it when it is thick. I prefer to add coloidial silica to a liquid like compound to thicken it as I go, so I can control the thickness.

Currently I use Bisonite steel for the action / lug areas and an epoxy from west systems for the barrel channel. Both need to be thickened for bedding with the coloidial silica.
When I run out of my supply of Bisonite, I am going to use either Devcon steel or Marinetex. Probably both to see wich I like working with the best.
The Bisonite, while very strong, gets "hard" in the can before mixing. This only means that the can of "resin" must be put in hot water for a few minutes. This is a PITA, so I am going to try others when I run out.

FWIW

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Celt
Any resin kept too long will start precipitating on you. I have a big can of Marine-Tex, cold cure and another,I am trying to remember the name, doing that to me now...
art


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The Bisonite will do that in a couple days if it gets below about 75 DEG.



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