Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Ask The Gunwriters Paralax Error & Raised Cheek Rest

I've always had trouble with paralax error. I'm a good shooter, not great. I can shoot sub-MOA with one rifle and MOA with several others. The one rifle that I can shoot sub-MOA with has a raised cheek rest on the stock. The others don't and I try to eliminate paralax error by always holding my head in the same place relative to the stock. But I still have more horizontal spread than I would like.

I'm wise enough to know that the one thing that can improve my accuracy is practice. I know that the limitatiions are mostly mine, not the gear. Still I'm vain enough to think that if I had a raised cheek rest on my other riflers, I might eliminate some of that horizontal spread.

There are four rifles that I think I might improve by adding a raised cheek rest. Two have synthetic stocks. Two have a walnut stocks.

I'm not rich and I'm really too cheap to buy new stocks.

So how can I add raised cheek patches to these rifles? And not make them look like abominations?

Following this thread.

I have used a neoprene stick on pad on some rifles. Even on walnut that don't harm the stock.
I think they can be removed and re applied.

Interested in other replies.

Look for lace on pads made out of leather.

They were used on Garand and the Brits rifles in the ww2/and later.

Last time i looked they were about 25+- bucks.
Some types attach with screws but look at the lace up.

I am pleased with one of these on my Marlin 336 35 Rem.

https://www.beartooth-products.com/collections/comb-raising-kit-gun-cover-cheek-pad-weld-piece-riser

I have mentioned this before on a similar thread, but I put a raised cheek piece on my McMillan classic hunter, and my son's tika t3x . I put them on with a strong adhesive like jb weld, instead of drilling holes in my stock. They are a huge asset, especially when shooting prone. The check pieces will greatly improve your consistent cheek weld,and therefore your accuracy. These are the plastic moldable cheek pieces. You simply set it to the exact height that fits you,make a couple marks on your stock, and the glue the check piece in place. One note, make sure the cheek piece sets far enough back that you can get the bolt out when you need to.

I recently came across Rick Lowe Custom Leather lace on cheek rests. I have 5 of them in both the 1" and 1/2" height and they make a big difference for me. They are not cheap but you can still order several before you reach the cost of a new stock.

It might just be that the rifles in question are only about as accurate as the results you've been getting, and parallax has nothing to do with it. At what distance are you shooting, and with what scope? Are you actually seeing parallax through the eyepiece (ie reticle moving on the target as you move your head around without moving the rifle)?

If you want to try the comb-raising thing though, without permanently modifying your rifles, you could use a bit of neoprene. Easiest of all I've found is what we call a stubby holder here (I think you call them "koozies"). You knock the bottom out of it and you have a cylinder of neoprene which can stretch over the butt to give you a little extra height. A piece of neoprene from a mouse pad, attached with tape, will do the same job, and you can add thicknesses with extra layers of neoprene. If that works for you you can go to something a bit more permanent, but if it makes no difference it has cost you nothing.

One might try a scope that can be parallax corrected. That's one route past technique issues.

KC,

Have you actually checked your scopes for parallax at the ranges tested?

I ask because it takes a LOT of parallax and eye misalignment to actually make a significant difference.

dan oz & Mule Deer:

Yes, I have checked for paralax error. The vertical retical moves horizontally when I move my head.

I'm going to try suggested products made by Beretta and Beartooth on two rifles. Both products seem like they are reversable. So if I screw it up, I can correct the mistake.

Thanks everyone for your input.

KC

KC
Getting a scope that has a parallax adjustment is the fix. Dont ever think you can put your head is the same place on the stock. Aint happening. Why do I say that ? For several years I have been teaching LE precision rifle shooting. In helping/making them understand how much parallax can be a factor, we do a test. Like this.....
We all know we can put our head in exactly the same place on a stock, even the STAR stock which is more adjustable that any on the market. But have we ever demonstrated it ? NO WE HAVE NOT !
Here is how the test works. I use a very heavy shooting table with a 1/2 inch steel top. Bolt on a large vise. Clamp the rifle in the vise so it cant be moved. When using the STAR stock, I clamp in the action area, plenty of strength there. Let the shooter set behind the rifle and adjust the stock any way he/she wants. Lock down the adjustments. Then take a Sharpie, put a small mark on their cheek and another on their temple. Get them back on the the stock, comfortable, then use a dial indicator with a magnetic base and zero each on there respective marks. Have the shooter move off the rifle. Then back on . Use their cel phone to take photos or else they wont believe how far off they are.
The standard bet is $200 if they can do this 5 times in a row. I had one shooter who got on the marks 2 out of five. The rest never get back. I made enough money from these bets to buy a pickup from my brother.
This idea of getting on the stock the same way every time is great until you have to demonstrate it.

KC
Another eye opening test is to set up a stock that fits from a bench, and use a scope with no parallax adjustment. Then shoot from your weak side, then prone on both sides, and watch your point of impact walk around.

Charlie;
Good morning to you sir, I trust the day is as bright and calm in Kentucky as it is up here just across the medicine line.

Thanks kindly for taking the time to post that bit of information.

I've now read it twice - have a good friend in law enforcement who's job has him behind a rifle - anyway we've kicked this subject around a bit and reading what you've found I just had to shake my head, grin and feel somewhat vindicated that my until now unproven theory wasn't totally crazy.

While I'm cognizant you're a busy man sir, please feel free to share what you've learned any time you're so inclined. I believe I can speak for a few of us that very much appreciate your findings.

If I'm not mistaken it was yourself and John Barsness who years ago built a .300WSM and then chambered it to .300H&H after to prove case shape didn't matter? That was another moment of clarity for me and if it was you once again, then thanks for that one too!

Thanks either way and all the best to you as we head into winter.

Dwayne

So, do you feel a raised cheek piece/adjustable stock is a waste?

BC30cal
Give me a call sometime. I can talk a little faster than I can type !😀🤔😫🤣

Dennis:

No, I don't think it would be a waste, just expensive.

KC

Why make this so difficult and maybe expensive..tape some cloth rags, I used my wife`s wash cloths, pad them to get the correct height, eye to scope,etc. and try it..see if what your doing helps or not. If the adhock cheek piece works, then change or add something permanent. Easy-peasy.
Good luck.

KC,

Now you've made me curious: Exactly what is this scope that has so much parallax?

Also, am assuming you're testing it at 100 yards? You don't say in your original post.

Muley:

Yeah. You're right, I am shooting at 100 yuards mostly. But I also practice at 200 and 300. The scope is a Leupold VX-3 3.5x10x40. I have the same prtoblem with several scopes. So I'm not blaming it on the gear. I don't think the problem is with the scope. I think it's my head moving and nothing to rest my cheek on to prevent movement.

KC

That is definitely parallax error, coming from the optics. Trying to keep you head in the exact same spot every time will likely be impossible realistically