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Bought a small stove on a Cyber Monday sale, been wanting to put one in my house for a while and it was half price.

It’s a glass door, pedestal mount, 6” flue. Welded plate steel. I have 10 foot ceilings in the house, paneling over lath and plaster walls, and hardwood floors.

The plan at this point is to use a couple pieces of molding to make a frame on the floor to lay brick in for a place for the stove to sit. Use a support box through the ceiling for the pipe. And put some type of backer or fireboard on the walls in the corner I want to put it in. Maybe some old tin over the backer for looks not sure yet. Aunt and Uncle put a sheet of concrete board behind theirs and textured it to match the wall, it still looks good 30 years later but I can’t texture to match paneling.

Ideas, suggestions, anything I’m missing?

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Is the pipe going thru living space above the ceiling? Are you using single, Double or triple wall pipe? Chimney exiting then the roof or a side wall?

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there is building code for all of it, make sure to check on that, save you a lot of head ache...


Originally Posted by jorgeI
...Actually Sycamore, you are sort of right....
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Pipe will go up and through the attic. Not sure if I need double or triple wall pipe going up there, that’s why I came to you guys.

Not much in the way of building codes handy around here. I’m sure my 1930 construction house complete with unvented floor furnace wouldn’t make it anyway.

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Round or 45 the corners of the floor hearth to reduce toe damage.

The stove back usually has a 1/2 inch to inch air space for air flow .This is accomplished by firring out with one by's and attaching a sheet of cement board.


Since you don't have manufactures recommendations, the final say will be your insurance agent.


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build a raised hearth to set it on. Easier to load/maintain and brings the fire more up to eye level..... thank me later

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What should I build it out of Hunts? I’m a pretty fair heavy fabricator and a decent pipe fitter, but I’m not sure on stone masonry.

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Use triple wall from ceiling all the way out. Top of pipe must be at least 2feet from all surrounding surfaces within a 10 foot radius for it to draw properly .Remember to find someway to get outside make up air to it.


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I’m thinking that my 90 year old windows and doors are going to provide pretty good ventilation. smile

I’m thinking of buying a kit like this. https://sutherlands.com/products/item/6896740/duravent-6-inch-duraplus-basic-kit So double wall up to the support box and triple on out the top?

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Chimney needs to be tall enough.


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Originally Posted by Sycamore
there is building code for all of it, make sure to check on that, save you a lot of head ache...


^^^ This ^^^

And to avoid any potential undesirable surprises it would probably be wise to check on what your home owners insurance may require with indoor wood burners, as well, and also if there might be an increase in your coverage premiums, too.




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Originally Posted by joken2

Originally Posted by Sycamore
there is building code for all of it, make sure to check on that, save you a lot of head ache...


^^^ This ^^^

And to avoid any potential undesirable surprises it would probably be wise to check on what your home owners insurance may require with indoor wood burners, as well, and also if there might be an increase in your coverage premiums, too.




+1


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Have the chimney professionally installed to code and make sure your insurance company knows it. The chimney should be at least three feet higher than the peak of your roof.. You should have double-wall pipe at the very least. Double-wall will help keep creosote deposits down to a minimum. Running the stove full-throttle about 30 minutes per week helps keep creosote deposits down. Of course using the driest wood you can find minimizes creosote build up as well as a higher operation temperature.

Excel chimneys and pipe are the absolute best there is. Selkirk Metalbestos is probably the most common chimney in use in AK, and they are good. But Excel can withstand several chimney fires where a Selkirk should probably be replaced. You can research them to see the design and material differences in them.

You can put cement board down on the floor where the stove is going to sit and on the wall behind it, slate the floor and maybe put brick cut in half lengthwise on the wall behind it. There's no need to go higher than the height of the stove unless you want to. If the stove is sitting 18" or further away from the wall, there's no real reason to brick or shield it. But a nice slate pad trimmed in brick looks nice for the stove to sit on.

My recommendation is if your house size, design and layout permits it, place the stove in the most central location you can without it getting in the way. It will heat more evenly than trying to push heat from a corner to heat the far reaches of the rest of the residence.

If you already heat with a gas or oil furnace there should already be a fresh air intake somewhere. That should be sufficient to supply combustion air to your woodstove. The only real problems you could run into is if you have a heat/air-conditioning recovery ventilation system. In that case that whole system would have to be rebalanced to make sure your ventilation system isn't at negative pressure when using the stove.


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Originally Posted by joken2

Originally Posted by Sycamore
there is building code for all of it, make sure to check on that, save you a lot of head ache...


^^^ This ^^^

And to avoid any potential undesirable surprises it would probably be wise to check on what your home owners insurance may require with indoor wood burners, as well, and also if there might be an increase in your coverage premiums, too.




Ya beat me to it.

Not only may it increase premiums, they may cancel the policy altogether.

Failure to inform them now, may deny a claim later.


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Triple wall be the best, raised hearth will make it easier on you to load, clean, etc. it will save you a lot of bending over. The older I get the less I like to bend over!

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Like they say, do it by the book.


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Will the fire draw air from the outside or from inside the house for combustion?

As an example, an open type fireplace will use the oxygen right in front of it causing a vacuum and thereby pulling the surrounding air in to fill the void. A chain reaction occurs because of this and eventually it will draw outside air from the cracks/seals around windows and doors.

If standing next to the open fireplace you’ll roast, if sitting across the room you’ll freeze your ass off.

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Originally Posted by TheKid
Bought a small stove on a Cyber Monday sale, been wanting to put one in my house for a while and it was half price.

It’s a glass door, pedestal mount, 6” flue. Welded plate steel. I have 10 foot ceilings in the house, paneling over lath and plaster walls, and hardwood floors.

The plan at this point is to use a couple pieces of molding to make a frame on the floor to lay brick in for a place for the stove to sit. Use a support box through the ceiling for the pipe. And put some type of backer or fireboard on the walls in the corner I want to put it in. Maybe some old tin over the backer for looks not sure yet. Aunt and Uncle put a sheet of concrete board behind theirs and textured it to match the wall, it still looks good 30 years later but I can’t texture to match paneling.

Ideas, suggestions, anything I’m missing?



Most states require the chimney to go straight up through the roof with a minimum 2' clearance above the peak... Your base for the stove should be a minimum 6'X6' and the stove should never be closer to the wall than 3' - possibly more depending on the design/model.. The pad should be grouted stone time to prevent any ember from dropping between...

I've been burning wood in the house (stand-alone stove, not a furnace) for over 45 years and never had a problem..


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Originally Posted by Redneck
Originally Posted by TheKid
Bought a small stove on a Cyber Monday sale, been wanting to put one in my house for a while and it was half price.

It’s a glass door, pedestal mount, 6” flue. Welded plate steel. I have 10 foot ceilings in the house, paneling over lath and plaster walls, and hardwood floors.

The plan at this point is to use a couple pieces of molding to make a frame on the floor to lay brick in for a place for the stove to sit. Use a support box through the ceiling for the pipe. And put some type of backer or fireboard on the walls in the corner I want to put it in. Maybe some old tin over the backer for looks not sure yet. Aunt and Uncle put a sheet of concrete board behind theirs and textured it to match the wall, it still looks good 30 years later but I can’t texture to match paneling.

Ideas, suggestions, anything I’m missing?



Most states require the chimney to go straight up through the roof with a minimum 2' clearance above the peak... Your base for the stove should be a minimum 6'X6' and the stove should never be closer to the wall than 3' - possibly more depending on the design/model.. The pad should be grouted stone time to prevent any ember from dropping between...

I've been burning wood in the house (stand-alone stove, not a furnace) for over 45 years and never had a problem..

Not exactly.

2 ft above a 10 ft Horizontal line.

https://inspectapedia.com/chimneys/Chimney_Clearance_Spec020-DFs.jpg


Give a man a fish and he eats for a day. Give a man a welfare check, a forty ounce malt liquor, a crack pipe, an Obama phone, free health insurance. and some Air Jordan's and he votes Democrat for a lifetime.
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