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Insulated stainless chimney pipe beats the holy chit outta ANY uninsulated doublewall or triiplewall.......
singlewall flue below the ceiling keeps heat loss to a minimum. Metalbestos or Duravent insulated chimneyfor the win. And a pivot cap to max draw and min 'puffing'....

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Can you still buy triple wall pipe? I was told they all went out of business, law suits.


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Stainless double wall would be fine.

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Originally Posted by TheKid
What should I build it out of Hunts? I’m a pretty fair heavy fabricator and a decent pipe fitter, but I’m not sure on stone masonry.



Recently installed this in basement.......although NG.......

Removed old coal/wood stove....for me too much mess & fuss...NG is cheap & clean

Built the hearth frame from 2x12s....covered it with hardy backer board....had some left over

cultured fake stone....just enough I may add...the actual top is 2" x 16" pavers....the flue?

Used the existing 8" flue but added a 4" flexible metal approved gas flue & wind proof cap

The shown 6" black is just decorative...NG supply was in room above so connection was easy.....

Have two vents in ceiling that let the warm air flow upstairs..along with a ceiling fan to keep air moving

As mentioned...the hearth raises stove off the floor.....better visual & easier to feed & maintain

Suggestions are ceiling fan along with a fan in stove itself to keep air moving from the stove

Laying the cultured stone is easy....just time consuming....rocks stick like glue with Type S mortar & backer board

Linky........stove I used........

https://www.woodstoves-fireplaces.com/majestic-oxford-cast-iron-stove/

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


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[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

You can make a pretty nice heat shield with copper. Fasten it with copper nails so that there is a 1 inch air space between the metal and the wall. Also a 1 inch air space at the bottom.
I bought the copper and laid it down on a big plank, and beat hell out of it with a ball peen hammer. Hammered copper.
It looks even better in real life than it does in the picture.

Someone said, the insurance company will get the final say. I have been burning wood stoves here for 21 years, the insurance company knows it, and they have never said a thing.

I figured, they would send an inspector up and he would take measurements, take photos etc. No. They have never taken a look at my rig.

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I had three fireplace/stove stores and have sold and installed hundreds of these. There are specific codes on this. Don't guess. I also inspected a few burned buildings for insurance companies and I can tell you you don't want to take advise from just anybody. Feel free to PM me if you need help.

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I would use slate or brick for the stove to sit on. Silver heat shield between the stove and any combustible wall with protect the wall. With the stove red-hot, one can out his hand behind the shield and it will be almost cool. The silver color reflects and, at the same time, does not radiate heat. The advice about providing outside combustion air is a good one. I have not done that and always feel that I should have. Luckily, the old home is well ventilated!
I have a Selkirk chimney which has been in use for 24 years and has been completely satisfactory. Our stove either burns hot or it is out. I never let a fire smolder at low heat. This way the chimney remains clean. This site is giving me typing trouble again so I'm done! GD

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Originally Posted by simonkenton7
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

You can make a pretty nice heat shield with copper. Fasten it with copper nails so that there is a 1 inch air space between the metal and the wall. Also a 1 inch air space at the bottom.
I bought the copper and laid it down on a big plank, and beat hell out of it with a ball peen hammer. Hammered copper.
It looks even better in real life than it does in the picture.

Someone said, the insurance company will get the final say. I have been burning wood stoves here for 21 years, the insurance company knows it, and they have never said a thing.

I figured, they would send an inspector up and he would take measurements, take photos etc. No. They have never taken a look at my rig.


Is that a Jotul stove?

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If you're not within a few feet of the peak, make sure to put a snow diverter above it so when the snow piles up on your roof and slides, it doesn't take out your stove pipe.


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On the lighter side, I once saw an economic assessment for converting from oil to wood heat. With expenses for a saw, a couple chains, saw replacement, a new pickup/trailer, towing fees, a couple new rear windows, two emergency room visits, stove, chimney, floor pad, etc, the first year savings amounted to a negative $52,000. Have always heated with wood here and enjoy every aspect of it.

My sole advice - run a straight pipe if possible to facilitate draft and cleaning. A neighbor has a couple 90's in his system with a steep roof and has to pay heavily for annual cleaning. The cleaning, however, does not take care of his creosoted chimney cap and his system pumps smoke and ash into the house every time he opens the door. I run a straight pipe with no cap on top, and it will suck the chrome off a trailer hitch.

Last edited by 1minute; 12/10/19.

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Originally Posted by tikkanut
Originally Posted by TheKid
What should I build it out of Hunts? I’m a pretty fair heavy fabricator and a decent pipe fitter, but I’m not sure on stone masonry.



Recently installed this in basement.......although NG.......

Removed old coal/wood stove....for me too much mess & fuss...NG is cheap & clean

Built the hearth frame from 2x12s....covered it with hardy backer board....had some left over

cultured fake stone....just enough I may add...the actual top is 2" x 16" pavers....the flue?

Used the existing 8" flue but added a 4" flexible metal approved gas flue & wind proof cap

The shown 6" black is just decorative...NG supply was in room above so connection was easy.....

Have two vents in ceiling that let the warm air flow upstairs..along with a ceiling fan to keep air moving

As mentioned...the hearth raises stove off the floor.....better visual & easier to feed & maintain

Suggestions are ceiling fan along with a fan in stove itself to keep air moving from the stove

Laying the cultured stone is easy....just time consuming....rocks stick like glue with Type S mortar & backer board

Linky........stove I used........

https://www.woodstoves-fireplaces.com/majestic-oxford-cast-iron-stove/

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
Your setup would not be legal here... Can't have that 90 degree bend in the chimney... Nor would I put those items so close to the stove.. Any stray ember and that basket's, ah, 'tinder'... smile

______________________________


This is not a great pic - the camera lens is a 14mm so it looks like things are a lot closer than they are - plus, this stove is a double-wall style on the sides with a shielded fan shroud in the back.. The brick wall behind doesn't get much warmer than about 100-110 degrees.. The previous stove was single-wall and that brick wall behind would store a lot of heat to radiate back into the room later.. The pad is 6'X6' and tiled with stone.. The chimney here is 24' in total length - and straight up through the roof..

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]


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Originally Posted by rwa3006
I had three fireplace/stove stores and have sold and installed hundreds of these. There are specific codes on this. Don't guess. I also inspected a few burned buildings for insurance companies and I can tell you you don't want to take advise from just anybody. Feel free to PM me if you need help.


I helped a local volunteer fire department put out a neighbor's house fire once several years ago.

Neighbor heated their whole house with a wood burner located in their family room. Neighbor tried to convince his insurance company the fire was caused by an electrical problem with an aquarium as he hadn't reported to insurance that they heated with a wood burner.

I was one of the first through the family room outside door and saw flames and smoke roiling out where the wood burner chimney went through the ceiling.
I saw no flames, smoke or anything even remotely indicating a fire at or close to the aquarium.

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Originally Posted by Ghostinthemachine
Originally Posted by simonkenton7
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

You can make a pretty nice heat shield with copper. Fasten it with copper nails so that there is a 1 inch air space between the metal and the wall. Also a 1 inch air space at the bottom.
I bought the copper and laid it down on a big plank, and beat hell out of it with a ball peen hammer. Hammered copper.
It looks even better in real life than it does in the picture.

Someone said, the insurance company will get the final say. I have been burning wood stoves here for 21 years, the insurance company knows it, and they have never said a thing.

I figured, they would send an inspector up and he would take measurements, take photos etc. No. They have never taken a look at my rig.


Is that a Jotul stove?



Yes it is the Jotul Oslo. A very good stove, and you reminded me, it temp is dropping fast just hit 43 outside, I think I will light it up.

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Guys I appreciate all your help. SimonKenton’s setup is pretty much exactly what I want when I’m done.

Bad news is the “deal” I got on Amazon may have been a scam. Stove is almost a week overdue and the tracking number appears to be bogus. Might have to start the search over again.

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at least you got free shipping
wink

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Originally Posted by kid0917
at least you got free shipping
wink





grin


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Liberal father: " I fought the Americans, along with all the other liberals."

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Have you checked w homeowners insurance to see how much they want to rape you for using a wood stove?

Around here they want to charge a higher premium for heating with wood stoves.


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I haven’t checked but my aunt and uncle live next door in a larger older house on a bigger lot and their premiums are not outrageous. My other Uncle is both of our Insurance agent. I don’t know what it’ll go up but I’ll check, I’m betting it will be negligible.

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