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safety wont move to the safe position, what to do?
Last edited by texken; 12/26/19.
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Remove the butt stock and eyeball the linkage as you push on the slide. These can be very elusive to solve. I feel your pain.
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I have nothing to add since I don't have a tang safety. I do have a question though,... does the rifle need to be cocked in order for the safety to slide/function?
"Every day above ground is a good day."
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I have nothing to add since I don't have a tang safety. I do have a question though,... does the rifle need to be cocked in order for the safety to slide/function?
I have a DE and a CE. The safety will NOT move unless the rifle is cocked.
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Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools because they have to say something. - Plato
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Last edited by Fireball2; 12/27/19.
_______________________________________________________ An 8 dollar driveway boy living in a T-111 shack
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Several years ago I had a similar problem in that the safety would just slightly engage. I removed the butt stock and saw that there was a notch that needed enlarging a little bit to slide properly. Worked good thereafter.
Shew me thy ways, O LORD: teach me thy paths. "there are few better cartridges on Earth than the 7 x 57mm Mauser" "the .30 Springfield is light, accurate, penetrating, and has surprising stopping power"
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Probably a little of both. At some point soon I will have a PE to complete the trio. Luckily the DE is .284, so I killed two birds with one stone. I won't be chasing down anymore post-mils that I can think of.
NRA Endowment Life Member (and proud of it)
Nowadays people know the price of everything and the value of nothing.
Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools because they have to say something. - Plato
Deuteronomy 22:5
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The safety meck-a-nysum has a square hole in it that fits over the safe-tee button thingy that hangs down inside the ree-see-vur. Sometimes the meck-a-nysum needs tweaking (bent up) to go over the safe-tee square button thingy hanging down inside the ree-see-vur.
All-sew, the meck-a-nysum thingy has an arm that goes from top to bot-tum about 2" long and 1/4" wide, at an angle. An arm, see it? Makes sure it's not bent out sideways a-rubbin on the inside of the wood thingy , a bindin up-like.
_______________________________________________________ An 8 dollar driveway boy living in a T-111 shack
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The safety meck-a-nysum has a square hole in it that fits over the safe-tee button thingy that hangs down inside the ree-see-vur. Sometimes the meck-a-nysum needs tweaking (bent up) to go over the safe-tee square button thingy hanging down inside the ree-see-vur.
All-sew, the meck-a-nysum thingy has an arm that goes from top to bot-tum about 2" long and 1/4" wide, at an angle. An arm, see it? Makes sure it's not bent out sideways a-rubbin on the inside of the wood thingy , a bindin up-like. couldn't have said it better myself. actually I tried and couldn't say it!
the consolidation of the states into one vast republic, sure to be aggressive abroad and despotic at home, will be the certain precursor of that ruin which has overwhelmed all those that have preceded. Robert E Lee ~Molɔ̀ːn Labé Skýla~
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The man does have a way with words...
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The man does have a way with words... Well, werds anyways....
An unemployed Jester, is nobody's Fool.
the only real difference between a good tracker and a bad tracker, is observation. all the same data is present for both. The rest, is understanding what you're seeing.
~Molɔ̀ːn Labé Skýla~
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safety wont move to the safe position, what to do? texken. I took one apart and here's what I found. The safety linkage rides onto a shelf on top of the trigger to engage the safety. If the safety linkage is too long, it runs into the trigger rather than riding up onto it, blocking it. If you pull the pin out of the trigger and catch the trigger spring, you can remove some metal on the shelf of the trigger until the safety linkage slides freely onto the trigger shelf and locks it. What I found is all the machanisms need oil to test otherwise it binds up. Once you file the trigger shelf to the point the safety linkage can slide onto the shelf, polish it until it's smooth with 220 sandpaper. Here's some photos to help illustrate. The tit sticking down off the safety arm has to ride up onto that shelf on the top of the trigger. The safety lever is on top, the linkage goes down and behind the trigger. Here's the three pieces out (Yes, there's a funny s shaped spring involved!) The square thingy and the square holey dealy in the meck-a-nysm The shiny flat surface just above my thumb is the surface to polish until the safety slides onto the trigger correctly You'll have to remove the buttstock, breech bolt stop (1/2" long L shaped tab that stops the breech bolt from going all the way back and falling out) and the breech bolt from the rifle, and this cartridge cutoff. Don't drop the spring. I use assembly goo to hold the spring in place when reassembling. Plain grease might work, or crisco/butter in a pinch.
Last edited by Fireball2; 12/28/19.
_______________________________________________________ An 8 dollar driveway boy living in a T-111 shack
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I would say the tit should be the "stop" for rearward travel of the safety rather than what I described above, but that's not the way it worked on this rifle. This rifle is as new. FWIW.
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That was real nice of you to go to the trouble to do that for texken. Great pictures, wondered how they worked. Hope I can find this if I ever have that problem. Is this a great place or what.
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If that piece needs to be shortened, I would think the issue would have been there from day one. Why does it occur now? Could it be that the trigger return spring is weakened so that it is not returning the trigger far enough forward to lower that lip on the trigger that the safety piece rides up over? https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/144200A
Last edited by KeithNyst; 12/28/19.
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If it was my gun and a faulty safety was involved it would be going to my gunsmith, ymmv.
"When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro." Hunter S. Thompson
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If it was my gun and a faulty safety was involved it would be going to my gunsmith, ymmv.
That's always good advice. ^^^^^^ But, most gunsmiths don't know the first thing about Savage rifles so they'll be learning on your dime.
_______________________________________________________ An 8 dollar driveway boy living in a T-111 shack
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If that piece needs to be shortened, I would think the issue would have been there from day one. Why does it occur now? Could it be that the trigger return spring is weakened so that it is not returning the trigger far enough forward to lower that lip on the trigger that the safety piece rides up over? https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/144200AThe firing mechanism on these tang safeties is a real cluster**** but the safety where it locks the trigger is very simple. The safety simply slides rearward onto the *shelf* on the trigger and blocks it. Your job, should you choose to accept it, is to make those two pieces engage. Shine a light down in there and move the tang safety while watching what's happening at the trigger. You'll know if they aren't engaged because the tang safety on top of the receiver won't be in the rearward position. Visually there's no mistaking engaged/disengaged. BTW, as for whether the rifle was like that from day one, I suspect it could have been. This is a 1970 99 DL in 300. It looks unfired/as new. My WAG is that because the safety wasn't engaging this rifle was set aside, never fired, and forgotten. I could be wrong, but that would explain a 50 year old rifle with no use. I was told it came from a widows estate.
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Changed some verbiage to clarify.
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