Home Forums Gear Knives and Blades Guide to knife steels

Just fer Giggles N' Grins





https://www.heinnie.com/blog/complete-guide-knife-tool-steels/









ya!

GWB

Yeah, BUT.........

Thanks Glen. Hope many here get a little more info from this.

It is a topic with a lot of info available, and will always be up to personal interpretations
and preferences and daily new things happening.
Tim

It isn't very complete!

You can find a lot more up to date info here

https://knifesteelnerds.com

wasn't meant to be.


But then I've never been one to let the perfect be the enemy of the good.



as I continually operate within a narrow band of mediocrity!

ya!

GWB

Funny that isn't what the title says!

The Complete Guide to Knife and Tool Steels

Don't believe every thing you read!

Never was a hoss that couldn't be rode,
and never was a rider that couldn't be throw'd

ya!

GWB

Wow, that is fantastically nerdy. Good stuff, thanks

Never!

Good info Gents. Thanks.

Zknives.com, and they have a great phone app

Just...wow...

You're one of the good guys on here, but...no insult to you...that is one of the worst supposed "steel Guides' I've yet seen. After the first 3 inaccuracies I bailed...

Only on the fire can you be beheaded for offering up good, free information.

"beheaded'??



No - bad, inaccurate bullsh1t

Where were the inaccuracies in the link on knife steels?

"After the first 3 inaccuracies I bailed."

"Where were the inaccuracies in the link on knife steels?"

Without going overboard or getting twisted up, a little data to go with one liners would be appreciated I am sure.
Not trying to get another thread melt down going here, just......
Tim

Five key Terms would be a good start!

Ultra Premium Being S90V! In fairness I do love S90V. But it is hardly a Ultra Premium steel. Actually all those listed are decent steels when properly used. But not Ultra Premium.

The graphs they use are of common factory HRC, not what is being reached by those that know how to heat treat! Which means the edge retention and wear resistance graphs are not accurate either!

The fact that they are missing a bunch of very good steels in the list would be another!

There is a lot of good information out there, this not being one of them. But to each their own.

[quote=geedubya]Just fer Giggles N' Grins

https://www.heinnie.com/blog/complete-guide-knife-tool-steels/

ya!

GWB


No good deed goes unpunished. I thought the first sentence of the post said it all..

How much of which knife steels are "best" is subjective, not objective? Different steels are better for different tasks and different people like different benefits. Some like stainless, some like carbon. Some like a blade that's easy to sharpen, others like a blade they will hardly ever have to touch up. Also, how much of what makes one steel "better" than another is just numbers on a paper that the average person could never tell the difference about in real life. Here's an example that will probably get me flamed. My EDC is a Spyderco Delica in VG10. I use it all the time to open boxes, envelopes, clean fingernails, etc. It's easy to sharpen but needs touching up. If I was in the wilderness in a survival situation, I'd want a steel that holds an edge much longer since I wouldn't have the tools to do it with.

You were right here, after that not so much.

How much of which knife steels are "best" is subjective, not objective? Different steels are better for different tasks and different people like different benefits. Some like stainless, some like carbon.

How about steels that are easy to sharpen yet hold an edge a long time, with good toughness?

David

Are we going to play the metallurgy version of : Good, Fast, Cheap: You can only pick two.

How about 3 out of 4?


David

Ha ha.. I'm thinking we shall soon read about several favorites. Hopefully a good discussion.

1.2562 @ 67-68HRC.

You guys make sharpening harder than it needs to be. One buy the right stones! Two don't let the edge get so dull it needs to be reworked!

But good stones cost money.

1.2562 @ 67-68HRC.
A bit of info on this please.
Thanks in advance

I have no experience with that steel, I was actually thinking of CPM 3V @ 60HRC.

David

3V isn't going to hold an edge to the degree of S30V but will be a tougher steel. As far as sharpening goes it has a fair amount of Vanadium so it needs the proper stones to sharpen to make it fit your criteria of ease of sharpening. I am a fan of 3V but not in a hunting/field knife. Bushcraft or fighter would better suit its use.

Not sure what info you are wanting Tim.

Not a steel I have heard of.
Just wondered who is using it for what purpose.

I did a search.
It is a product out of Germany.
Looks like carbon and tungsten are the work horses in the chemistry.
Only trace amounts of Chromium and Vanadium.

Must be mostly used by hand forging for blades?????

Figured you had some up close and personal info to share on it.

Going to beg to differ - I actually have a few knives in CPM 3V and have had ample opportunity to test. The CPM 3V holds an edge better than any S30V I've tried and is very easy to sharpen.

Not sure what "proper stones" you're referring to, but a fine diamond to raise a burr, followed by 600 whetstone and a 2000 whetstone work quite well. Stroping w/ a knivesplus strop w/ white conpound (forget the grit) restores the edge w/o seeing the stones if I don't let them get too dull.

CPM M4 is a close second, also reasonably easy to sharpen. Holds an edge slighly longer but is prone to micro chipping if you get into the bones of an animal when cleaning. I would take either of those two over any of the stainless steels made.

David

My regular users are made of S30V, VG10, D2, ATS-34, 440-C, 154 CM, AUS-8 and early Carbon V. For my tasks they perform very well, but that is of course in my life's laboratory. I think that my knives being of different construction (folder/fixed) and used for somewhat different purposes makes for a challenging comparison.

So it seems our preferences are our opinions.

Good point. To clarify, I was talking about knives for cleaning animals. I have pocket knives in a variety of steels from ordinary to exotic - my favorite has S30V. It's not my favorite, because of the steel, but because it works so well as a pocket knife and at the end of the day, the steel choice isn't that big of a deal. Similarly my Dozier Yukon Skinner in D2 gets used a lot because it just works so well (and the D2 is easy to sharpen).

David

Going to beg to differ - I actually have a few knives in CPM 3V and have had ample opportunity to test. The CPM 3V holds an edge better than any S30V I've tried and is very easy to sharpen.
.

David[/quote]

S30V 4.00% Vanadium vs S3V 2.75 Vanadium

S30V 2.00% Molybdenum vs 1.30% Molybdenum

I am not going to argue with you about your knives you are comparing but I will say that the S30V was clearly not done properly.

It's a good thing you're not going to argue - particularly w/ your pissy little comments about S30V being done right, because it would make you sound like an arrogant ass that thinks he can read a composition chart and pick a winning steel by looking at it's moybdenum & Vanadium content. It's also an argument you can't win.

Funny thing about using knives to actually field dress game instead of looking at composition charts - you find out how they actually perform vs how they might theoretically perform, or how they might perform in a cutting test utilizing rope or paper or any of the other common test media. Here's a hint: Knives with chips in the blade don't cut as well as knives that don't have chips in the blade. Sharpening knives w/ chips in the blades always takes longer because you have to remove excess material to get them sharp.

S30V chips. It's a well known failing of S30V. The chipping and related workability issues were the reason S35VN was invented (and while it's an improvement, S35VN is still inferior to CPM 3V in actual field use).

CPM 3V doesn't suffer from that problem. It stays sharp, doesn't chip and when you inevitability get into the bone of an animal, worse cae it rolls and is stropped back into service rather easily. Perhaps you should try cleaning multiple animals back to back w/ S30V blades and CPM 3V blades and tell me which one actually works better. Or you could attempt to have a civil discussion where you don't feel the need to belittle anyone that migh have a different opinion than you and you could learn from someone that's been there, done that.

Still waiting for you to regale me with what high end "proper stones" that are required to sharpen any of these steels...

David

S30v may hold a good working edge, but it does not stay sharp sharp.

Haha yeah I have never seen an animal let alone use a knife on one. But with all your experience with game animals one would tend to think you would know how to use a knife by now! Funny that escapes you. As for stones you are all knowing you don't need my help.

So again S30V done properly will out cut S3V. Yes S3V is a tougher steel, nowhere did I say it wasn't! Hence why it makes a great fighter or Bushcraft knife.

The arrogant ass is you!

Your heat treater makes all of the difference, Brad is the go to guy .......

Peter's does great work but they work off the data sheet, generally.

There are sole proprietor's out there that are extracting every decimal point they can out of heat treating.

Phill Hartsfield was pushing A2 long ago, to points at the time no one was getting. He wouldn't give out his techniques and a lot of knife makers didn't like that. But he put time, materials, and effort into it. He kept it his trade secret.

Today there is a bunch of guys doing the same and are getting really good numbers.

But You the user need to know how to use the knife. It isn't a pry bar, hammer, axe, etc. Those knife makers can make you a knife that will take abuse. They just prefer to make tools for guys that know how to use them. In doing so they have amazing geometry, heat treat, and are using steels that most other makers just won't touch.

I'll stick with Brad.......

I have tested one knife in it. I should be getting my own knife in it shortly. There are some guys that either are using it or would be willing to use it in they're knives. The ones I am aware of are stock removal guys. I don't have all the material info but it can be pushed pretty hard in the heat treat. The lack of Vanadium makes it easier to sharpen. All carbides are not created equal. But between the softer (easier to sharpen) carbides and the harder HRC it seems to work really well. I don't see it as a game changer but in my opinion it is a very viable and capable steel when all is done properly. I think it is a very good choice for a blade that can be easily sharpened, can be used a little harder but still not abused, and still hold a great thin edge.

Thank You.

Holy f uck - now you not only know everything about knives, but you're such a bad ass ninja w/ a blade you can process an animal (multiple animals) without ever touching a bone! Please regale us with your expertise!

What? You don't have $hit to say about stones? All knowing? Don't think I said that, I plainly stated what I use, you're the one talking all the secret squirrel decoder BS. Really isn't hard to sharpen a knife, even the exotic high end alloy, if you know how. Keeping your mouth shut really is your best move, but I doubt you're capable.

David

Last week, S45 was the new, whiz-bang steel, this week it's 1.2562. I can't keep up with this all.

From time to time......




I get a wild hare and initiate a post which I create around a photo, and throw in a caption or a link to give the depth or legitimacy to the enterprise. This was the case here. An inexpensive knife, a cheap cigar and several "Jim Beam" items, (Jim Beam is my "daily bourbon"). It was basically a throw-away post that was a means of self-entertainment.

Evidently some folks took exception to the fact that the "Complete Guide" was not so complete. Oh well, my bad. However, as aforementioned in a previous post, "there never was a hoss that couldn't be rode and there never was a rider that couldn't be throwed. Knives and knife-making have been around for thousands of years. It's hard to contemplate a tome that would be the "complete" guide to knife steels.


Ya' know,

One of the things I've most enjoyed about this forum is the collegiality of the small community of folks that post here, and the congenial nature of most posts. It would seem that we have a common interest in that we enjoy playing with and displaying knives and other edged implements. I hope that does not change.

ya!

GWB

Properly done I bet 99.9% of hunters wouldn’t notice the difference in the field

I believe you would notice a difference. No, nothing that would have you jumping up and down, but I think you would notice. Is your season done? Any more animals to process in your future this year? Let me know, maybe we can work something out, you can try it for yourself.

David

Been pretty happy with the probably 5160 from the leaf springs I've been using.

Try what out David? I’m talking properly done up Ingram, double H, Howe etc. I’ve got em in d2, s30v, elmax cpm 154, 390 etc. I don’t let my blades get dull, maybe I’m missing something? Got one coming from Tim in m4, curious to try it out but I’m sure it’ll be like the rest

I am headed to Kauai end of February for sheep and boar if ya need something tested.. grin

I was referring to CPM 3V - I thought you were referencing that. No big deal, have a good one.

David

While things are cooling down, I pose a question.
Hopefully the answers will be from at least some actual hands on field use or testing

Given three knives of same geometry and of equal sharpness by same sharpening process,
1. One with CPM 154 at 61 Rc
2. One with CPM M4 at 63 Rc
3. One with 1.2562 at 67 Rc (or something very similar)

IF the CPM 154 blade would field dress and quarter two elk before needing touch up with a strop,
------ how many elk would you expect to do with the other two steels before needing touch up??????

Remember the only difference is in the chemistry and Rc. All else is equal.

I do not get to process many animals any more (Like zero this year) and have not felt up to cutting a bunch of rope.

Thanks in advance. Tim

Well, I have two blades of similar shape though not of matching size, one in CPM M4 and one in CPM 154 and I have cut up a couple deer with each. I will also throw in VG-10 and D2 blades that are of similar size and edge angle. I will also throw in skinning to the work and separating the muscles for slicing.

The VG-10 blade has done 9 (nine) deer for me and as such is the standard by which I compare. The D2 has done a lot of deer, but usually needs touch up after a couple-three CPM 154 is similar to the D2 for me, a little better IMO but I haven't got enough to base a judgement on if it is for sure or if I am just seeing a little more edge corrosion with the D2. The CPM M4 I have is still shaving sharp after two deer so my use seems to put it ahead of both CPM 154 and D2, and maybe a lot more. I am only guessing, but I figure I have at least two more deer in the CPM M4 blade before touch up.

None of these blades have been hardness tested to my knowledge. They are of similar hardness and I have reason to believe that the CPM M4 blade is somewhere near 63-64 HRC. All of the above blade were sharpened to about 15 degrees.

Never had a piece of 1.2562 in my hands, much less used one for anything. Sorry.

Good I’ll be curious to try Tim’s m4 out

Hey, Tim. I freely admit I just scanned the link in an airport, so didn't deep dive, but these are the specious declarations that jumped out 'Immediately":



This is a generic and antiquated definition grabbed off the internet for simple iron-carbon steel, used in the day to differentiate pig iron from steel from cast iron. Today we have over 3500 steel alloys and MOST don't fit this definition. Heck, the top rated alloy in the list is CPM S90V. It has 2.3% carbon...does that mean it isn't steel?



Bullsh!t. Crucible/Niagra produces 28 CPM products out of 59 offerings. Heck, we all know they offer 154 CM and CPM 154, D2 and CPM D2, M4 and CPM M4, etc...



Really? Again, the steels noted as most corrosion resistant in the dialogue have carbon above 1.5%.


I could go on (and on!!) but need to board a plane...

Ahhhh...BIS (Butt In Seat) and headed home...

Just wanted to add this doozy I just noticed:



WTF? Where did this come from? Worldwide, depending on the standard, minimum chromium in stainless is 10.5-11%...

I am just grateful we have such world class knife steel experts here, and that they are willing to share their wit and wisdom with us. Sad that these repositories of knowledge can’t agree on much, other than that they are all such paragons of knowledge. 😏

In reloading I have 8 or so books or manuals to use for reference. It is quick to notice that they
hardly ever agree on things like max loads, velocity, accuracy etc. So I interpolate the data and
proceed with caution looking for pressure signs, high velocity, accuracy, etc.
There are no absolutes here, you have to individually shoot em to know.

I take about the same approach with steels and blades. I look at the mfrs info and data, look at the
reports on performance, may use some of the stuff myself, cast a watchful eye on the claims of "total pos" and
"next to krytonite" and kind of interpolate all that to form my opinion or best guess.
If I personally use something and it works for me, it is good. If not, I first check if I was in error.
If I still think it is sub par, I move on to something else.

With knives/steels as with reloading, what works for one may not work for another.
With all the variables in getting to an end product knife I know there will be differences in the final
products and how it is rated by users and groupies.

Go forth with a grain of salt grasshopper.

I guess I’m happy as a pig in shiit to be able to work up 1 elk without a touch up..

Well, I expect your next knife to surpass that level of happiness for you.

Good deal!!

Nutshell.

With knives/steels as with reloading, what works for one may not work for another.
With all the variables in getting to an end product knife I know there will be differences in the final products and how it is rated by users and groupies.

Im taking the girls to Kauai in May. Where do you boar hunt there?

The one I got from Tim is a little bitty thing. About 2 1/2 inches of cut. I would bet whatever you get from him is going to have more cut and be a little heftier. I don't see any reason to even consider it wouldn't do a couple of elk. I used mine to cut everything that even remotely looked like it needed cutting for a few months and then resharpened to ~15 degrees before deer season. I normally shoot four, but this year I passed on too many early on and didn't like the looks of a few later, so I only had two to cut up. For what it's worth, M4 is not stainless and I did NOTHING to protect the blade and all the has happened is a little patina has started on it.

Several places, got a few buddies that have a shiit pile of dogs, fun times

This is no nutshell, and yet it does not mention Walter Sorrells:(
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_blade_materials

Tim Hard to give you an answer on your criteria for several reasons.

1) I have not broken down multiple elk in a season.

2) No to animals are the same, some are relatively clean, some not so much, Some have a lot of fat, some not so much.

3) What is needed touch up to you, might be different to me, or the next guy.

So I have used both steels including one of yours on multiple deer, coyote, bobcat, and bear. I can't speak for the 1.2562 as I have only gotten to test it on ducks, geese, coyote, in the kitchen, and some fish.

The two that I can speak for breaking down multiple deer and predators is the CPM 154 and M4. Before I get to that a few things to touch on with the two. Sharpening as in establishing an edge is easier with CPM 154 as is touching it up. M4 is a tougher steel that can take more abuse. I think a more fair comparison would be both steels at 61RC. Last M4 is not a stainless, apples to apples non-stainless is always going to have a better sturdier edge than a stainless.

So between the two in my experience based on your criteria I would say double for the M4.

1.2562 needs time and further testing but it looks very promising for a solid choice with easy of sharpening and edge retention.

don't venture into any of the rifle forums then!

If you are not a knife loonie then of course you won't get it. there are a bunch of great steels out there. Why live with only one?

not to mention handle material!































ya!


GWB

Very true GWB

Tim,
My 2 cents on the questions you asked earlier. I've never been able to skin and quarter 2 elk with a cpm154 knife until I purchased one from you. With that cpm154 knife I can skin and quarter 2 elk. With the M4 knives I've got from you I would say they can do 3 easy and 4 if I'm careful. Other 3v knives I have had I would say fall somewhere in between. I've had 3 s30v knives that I would rate below all the above in edge retention. My one knock on m4 is that is stains and discolors about as easy as any steel I've used. Doesn't bother me a bit, I'm not driven by appearance, and I live in a pretty dry arid climate. This isn't a scientific test, I'm not a metallurgist. Just based on my use in the field and my thoughts.

I'm using "elk" as a relative quantitative measurement. I skin a good number of big "game" animals each year ranging from antelope to hereford bulls with a good dose of elk thrown in. I compare these steels or knives based on how long they stay sharp. How well they retain their edge. When I am hunting or doing large volume skinning I carry two knives. One used for disarticulating joints, severing heads, splitting ribs, rough work etc.. The second knife is used for all skinning and skinning cuts. I just about refuse to skin with a dull knife and rarely sharpen, strop, or hone a knife in the field. I always carry two knives, partly just for redundancy but there are lots of other reasons. It works for me. Not to distract from the thread, just for reference when discussing elk per edge....

I really like m4 and 3v steel. My tastes in design and steel have changed a bit through the years and I'm sure they will continue to change. I've bought 5 knives form Tim they have all been great. GW your collection is outstanding.

GW
Who made the 5 knives in your 2nd to last pic, please? I like every one of them.

Not that at all. It's just that your opinion bounces around worse than a ball in a handball court.

"wwy" cuts up more animals in a year than all the rest of us together, so I really listen to
and respect his reports. Glad to hear how things have been working for you.
Also always glad to hear others reports too.

The question(s) I posed were searching for relative experiences, not absolute parameters to be followed.
IE: Trade elk for deer or pigs or??? Trade 154CM for ATS 34, etc.
Take some hands on experience and extrapolate a little.
Anyhow, thanks for the responses and I apologize if these questions should have been on a stand alone post.
Tim

Those are by Rocky Menefee, Rick's younger brother, as are the four in the last photo.

Whether he is currently making knives I do not know.

For a period, several years ago Rocky made a number of knives. I was fortunate enough to be able to acquire a few.

Here are a few more.







one of which I call my "Sweet Sixteen".










It is Rocky's interpretation of Rick's "16 Bore"



ya!

GWB

Thanks much. That Sixteen is sweet

What has my opinion changed on?

Well, since you asked... Less than two weeks ago, S45 was your new wonder steel. Now, you come up with the 123456 steel. I don't know if you realize this, but you have a very annoying way of posting. Most people, if they find new information on something, say "hey guys, look at this new steel I was just made aware of. Its properties are x, y, z". You post a cryptic reference and then play "I've got a secret" and make people beg for more information. You also denigrate and belittle anyone whose opinion differs in the least from yours. IMO, you have a bit of Aspergers since you don't seem to realize the way that you come across.

t

Yes S45V was just released this past year, not many new steels are released often. It looks promising and worthy to talk about. I didn't post anything about secrets. I don't make anyone beg for anything. I am sorry that you lack the ability to use google. Not very hard to find the information. What I really find funny is you clowns that say you don't like whoever post, yet you waste your time reading them and responding to them. Makes me think they have shown you something you didn't know. Now you are pissy because you don't like the way they post. A lot of weak thin skinned cry babies on here. Man up and add something of value or keep moving not really hard!

I come here to learn and just in this thread, learned a lot from MRK, wwy and Canezes9. You're just a sideshow. In your last sentence, you try to be another thing you're not--a moderator. It's interesting that a month ago, you said that M4 was an inappropriate steel for a hunting knife. Now, others say it works great and, all of a sudden, you're quiet. Speaking of which, you don't even know when you're insulting people. At the time you said how bad M4 was for hunting knives, half the forum had orders for them. So, you were basically telling the rest of the forum that they didn't know anything.

Haha

Any steel can be use for a hunting knife. Doesn't make it one of the better choices. M4 is a premium steel that shines elsewhere, that doesn't mean it can't do a good enough job at something else. Sorry the truth hurts your sensitive feelings.

Good enough is a personal choice.

You're funny

Serious question, in NO way argumentary, but, exactly "what" did you "just in this thread, learned a lot from MRK, wwy and Canezes9"?

With all due respect....I seriously doubt this...

First thing, I'd rather listen to the advice of someone who has practical knowledge and use of a product than someone who has a chart and uses percentages of elements to decide which product is best.
We have one customer at work who is an "expert" on guns and accurate shooting. He can spout off on best scopes, best barrels, best loads, etc. The said thing is that he's a lousy shot.

From above
""wwy" cuts up more animals in a year than all the rest of us together"

"With all due respect....I seriously doubt this..."

OK, so there are apparently some others who also disassemble over 100 animals
a year.

Geedubya is probably one, and I really respect his comments on field use of knives also.

Who else here????? I don't know, but I would gladly accept your field use experience also, even
if you only do one animal once in a while.

Tim

With all due respect to everyone responding on this thread, I have to say this.

1. The vast majority, virtually all of the people who cut up a LOT of animals use what I consider crap for knives. If well made knives of upper end steel were even remotely necessary for turning animals into food, people like Tim could make decent living making knives, and their product would be a lot cheaper. When you buy a $10.00 knife, you get a $10.00 knife.

2. The vast majority of people turning 100 or more animals into food in a year are employed doing so. Further, turning 100 (or more) animals into food is getting awful close to one every other day or a five day work week. That leaves precious damn little time to do anything else, especially when you think about the amount of time it takes to do so in a sanitary fashion.

3. The knives made for people employed turning animals into food are specifically made to be easy (quick) to sharpen and NOT harder to dull. Likewise, they are not made to take a particularly fine edge.

I, like most of the people who buy Tim's (and other makers) knives do so because I want the best tool for the job. Small differences add up to a lot more for me than a lot of people because while my skill at turning animals into food may be much greater than 90 some percent of the people who attempt that, it is nowhere near that of the people who do it for a living. An additional difference is that on the rare occasion that I buy commercially processed meat I am generally appalled at the quality of work I see because the people doing the butchery are more concerned with speed than quality and waste. I like pretty meat. I gift friends with wild meat and frequently hear that THEY like pretty meat. Pretty meat tastes better. The knives I choose to turn the animals I kill into food form a set of tools dedicated to doing specific tasks BETTER than other designs to help compensate for my lesser skills. Some, like a classic design fish filet knife approach the design of commercial butchering tools, but are crafted out of much better materials. It is NOT a small matter to me WHAT steel the knife is made of. That is every bit or even in some cases more the importance of the blade size and shape. Some blades of some steels simply do a better job for longer when compared to "better" steels by virtue of their design alone.

I know of two people here who cut up a lot of animals, but not in a production mode.
One just shoots a lot of animals and processes them as far as there is use of the end product.
Another works at doing a lot of animal necropsy year round.
Their knives work hard.
If they say a knife of such and such specs works great, I believe them.

There are others who pay a lot of attention to field performance also, but on a lesser volume.
I like to hear about limited use results just as well.

I know the why of butchers using thin, less expensive, lower RC and easier to sharpen blades.
They can touch up an edge in seconds between stations/next operation and throw the blade away
when it gets worn down past functionally useable.

It is all relative and a lot of personal choice.
One man's fools gold is another man's pure gold.

There is a time and place for lab data and a time and place for field reports.

Cut on!!!

Not necessarily. If that were true it would be the same all the way up the price spectrum.

There are a bunch of guys whipping out $200 to $300 knives that are less than desirable. As there are guys whipping out $150 to $250 knives that are pure gems.

A spyderco and Benchmade are pretty equal in price yet the Spyderco's are a much nice knife comparatively.

Another thing to take into account is do you want to put a high dollar knife through that type of abuse? I use to commercial fish in SE Alaska, I believe it was 1995 I was Trolling off the northwest side of Three Hump in some pretty sporty conditions. I had a beautiful Phill Wilson Fillet knife that ended up overboard. I would have much rather have lost my commercial grade Dexter Fillet Knife. Losing that knife still haunts me to this day. I have a lot of Phill's knives but that was my first.

Don't let a price fool you into how good or bad it is.