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Nothing wrong with a Drill Doctor. I have had and used the DD750 for about 20 years now. No complaints and no issues using it. Just take your time and pay attention to the set-up and you will be fine.

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Originally Posted by tedthorn
Never ever buy a Drill Dr.....they are not all that

I've been a tool and die maker since 1986 and I recomend you do it by hand.

Bench grinder or a belt sander.....both are fine

Learn the angles and how to move your hands to create the back rakes.....peactice

If you want to buy anything that would help you buy a drill point gauge for under $10


The gauge is essential for doing the same thing every time. I used to sharpen for a machine shop. The manager said my bits cut double chips better than when the bits were new. Get the drill point gauge! Get some reader glasses if necessary to see the tiny lines.


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Originally Posted by tedthorn
Originally Posted by wabigoon
An old machinist we used for years would just walk to the grinder, and do it.



That's how it's done.


Horse's wear a BIT

Drills cut holes



Drill bits are spiral end hardened 118 or 135 degree ground tools to cut holes in material. Drills today are mostly battery or 120 VAC powered machines used to drill holes with drill bits chucked into them.
wink

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Originally Posted by ChuckKY
Originally Posted by tedthorn
Originally Posted by wabigoon
An old machinist we used for years would just walk to the grinder, and do it.



That's how it's done.


Horse's wear a BIT

Drills cut holes



Drill bits are spiral end hardened 118 or 135 degree ground tools to cut holes in material. Drills today are mostly battery or 120 VAC powered machines used to drill holes with drill bits chucked into them.
wink


How many centuries has the brace & bit been in use...

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Originally Posted by AJ300MAG
Originally Posted by ChuckKY
Originally Posted by tedthorn
Originally Posted by wabigoon
An old machinist we used for years would just walk to the grinder, and do it.



That's how it's done.


Horse's wear a BIT

Drills cut holes



Drill bits are spiral end hardened 118 or 135 degree ground tools to cut holes in material. Drills today are mostly battery or 120 VAC powered machines used to drill holes with drill bits chucked into them.
wink


How many centuries has the brace & bit been in use...



I don't think I've seen a Brace and Bit in use since battery powered drills arrived on the scene. It's probably been over 25 years since I climbed an electric pole and bored a hole for a cross arm with a Brace and Bit. Don't miss it.

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Originally Posted by AJ300MAG
Originally Posted by tedthorn
Originally Posted by wabigoon
An old machinist we used for years would just walk to the grinder, and do it.



That's how it's done.


Horse's wear a BIT

Drills cut holes


What about a lathe tool bit, Ted? grin

Though I do get anal when someone refers to scale being a ruler...

I've also reversed the process by grinding in the opposite direction and twisting the drill as I'm moving down when I want an aggressive back angle. Either one works, grinding up is easier to master.


Yeah, you take a tool bit and grind it into a turning tool or a facing tool to use in a lathe, then it's not a tool bit anymore, it's a tool. You use drills in a lathe, too, taper shank drills right in the tail stock or straight shank drills in a drill chuck. The Cleveland Twist Drill Company makes drills. You keep your drills in a drill index. In a milling machine you use end mills, not "end mill bits." Referring to drills as "drill bits" is not machine shop or tool room lexicon. It's the way homeowner do-it-yourselfers, carpenters, etc talk. Sadly, you see a lot of such ignorance in shops today where a lot of so-called machinists hit the shop thinking they learned all they have to know in a two-year college program taught by people who learned everything they know in college. I had to babysit a couple of such kids in my last job. Took me a while, but they learned not to say "drill bit" around me. They learned a lot of other things too, like the difference between a screw and a bolt and how to read a micrometer or caliper that didn't have a digital readout.

Never mind me, I'm just a cantankerous old bastard that likes to see things said and done properly.


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And just BTW, the electric thingy, whether 120V, 18V or in that neighborhood is a drill motor. It spins the drill, a twist drill, spade drill, etc. etc., but just a drill.

I refrain these days from being correct or technical, or testicle about it, cause if you ask some one for a 1/4" drill & a drill motor, you're only gonna get a silly look.

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The thing with the Drill Dr is to not let them get too dull.
It works well for touching them up.
When I did it a lot......by hand was fine. About 28 years ago I got a Derek. Collet style double wheel.
$1200 and worth it. Sharpen any angle and then split point it.

Like a chainsaw chain. Touch it up before it gets round.

Then Take a Cratex and run itt along the edge to smith it out.

And don’t drill so dam fast. Lower the RPM and up the pressure......drills last longer.

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Originally Posted by gunzo
And just BTW, the electric thingy, whether 120V, 18V or in that neighborhood is a drill motor. It spins the drill, a twist drill, spade drill, etc. etc., but just a drill.

I refrain these days from being correct or technical, or testicle about it, cause if you ask some one for a 1/4" drill & a drill motor, you're only gonna get a silly look.



I guess you just have to have a little patience with some of us. I just learned what "queef" was today also.

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For those willing to up their game on drill sharpening:

https://www.newmantools.com/machines/drillpoint.html


"There's more to optics than meets the eye."--anon

"...most of us would be better off losing half a pound around the waist than half a pound on our rifle."--dhg

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