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With a flame temperature of 3200 deg F...I don't think anyone should be surprised what they see on the inside of the chimney. That said, I would like to see, on 3 new bbls, the difference between a well made hammer forged, a cut, and a button. From the standpoint of a machinist, I would suspect the button would look horrible...since after all is said and done, you are smearing steel. But look how well button bbls shoot. There's a lot we don't know.


Well this is a fine pickle we're in, should'a listened to Joe McCarthy and George Orwell I guess.
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Originally Posted by CCCC
Originally Posted by Tyrone
I got one of those for Christmas too.
I have a nice custom tube that hasn't been shooting. Took a peak inside and guess what? Little spots of rust within an inch of the muzzle! Yes, this is worthwhile.
Thus, what should/will be done about those little spots of rust? And, the result?
Well, I can tell you what I'm NOT going to do - chase my tail trying to develop an accurate load for it. If it won't shoot a 77 SMK, it's on to more drastic measures like boring out the muzzle or just selling the thing with disclosure.

I'm JBing it now. We'll see if it will shoot the 77 after that.


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Last edited by baldhunter; 01/22/20.

~Molɔ̀ːn Labé Skýla~
As Bob Hagel would say"You should not use a rifle that will kill an animal when everything goes right; you should use one that will do the job when everything goes wrong."Good words of wisdom...............
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I think I'll get my no throat 300WSM throated .050 longer and it may clean it up too.I noticed I had a drop in accuracy and I can see a little buildup on the leads
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~Molɔ̀ːn Labé Skýla~
As Bob Hagel would say"You should not use a rifle that will kill an animal when everything goes right; you should use one that will do the job when everything goes wrong."Good words of wisdom...............
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The one thing I've learned is what I thought is clean is not; This is especially true in the throat area where carbon is still evident. My cleaning regiment has been wipeout/outers foam, Butches Bore Shine followed by Eezox for rust prevention. I seem to be getting "most" of the copper out. However, the carbon is another story. How are some of you getting your barrels clean short of using Flitz or other compound?

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Flintlocke
Im old machinist too. I figure the button would compare the same as a cut tap and a thread former with the roll thread being smoother
Now can someone buy two identicsl rifles and compare barrel breakin procedure with just shooting it?

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I believe it was Kingston who started this borescope thing . I plan on buying one in the next week or so.
Originally Posted by devnull
The one thing I've learned is what I thought is clean is not; This is especially true in the throat area where carbon is still evident. My cleaning regiment has been wipeout/outers foam, Butches Bore Shine followed by Eezox for rust prevention. I seem to be getting "most" of the copper out. However, the carbon is another story. How are some of you getting your barrels clean short of using Flitz or other compound?


I can use wipeout foam and accelerator until the patch is clean and then followup with KG-1 and the patch comes out black or at least has black streaks. FWIW

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It's been said that you really don't want to see how sausage is made. grin

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Originally Posted by kennyd
Flintlocke
Im old machinist too. I figure the button would compare the same as a cut tap and a thread former with the roll thread being smoother
Now can someone buy two identicsl rifles and compare barrel breakin procedure with just shooting it?


Yes sir I could, already have 2 identical except twist model 21 Cooper 223’s. But why?

How are some of you getting your barrels clean short of using Flitz or other compound?

Gave up on the foam a few years back due to it not working well at all. To get rid of carbon I soak it in Kroil for an hour or so, nylon brush then repeat with Kroil and Butchs Bore shine 50/50 mix. Works great for me.



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I see they sell both flexible and rigid, and it looks like they might make more than one model of the flexible ( amazon), gathered by reading replies.

Any suggestions on flexible vs rigid and what model # you like

Allen

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No, I have the flexible and my understanding was that if you coiled it too tight it would break. My cure was to pick up some 1/2” pvc glued a padded cap on one end and a removable padded cap on the other. I then just Store it flat in the tube on a shelf.



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Carbon. Soak with Kroil to get under it so to speak or ability to loosen.

JB and even diamond lap paste are a main stay if I have issues. Not at all afraid to use them. Cannot ever say they have harmed a gun in relation to barrel life or accuracy. They usually bring it back, but if its at the end of its life then its kinda 50/50.

End of life I do find that, and I think chrono's are overrated generally, if I shoot over a chrono I've lost speed and hence may not be in the sweet spot so need to ad powder and possibly bullet seating depth if thats possible.

I have never tried the fire lap bullets. FWIW.


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Originally Posted by kennyd
Flintlocke
Im old machinist too. I figure the button would compare the same as a cut tap and a thread former with the roll thread being smoother
Now can someone buy two identicsl rifles and compare barrel breakin procedure with just shooting it?

You make a valid point. I don't know anything about formed threading but I imagine it is a somewhat gradual process. I put in a few days with old Chick Donnelly barrelmaker, in his shop and the buttons he used were very short, not much longer than the bearing surface of a comparable bullet. Anyway, it's all speculation on my part except for one time I was bored and cut a small section of new , cut rifled bbl lengthwise and I was impressed with the finish. Unfortunately only at 10X and I didn't compare it with anything else.


Well this is a fine pickle we're in, should'a listened to Joe McCarthy and George Orwell I guess.
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By the way fellas, I had a customer who was an avid class 3 machine gun guy, hire me to help him remove carbon and metal fouling in a number of machine gun bbls. We just used the over the counter Bore Tech Inc., "Eliminator". He had been fighting those barrels (9 or 10) for weeks with Sweets and others. You should have seen the stuff break loose in 20 or 30 minutes at room temps. He is a believer now and takes it to the shoots and attacks the barrels when they are warm. Some of his air cooled 1919's were converted to 8x57 to take advantage of the cheap ammo from the Balkans, and it was plenty hot, but it was the dirtiest ammo you could imagine. You might give it a try.


Well this is a fine pickle we're in, should'a listened to Joe McCarthy and George Orwell I guess.
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Originally Posted by NVhntr
I just got one last week and checked out a couple of barrels. I think it will come in handy for a number of situations. I got the $69 model with the rigid tube rather than the flexible cable.


Steve, I see that the rigid scope is only 22" long vs. the flexible scope being 40". Have you found any downfalls of having a rigid scope that's a bit shorter? I am leaning towards getting a rigid scope but wanted to see how you, who have a first hand experience with it, are liking it.

Regards,

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Originally Posted by yhc
Originally Posted by NVhntr
I just got one last week and checked out a couple of barrels. I think it will come in handy for a number of situations. I got the $69 model with the rigid tube rather than the flexible cable.


Steve, I see that the rigid scope is only 22" long vs. the flexible scope being 40". Have you found any downfalls of having a rigid scope that's a bit shorter? I am leaning towards getting a rigid scope but wanted to see how you, who have a first hand experience with it, are liking it.

Regards,



I saw it was 21". In any event I just ordered the flexible cable one that is long enough for about any barrel. Imagine trying to look at the throat of a Savage 99 with a 21" rod.


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Originally Posted by luv2safari
I saw it was 21". In any event I just ordered the flexible cable one that is long enough for about any barrel. Imagine trying to look at the throat of a Savage 99 with a 21" rod.


I stand corrected...indeed it’s 21” rather than 22”. Regardless you make a valid point.

Regards,

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WOW!!!

I got my $50 unit in two days, and it's impressive. It was easy to install the software on my 8.1 laptop. I had to tell it a few times to go ahead and open the site and the software. It's a snap to use. I got the flexible 40" shaft version and recommend it.

I'm not sure I am happy I got it, however. Every bore I checked had me shaking. How could anything so rough and messed up shoot so straight!


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that borescope is really fun to show how unclean the barrels really are. you will find yourself using JB bore paste a lot more often. Its the only thing other than maybe 40x to really get the barrels clean. you need an abrasive cleaner.

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Any of you guys have any trouble getting your Teslong bore scope to work? I hooked mine up to my older laptop with Windows 7, and it worked great.....for the first few minutes. I got it working, put it away until today, and now it doesn't recognize it. I took it up to my desk model PC with Windows 10...no luck. Could it be defective?

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