Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Handguns Who Shoots 40's Out Of Their 10 ????

I just traded for a Kimber TLE in 10mm, it came in a multi trade and I couldn't turn the deal down. I had what he wanted more than he had what I wanted. The gun is BNIB with 4 mags, I really don't care to add another caliber to the arsenal, but I thought maybe I'd keep it and just run 40's in it. I did a little search on the subject, common theme is head spacing on the extractor, and carboning up the barrel where 10mm will stick (not an issue with good cleaning). Anybody done it a bunch and have good advice. I trust this bunch more than Youtube Bandits.

I’ve shot a few through my Glock 20 with no problems. Even the CCI snake shot loads fed well. Never tried it in my Kimber 1911 in 10mm though. Don’t see why it wouldn’t work, though.

I believe I tried it with my Glock 20, just a few rounds to see if it really works, and it did. Then I bought a .40 S&W barrel for it, which is the better way to go.

I did it with a S&W 610. Worked fine other than the crud in the cylinder just like a 38 in a 357.

I've got a Stainless Target II and never have only because I found a .40 barrel cheap and it dropped right in.

If you go over to the 10mm Forum there are a lot of people over there that have. Only suggestion is to make sure you clean the chamber real good after shooting.

Bob

Shoot 40s in an early Delta, Gen 1 20, Gen 4 20 and 40 and RIA a2 FS , only problem is cycling, needed spring change outs, mag feed problems with some.

I've shot about 100-150 rounds of .40 down my Glock model 40.

Of course you did. What else would you shoot from a Glock 40?



Just kidding. I know the 40 is a 10mm.

Just hanging on the extractor - a 9mm will shoot in a 40sw, a 40sw will shoot in a 45acp.

just sell it and buy a 40SW, you can do a lot of things but why bother....

I fired 3 thru my Delta when .40 first came out. They went bang and fed OK, but didn't have enough recoil to function the action IIRC. Haven't felt the need to try again in the following decades.

Like shooting 38 spec in a 357 mag, you have to deal with the cleaning and potential chamber erosion. I'd either fit a proper .40 cal barrel or sell/trade it towards something you really want. Just because you can, doesn't mean you should.

I have done it to figure out what was what, but don't recommend it and won't do it myself any more in a 1911. It's safe in a Glock, but is not safe in a 1911. That's nothing to do with strength of the gun, it's because of firing pin/striker protrusion. In a 1911, a 40 S&W round will occasionally jump in front of the extractor during feeding, and the 10mm chamber is deep enough that a 40 case will stay in front of the extractor. A standard 1911 firing pin will reach the primer in that condition though, which causes the case to slam back against the breech face, resulting in what you see in the pic below.

Note the missing piece of rim where it was sheared off by the extractor. Cases that do this generally bulge a bit, and it's possible for them to blow out. Also note that this is a perfect example of case damage that looks like high pressure but was actually caused by excess headspace; same thing happens in rifles.

In a Glock, in contrast, the striker protrusion is short enough that a case in front of the extractor simply won't fire. It either works correctly, or not at all.



Look at the firing pin protrusion relative to the extractor position.

I'm sorry I never saved the photos off the now dead website showing many backed out and hammer flat primers/case heads like the one above. Bad ju-ju

"headspacing off" the extractor... with no idea if that headspacing is adequate and safe. No thanks.

Yeah, it always seemed to me like a bad idea, even if it works. I just tried a few to see if it actually worked, but quickly bought a proper .40 S&W barrel for my Glock 20.

TRH, where's your sense of adventure? 😂😂😂