Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Mausers and Military Rifles 98 mauser scope mount problem

Shim it with a proper steel one. .012 should get ya in the ball park.
If push comes to shove.
Probably your least expensive and easiest solution.

Aluminum can thickness is like .004 IIRC

Shims IMO are a band aid fix.....

The idea of steel or aluminum can stacked shims is bubba schitt in my mind.
But they will work.........

Not to mention the chance of a galvanic reaction between uncoated beer can aluminum alloy and gun steel.

I went thru this shim fiasco schitt with a VX3I 3.5x10-40 with lupy 2 peice bass and lupy low rings several years ago as their " solution" for a fugged up scope issue( I dont buy lupy anything anymore)

Other advice given on here is excellent also.
Wealth of knowledge for sure from guys.

The idea of a shim under a base would bother me.

It did when I did it.....seeing that gap under the base bugged the schit outta me.
And it was the lupy scope that was fugged up, their shim band aid fix was bullschitt for their fugged up scope.
Spun my wheels on that schitt.
Burn me once I'm done with your product.

Im really OCD with perfection, as I'm sure many others are also on here.

I would get the base,s 100% right and not have schitt bugging me.

Good luck with your project man!!!
I hope it turns out excellent!!!!!

After my intial post above.

Those bases look really really worn honestly.
Huge amount of what appears to be ground up aluminum dust all over em???
They look really worn in the saddle depth and fore and aft width.
Part of your problem might be tolerance stacking I bet.
Also total MOA in your scope you are using might be an issue.
All contributing to tolerance stacking.

JMO......

I picked up a nice sporter made on a Mexican Mauser action last year. It had a pictnanny rail which I did not care for so got rid if it and picked up some two piece bases and qd Talley rings for a scope I had. I could not get it bore sited. Upon some careful examination with my local gunsmith, we determined that the holes that were d/t'd for the rear bases were off center to the front ring holes, which made the rear base tilt to the right. I asked about filling those out of line screw holes and re drilling and tapping, but he took the base and machined some off so it rotated the base back into line , not quite 100% but very close. I then got a set of the Burris rings with the polymer inserts. I also got a couple of sets of their eccentric polymer inserts,, then re centered the reticule in my scope and actually got it bore sighted by playing with those eccentric ring inserts.

Sorry to be late to join but...
Didn't the OP say he was unable to adjust the point of impact of his rounds "down" to the point of aim of his scope - no matter how far down he adjusted the scope? IOW, that the rifle was shooting too high?
If I am understanding that right, then doesn't that mean the rear base is too high? That makes perfect sense if the radius at the back of the clip loading hump is interfering with the rear Weaver base seating correctly on the rear bridge, and thus sitting too high. Many people are talking about shimming the rear base - wouldn't that make the problem even worse?
If it were mine, and the problem really was the bullets hitting too high with the scope adjusted all the way down, I would carefully file a little bit off the underside of the forward portion of the rear base to see if that would allow it to fully seat on the rear bridge and maybe fix the problem. Only out a few bucks if it doesn't.
Then again maybe I'm missing the OP point but think about what I just wrote and visualize the line of sight and the line of bore.
Best of luck with it,
Rex