Home Forums Reloading Handgun Reloading 10mm

I’m about to take the plunge into handgun hunting.
I want to use a Glock 20

If any of you have tips or tricks for reloading and hunting with the 10mm,
please share.

Pretty much like any other auto pistol round. Use good bullets, decent crimp, fairly slow powder (like Longshot). I fooled with 215 gr bullets and didn't like them, going forward 200's are max for me. Others really like the heavy bullets, as with many things, YMMV.

Thank you sotg,

I’m going to shoot factory loads then reload.

I want to reload lead free pills.....

Should be fun

Due to the ridiculous 30-day waiting period here in Kali, I am at least 30 days behind you, but I am also seriously looking at a Glock 20 (Gen3) and it seems a worthy candidate for handloading. Lead-free required here as well.

I'll be peeking in and would be interested in your account of how things go.

Rick, and/or other Cali handgunners.

I moved back to this politically screwed up state in the fall of '16. Am I missing something? Should I decide I want another handgun do I need to wait 30 days? Or did you purchase another one recently?

A relatively inexpensive way to get some handgun experience is the HAM hunt for javelina in AZ too. Quite a number of units have leftover tags from the draw if one didn't get in on that. Could be tied in with other vacation plans if timed right too. Added benefit, if you find a practice "leaded" round you like you can hunt with it in AZ.

Good luck fester and Rick.

Now, if you guys could find me a source of suitable weight (length) .25 caliber lead free bullets for my 25-20/.256 WinMag Bowen revolver I'd be forever grateful.

Geno

If you go Gen 3 get the SF.

A couple things:

There is a 30-day waiting period between handgun purchases in Kali. I already have one in the works, which means I have to wait 30 days before I can start the DROS process for another.

There is a "roster" of approved handguns in Kali, and you can't buy new anything that is not on that roster (there are a couple of exceptions for LEOs, family transfers, and private party sales). Because the requirements to be on the roster now include microstamping, which basically still does not exist, no new guns are being added. Sooooo, for example, no Gen4 or Gen5 Glocks, plus a ton of others, are on the roster.

It's so onerous it's laughable.

Thanks Rick,

I knew about the roster when I moved back after nearly 20 years. Didn't realize about the microstamping crap though.

And I thought perhaps they might have changed the 10 day waiting period to 30 days without informing me.

Laughable is right. Having spent the majority of my life in this State, and having seen all the laws installed since '63 when we moved here, I'm surprised it's not a peaceful Utopia by now.....................but nothing seems to have worked, we still have bad guys killing each other and good folks too.

Good luck with your new purchase, when it goes through of course.

Geno

I have about 8 more days of the 30 day waiting period.

If I were stuck in an area which required lead-free, I'd load up Lehigh Xtreme Penetrators or mid-weight Barnes and wouldn't worry one bit about humane "harvests".

I can't imagine having to live under communist rule. I get ready to go buy a gun, I just walk in, pay em, and walk out with it. And the lead free stuff, really????

Glock 40 Gen 4 with RMR and Trijicon Supressor sights which help co-witness the red dot. Easier to find it that way. 7" KKM barrel helps with lead bullets, but you non-lead guys, I don't know much about the best way to go there.

Had a trigger job by my smith who is retired SWAT sniper with local PD and a trained Glock Armorer.

DF

NICE! I like that pistol DF, looks to be a hell of a hunting setup.

I have not started handloading for the 10mm yet but Running Underwood 200gr XTP ammo will try to kill a hog in a couple weeks on the Campfire hog hunt

NICE Dan, where's the pig hunt sticky?

From the standpoint of the trigger, even with the trigger job, your 10mm set up is better.

I think the Glock kicks less, or at least feels like it kicks less than a metal frame.

DF

Didn't post anything this year since we are full up with repeat members....but always have an opening for you amigo
I was hitting clays at 50 yds consistently today some at 100 yds but not consistenly

10-4 DF and Thanks Dan, you'll be splitting some pork ribs with that setup.

I'm shooting 180's over 9.2 gr. Longshot, which seems to be a good 10 mm powder. They're probably running around 1,250 fps, maybe a bit more out of the 7" KKM. I need to clock'em.

The far right is the 180 XTP, so far the most accurate. I did pick up some 180 FMJ from Rocky Mtn Reloaders for a good price. They shoot pretty good, not as tight as the XTP. From my cowboy action days, I have some 38-40 180 gr. RNFP soft lead bullets (far left) that I haven't tried yet, but should do OK in the KKM barrel. Sounds like a good way to shoot up surplus .38-40 CAS bullets. Loaded round is a truncated cone lead, but I don't remember which one, probably 180 gr.

DF

I used a glock 20 gen 3 sf for several years. I always had random reliability issues no matter what I tried. Glock wouldn't even look at.it because they know their guns don't jam.

I finally got rid of it after making sure my xdm 10mm shoots. I have yet to have s failure of any kind with the xdm 10. Now I wish KKM would make a long throated 40 barrel for my xdms. I have one from my glock I'd like to sell.

My favorite load of all the many I loaded is 200g xtps over longshot. I'm going to experiment more with be-86 because it showed potential too.

Bb

I have been using AA#9 under 180 xtp and 200 grain cast bullets. Its a case filling powder for a gen 4 Glock 20. The gun shoots as well as I can shoot. I could hit a clay pigeon with it at 50 yards, I can hit a 4 inch circle at 15 that’s about it for me.

I bought this G40 in 2017 to use for hog hunting at night. It has proven itself up to the task. Still using the same two factory loads, Hornady Custom XTP, and Federal Bonded JSP. Both are 180 grain. I can't see any reason to change.

I’m curious how the 38-40 bullets work out n the 10mm. I’ve kicked around trying them but the 180xtp shoots so good I’ve not got away from them.


I’m using 9.2grs of LongShot with the 180xtp. It clocks 1348fps from my 6” storm lake barrel.

NICE! 8.5gr of Longshot under a 200gr XTP is a hell of a hunting load too Men, it runs a bit over 1200 fps in my DW 5" 1911 10mm.

That's pretty much the same load I've been running. I think I was at 8.4g from a long loaded 40 case in a kkm 40 barrel. It was around 1170fps circ.

Bb

I hope to thump a hog with my Glock as well. Load is the 180 gr XTP over 14.5 grs of AAC 9.

That’s the same load I use in my Ruger 1911. AA9 and the Hornady 180 XTP. Shoots exceptionally well.

Old70

I have the Glock 20 Gen 4. I have dies and components but a little wary of starting the reloading. Getting the smiley face on my once fired brass and have read that Glock barrels do not support the case head. New to reloading auto loaders, should I re barrel with aftermarket?

Smiley faces with what ammo? Yours, someone else's reloads, or factory ammo? Some of the Underwood and similar hot commercial loads can be a little too hot in certain barrels.

The comment you were told about "Glock barrels do not support the case head" is way over-simplified, and also out of date. Pretty much all semi auto pistol barrels lack some case head support at the feed ramp; that's just how it is. Glock was criticized early on for having very generous feed ramps that were less supported than most other brands. However, in the newer guns they've addressed that issue with different feed ramp geometry, and their 10mm barrels now have similar case support to a lot of aftermarket barrels.

It's always possible you got a bad one, but I'd look at the loads first. Personally I would not replace the factory barrel, unless you determine a specific reason to do so, like needing a threaded barrel. The newer Glock barrels are better quality than most of the aftermarket options, in my experience.

Way back when case head support in Glocks was a news item I examined a number of then current production Glock pistols in .40 cal and I could find no significant difference between Glocks and other manufacturers. It is essentially a headspace tolerances issue, and individual pistols even from the same production line will have variation in that regard.

However, the problem was traced primarily to the design of the cartridge case, so it was redesigned, and newer prroduction cases were beefed up to better support the case head area... Federal brass was the primary offender.

I still occasionally see smiley brass laying on the ground at the range, but rarely. Your pistol could be on the long side, but without examining YOUR pistol it can't be determined.

The short answer is to just try a different brand of factory ammo.

If you want to reload, there is no problem, just start with the starting loads in your manual and work up from there and you will be ok.

10mm is a higher pressure round, so if I come across a piece of smiley brass I toss it out, as it has already been stretched in that critical area.

I generally resign once fired brass to less than max loads, and only load max loads in new Starline brass.

They'll work fine. Back in the very early days of 10mm the only cast bullets we could find came from .38-40 molds. I still have some 175 Keith-like SWC's saved from the 80's.

It's a damn good load Burley, I see a lot run the 180 gr XTP's in their 10mm's, don't know how they compare with the 200's, but can say I hit a 275lb buck deer in the last rib at 41 yards, the 200gr xtp at 1200 fps exited clipping the offside shoulder, he walked 20 yards, stood there and died right in front of me, I hope the 180's would at least do that much.

Well I didn't get to kill a hog with my 10mm nighthawk but did kill a Gemsbok at 50 yds and finish 3rd in the bowling pin shoot with it
I was loaded with Underwood 200gr hardcast and it let out a bellow and dropped in it's tracks

Nice.

How do you like your razor?
I’m looking at the viper, venom and razor.

Nice work! Sweet pistol too, looks like you've got it set up right.

Tell me about the frame treatment. Looks nice.

If you got Trijicon suppressor sights, they'll co-witness the red dot. I find it much faster than trying to find the dot without the co-witness irons.

DF

I don't think standard suppressor sights will get there with that setup. MOS setups even with the low profile RMR sight need special MOS-height suppressor sights, and that Razor is a bit taller yet.

Talk to Dawson Precision though, they were offering suppressor sights in various heights to accomodate different setups. You may need to measure yours first.

Nice shooting! A young guy at the range on Friday had one he had just bought, he was very happy with it.

Good info. My Trijicon suppressor sights co-witness the RMR. If other reflex sights require higher irons, then go with the recommended set.

DF

DF - I don't remember if yours is the MOS system, or milled into the slide? Does the bottom of the rear sight notch clear the RMR base, or are you just seeing the top edge of the sights?

I like it a lot. I bought it used from a member here.

A guy in San Antonio did it for a very fair price.

https://www.sinnermass.com/

It’s the MOS.

With Trijicon suppressor sights, I can co-witness the RMR red dot.

DF

OK, but that didn't really answer the question. I'd guess you're only seeing about half of the front sight dot, give or take a bit?

It doesn't matter that much, but MOS-height suppressor sights exist to work better with that combination.

I see enough of the irons thru the RMR glass to get a full sight picture. I see enough of both the front and rear sights to shoot it even if the RMR is turned off.

And, at least for me, I can find the red dot a lot quicker this way.

DF

Yup either way, seeing the irons helps for sure. Especially at first, when making the transition from just irons.

I've found (after carrying and shooting red dot Glocks for ~8 years now) that I don't look at the sights at all in normal shooting, but it took a lot of reps of presenting the gun correctly to get to that point. I do still use the irons occasionally though, picking up that tritium front in low light is one example. Even though I don't use the irons most of the time now, I still wouldn't set up a serious pistol without them. And by "serious", I mean a pistol that is for something more than just the shooting ranges and gun games.

I’m not there yet. The irons help me a lot. Red dot dances around, irons are always where I can find them.

Find them, you‘ve found the dot.

DF

I'm in contact with them. Will send them my frame.

I'll bet it handles as good as it looks.

Thanks for the link.

DF

It does. Did you send a photo of mine?

Yes, included a printed copy of the photo you posted.

DF

Wanting to start reloading for this pistol, Glock gen3 SF with a KKM 5" bbl. I have AA9, blue dot, long shot. Gonna use Badman 200gr coated bullets and new starline brass. Need actual confirmed loading data with what grains you are using. Looking for just below nuclear loads. Everybody post what bullets and what powder and what brass but never the actual grains that they are using. Now I understand the whole in my gun not your gun and Ymmv

My current and fav load is 9.2 Longshot, Fed 150 mag primers, 180 gr XTP.

I haven’t clocked it out of the 7” KKM, but it’s probably 1,250 or better.

DF

Stop right there. You're using a different bullet than most everyone else, and especially with cast bullets you MUST work up loads for that bullet. Do not copy someone else's load for a different bullet.

Bullet shape makes a huge difference in loaded case capacity, and that shape varies a LOT with cast bullets.

This is for Geno, Valsdad, who asked about lead free bullets for his .25-20 and .256 Win. There aren't any..... But that's not bad, because the "lead free" laws allows one with firearm chambered for a cartridge for which no factory ammo with lead free bullets exists, such as an older round, one may use lead ammo to hunt. So, I'm going to keep on shooting ground squirrels with my .25-20 and my 60 gr. Hdy handloads. E

The best source for that data is available on the manufacturers website.

If you stay within those guidelines you will be ok with your powders and new Starline Brass.

I seldom see a need for max loads in the 10...it's very capable round even with starting loads. 30k psi level loads are more brass friendly.

Blue Dot has worked well for me over many years, but has known lot to lot variations in burn rate, so I would suggest starting with Longshot.

LS meters well thru my Dillon 550 B. Blue Dot doesn’t meter as consistently thru a powder measure.

DF

I have lotsa Longshot and Unique. Anybody found a load with ProReach? Got a couple pounds of that too.

Don't have any, but it seems to be in the right burn rate range, just a tad faster than AA #9 and LS, slightly slower than 800X and Blue Dot.

I've read it's Alliant's answer to Hodgdon's Longshot.

Is it ball or flake type powder?

DF

Load data for handgun isn't available for Pro Reach.

But since Pro Reach is in the same general Burn Rate category as Longshot, it doesn't make sense not to use Longshot, which is Long proven to be a top powder in the 10mm with a lot of published load data all ready to go...

At least until a lab does some testing.

It’s a flake powder. Just trying to find a good use for the ProReach I have, as Longshot won the battle of powders in my 28 gauge shooting Tungsten shot.

But no reason to fool with it sans lab data. I have plenty of Longshot. I’ll find a good use for the ProTeach eventually.

That makes sense.

But, as a Loony, it would be interesting to see what that powder could do. Maybe one of these days, if Alliant is as reported, competing with Hogdgon, rolling out ProReach to compete with Longshot, they need to develop a broader range of ProReach info, including pistol data.

DF

With the quarantine I will have more time to find a good load for the 10mm. More trips more often to the range.

LOL, I have a new box of 100 count Starline 10mm brass, some Longshot powder and 100 of the 200gr XTP's, guess I best get it all assembled too ; ]

I got a 1995 Glock 20 new.
All I have ever used it for is overload work ups in 10mm and 40sw.


I worked on how to get the most power:
1) Aftermarket barrel with case support up to or close to the case web.
2) Best powder is IMR-800X triple compressed, much less trouble is #2 is Power Pistol
3) Best bullets are 180 gr or 200 gr.
4) Barrels may need to be throated.
5) Loaded ammo may bulge with compressed powder and require resizing loaded ammo.
6) Do not use bullets squished in compressing powder. Loaded ammo must fall into chamber and not wedge bullet.
7) Build triple recoil spring assemblies to keep slide from hammering the frame and your hand.
8) Use two magazine springs in parallel to compensate for recoils spring speed.
9) Use higher trigger force [NYCPD trigger] to reset with faster slide.
10) Throat chamber to take fat bullets at maximum OAL that will feed.
11) Use small primer brass. If no 10mm brass is available, use 40sw brass and a 40sw barrel that is throated.

When I work up to brass failure, Longshot never gets high velocities like Power Pistol and 800X.
When I work up, not enough Blue Dot will fit in the case to get high velocities.

I'm damn sure no Gunsmith and realize the 10mm came before the 40 S&W, but still wish the 10mm would have been brought to market with a small primer pocket and tough thicker web area as in the 40 cal case.

I don't understand why people keep repeating that myth. Try sectioning both a 10mm and 40 S&W case of the same brand. The case webs are exactly the same.

Sure, a small primer can make the case head stronger in theory, but if you're loading at the level where that matters (i.e. loosening primer pockets), you're way WAY past the max case pressure.

Already have, three drinking rednecks at a Buds machine shop, with only two there being machine shop intelligent, and I wasn't one of em, don't know if all the brass was of the same company make, but sectioned 9, 40 and 10mm, to my eye, and without miking, both the 9 and 40 looked a little thicker in the web area than the 10.

I started this autopsy after talking to the guys about the 40 cal kabooms in the Glock, and the poor guys with Colt 10mm's having to shoot watered down loads because of smileys, I load 200's to 1200 fps in my DW 10mm, not STUPID enough to load to primer pocket loosening, ymmv, I have 44 mag and 454 revolvers if I need more power.

I have a G20 Gen 4, 22# recoil spring, 6 in KKM barrel. I shoot 180 grain Delta Precision hollow points, 9.0 grains of Longshot, Starline brass, Federal primers. I get 1250 fps in the stock barrel, 1361 fps in the 6" KKM. I get similar increases in velocity between the 2 barrels with other loads as well.

Example-Factory loads
Speer 200 grain Gold Dot 1036fps/1128 fps
Underwood 180 grain Gold Dot 1226 fps/1306 fps

Handload, Montana Bullet Works hard cast 200 grain
1161 fps/1311 fps

Rather than running super hot loads, you can pick up around 100 fps and 100 ft lbs, simply by changing your barrel and not sacrificing reliability.

If you try it again and be more precise about it - you'll discover that claim just ain't so.

Half-azz input = half-azz results. Section the same brand cases, and make sure to section them both exactly to the center otherwise it changes how thick they look on the sectioned surface.

And comparing 40 cal Glocks to 10mm Colts is apples and oranges. Bottom line - the 40 S&W and the 10mm share the same case web, just different primer sizes. There are always variations between brands, but there is no specification for the 40 to have thicker case webs than the 10mm.

I have a box of 40 .400 Barnes 125 gr bullets
I want to run through my glock20sg, gen3, mechtech.

I spied Barnes reloading data.... I do not have the powder in the list.

Xtp-xp 125 gr. .400

I have not shot them, nor reloading for them.
Do you guys have some info?

What powders do you have?

Accurate# 9, blue dot, h110....

I’m on the hunt for power pistol...

Those powders are on the slow side for a 125gr. Blue Dot would be your best pick. I'm not a Power Pistol fan, but a powder around that burn rate would work. BE-86 is very close to being PP with a flash suppressant and seems to be available.

I agree on Blue Dot being the best choice out of those. AA9 is excellent for heavier bullets, but you'll run out of case capacity before reaching max pressure with lighter bullets.

Forget about H110 completely for the 10mm. It's too slow and too bulky for even the heaviest bullets. It'll go bang, but is not a good choice.

Do you have recipe ?

Me and the kid just primed 10mm cases and are itching to take the Mechtech upper out.
This thing looks fun.

Not for those 125gr Barnes bullets, sorry. If it were mine, I'd look at 135gr and 155gr data to figure out where to start (the solid copper Barnes take up more case capacity than normal 135gr jacketed bullets) and work up from there.

Loading 220 Gr Cast bullets with Blue Dot, trying to get an affordable load for practice to duplicate Buffalo Bores 220 Gr hard cast load.

The long heavy bullets are tricky to load and still feed right, using a taper crimp and plunk testing in my barrel. Load worked well in my Glock 20 but thinking my Springfield XDM in 10 mm has a tighter chamber.

Anyone use Lee factory crimp die in a 10mm?

Not much if any data on 220 cast loads, any data please share especially with Blue Dot. Thanks


measured my bullet diameter 200 gr cast .4010 220 gr cast .4018 jacketed 200 gr Hornady .40 cast bullets were local not commercial.

100% agree, and I'd add Longshot to your list.



I use the Lee FCD on all my semi-auto loads with great satisfaction. Take a look at the 10mm-firearms forum for a wealth of 10mm information.

Tried the Lee factory crimp die I like it all of my reloads that did not pass the plunk test in my barrel now do. Prefer it to my taper crimp die.

You pm box is full tried sending you a message

79S cleaned PM box