Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunter's Campfire More vehicle speculation

Like I’ve been saying, sometime before too long I gotta buy a car so as to have it paid off before retirement. This is a need rather than a want as I have never got all that excited about vehicles and my two high mileage (270,000 and 360,000 miles) Corollas still start up every time I turn the key

Probl’y gonna go Carmax, price $20,000 to $25,000 range, maybe 50,000 on the odometer. Need something with decent ground clearance and some towing capacity (seven years from now I might hit the road with a simple trailer). Plan to keep it past 250,000 miles.

Subaru is out of the question on account of their CVT transmissions.

That price would get me a decent basic 2WD Tacoma, or a bells-and-whistles AWD Rav 4 Adventure; better mileage, better off road, more versatile, similar towing capacity.

My question is this; in order to wring out all that versality and capability out of the RAV4 Adventure they have to computerize the heck out of it with respect to the drivetrain and allotted traction. They even have three different push-button drive/traction modes for sand, mud and pavement

I know Toyotas generally run forever, but how about all those electronic/computer doodads they use now, in spades on that Rav Adventure version, do those systems last forever too?

Seems these days they are like taking a trip to Vegas.

One never really knows if or when they will hit it big.

Vehicles have been all electricky and computery doodady since the 90's. Tacomas and Corollas.

Computers (actually simple integrated circuits linked to relays) are statistically far more reliable than mechanical moving parts.

But to answer your question, no, they do not last forever. Nothing does. The parts will fail eventually. The question comes down to how efficiently the maker designed their systems, how much the electricky parts cost, and how easy they made it to replace.

My opinion? Buy whatever the maker makes the most of. Flagship products typically get the best engineers, the best designs, and the highest production numbers. With high production numbers typically comes lower parts costs.

(For example, I'm a Ford guy... I stick to F-150's with either V-8's or more recenty EcoBoost V-6's... Why? Because they make the greatest profit for Ford, therefore best engineers design them (within reason), and the parts are plentiful.)

Get a bagger with the Evo engine.



Stay clear of the Twin Cam.

I have to think that 25k in Texas would get you a pretty nice 4x4 tacoma not just a 2wd. Thats the way I would go. We have a new f150, a 2018 subaru, and a 2006 4x4 tacoma. I find myself getting into the subaru more often than the others when going to run errands. The interior feels a little utilitarian but its fun to drive. It also does awesome in the snow. I wouldnt look past them because of the CVT.

Some computer controls are very efficient and make great sense, like the fuel/air intake systems and peak transmission shifting. The problem is the manufacturers are out of control and making everything way more complex than they need to be. A prime example is the Emergency Brake on our car. Instead of a tried and true lever with a cable, it is electronic and very complex. On top of that, it isn't as user friendly and useful as the old type that could be applied in a braking emergency while driving. I have a service manual for our car and there is a large chapter devoted to only the electric Emergency Brake. That should tell you everything. There are some GM cars that have the radio controlled through the BCM, and to replace the radio, you need to have a technician program the computer to recognize it. Ridiculous.

If you're concerned about the overly complex Adventure package on the Rav, why not just get a more of base model with all wheel drive. IMO all these extra modes and electro crap they like to add on and upsell these days are not needed and don't do much of anything. Maybe they'll be reliable down the road maybe not. But guaranteed the fancy complicate drive train model won't be any more reliable than a base model with an on and off switch to the all wheel drive and nothing else.

I wouldn’t be scared of the Rav. Very reliable and will serve you for a long time. I added another kid so I had to bump up from a 4Runner to a Sequoia. Your gas mileage would be enviable.

In that range you could be a nearly-new Nissan Frontier 4X4. Extended cab for the longer bed if you don't need the crew. They're still pretty old-school compared to the competition. Sure, they burn more gas than the more modern baby-trucks but they're pretty well proven. It should give you all the capability you could want.

https://www.hertzcarsales.com/used-...mp;geoRadius=200&normalDriveLine=4WD

Problem is the regular RAV4, even in AWD, is only rated to tow 1,500 lbs, the bells and whistles Adventure version is rated to tow more’n 2,500 lbs. Probly mostly to do with suspension setup.

just get a used dodge cummins turbo diesel. then you can roll coal on them bike guys.. lol

I'd rather have a 2WD tacoma than an AWD Rav4. Better payload, towing, and off road capability. I wouldn't worry about the fuel economy since you already have that covered for street driving. I averaged 16.5 city/19 hwy with my V6 2WD TRD. I've never driven an AWD Rav4, but I've taken my taco further than they should go with just the TRD elocker. If you could get a 4x4 taco, you'd be golden. A 4x4 tacoma will make a RAV4 seem like a subaru.

From what I've read about the selectable mud / snow / sand AWD systems, to my understanding all they do is electronically apply braking at various percentage levels front to back wheels for the different types of adverse driving conditions, so there's no true gearing changes -- just braking.

As far as I know, in smaller front wheel drive/AWD SUVs nowadays, only certain models of Jeep AWD SUVs offer upgraded versions with a 'Low' range option.

A good many AWD systems are totally controlled electronically, you can't turn it off, only come into play when wheel slippage is sensed, and don't allow operator to lock in full time AWD.

I’ll answer the question by not answering the question.

Why in the world would you stick yourself back into $25K worth of debt to buy a vehicle that covers a need you MAY have in seven years?

The way I read it, you won’t have a need for a towing rig for seven model years. How about sell both Corollas, put a few bucks with it to buy a 100K mile Corolla or Avalon, and you’re good for seven years. No car payment. Who knows what will be available to suit your needs in 7 years. That same Taco that’s 25K today would be less than half by then.

Did I say no car payment?

This

This! I have a 2004 that has 200,000 miles on it and a 2018 that has 7000 miles. I wouldn’t have anything else. I don’t drive the 18 unless I go to deer lease. I drive the 2004 and an 89 jeep I bought new in 89 to work. The 18 will be the last new one for me unless I wreck it or it’s stolen.

It’s expensive to buy a new vehicle, but it’s you getting all the miles out of that vehicle, not someone else. I’ve always thought buying a used vehicle was a poor investment for that reason. The 18 I have was 52,000.00 drive out. List was 61,000. If you can possibly afford it, buy new! Just an old plumbers opinion.

I used to think crossing the country on a loaded-up motorcycle was one of the coolest things on the planet, and did it more times than I can easily recall. Then I started doing it on a bicycle.

Motorcycles are for weenies, all ya gotta do is sit there and twist your wrist, which is prob’ly why so many bikers are obese, and if they ain’t fat they’re meth-skinny 🙂

I used to think Dodge Cummings turbo diesels were one of the coolest things on the planet, then I got into bicycles.

Dodge Cummings turbo diesels are for weenies, all ya gotta do is sit there and press your feet, which is prob’ly why so many who drive ‘em are obese, and if they ain’t fat they’re meth-skinny 🙂

Get a Camry.

I agree.