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Joined: Jan 2009
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All,

I'm looking at a 85% rifle, but the seals are completely shot.
What is a fair price to pay for it?

No accessories or anything but no one removed the sights either. The buttplate has cracks and will need replacing.

Thanks all


Work is what you do to finance your real life.....
BP-B2

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Heck of a nice super accurate springer air rifle. When I bought mine in the early 1980's I also bought the seal kit for mine from Beeman. Never have needed it...so don't know the cost to install. If Beeman is in business still, check with them on.

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For cost considerations, new guts can be easily had from Air Rifle Headquarters. Have rebuilt/tuned my own 124D and 300S and the former takes a bit more effort sizing the seal to the cylinder and requiring a spring compressor for R&R. Had a retired machinist pard CNC the piston skirt for PTFE/Delrin buttons on the 124. Slather the insides with Krytox GPL-205. Suggest strongly an SWFA 10X MQ in BKL Double Strap rings. Good times guaranteed... unless you're a starling.

OP didn't make it clear if this is an auction or private negotiation. If the latter, ask what the seller will take for it as-is. You might get a great deal....

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Its private, and I'm helping someone move the collection she inherited.
Shes depending on my advice to price these guns, so I want to make sure she gets honest information whether I'm a possible buyer or not.
I'm looking for the true "street value" of the rifle as is.

I spoke with John in PA, and depending on the level of work done I'm looking at $150 to $225 to have him do his thing.
What I need is a baseline value for a used one (good blue, a few stock dings, buttplate cracked around the screws - nothing all that bad) that is independent of my opinion.
Once I have that I can decide if I want it or if ill pass.

I recently saw one sell on GB for $515 and I was surprised that it brought that kind of money.
Even John thought they topped out around $400.
Is there anything I should be looking for that drives the collectibility / value?

Thanks again


Work is what you do to finance your real life.....
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At 85%, $350-ish less parts cost would be fair. If paying a third party to do the work, adjust to your conscience.

There are lots of youtube vids and other resources to R&R the seals. Use a 4' pipe clamp (with trimmed wood blocks to protect the rifle's metal parts and bridge the aft safety tang) to back out the end plug and to replace same after installing new guts. Hang on to the cylinder so nothing shifts/launches. Keep little ones away and wear safety glasses. The usual common sense. It's not hard and you'll know what's what at the end. Zip tie the trigger/safety assembly when removing so it goes back in the same way. Snip it on the way back in. Lots of hints to get you there in my two posts....

May The Force be with you!

IC B2


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