I bought one of these to use instead of chamfering tool. Just unscrew from the hanle and chuck it in a drill. If you think you might not want to screw up the threads just pick up a hex coupler to fit think it cost 20 cents.
I bought one of these to use instead of chamfering tool. Just unscrew from the hanle and chuck it in a drill. If you think you might not want to screw up the threads just pick up a hex coupler to fit think it cost 20 cents.
Yep, I did the same thing. Hornady primer pocket reamer and coupling nut from the hardware store, only takes a couple of seconds and it doesn't seem to be possible to remove too much. While the case is in hand, I flip it and chamfer inside the neck at the same time.
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I bought one of these to use instead of chamfering tool. Just unscrew from the hanle and chuck it in a drill. If you think you might not want to screw up the threads just pick up a hex coupler to fit think it cost 20 cents.
I have one by Lyman and it doesn't get enough of the crimp removed.
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Whatever works for you. All I know is that a pocket uniformer fits after, but not before. I am more concerned about to deep of a bevel which loosens the pockets and possibly enlarging the flash hole both of which I have experienced with the VLD tool on a drill. Just like everything else I use what works for me and just made a suggestion.
I use a 45-degree "countersink" for wood screws. It's steel and has lasted for years. I put it in a drill motor and only takes MAYBE one second to remove the crimp.
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I use a 45-degree "countersink" for wood screws. It's steel and has lasted for years. I put it in a drill motor and only takes MAYBE one second to remove the crimp.
+1 You beat me to it John. I've also been removing crimps this same way for many years.
I found my Lyman VLD chamfering tool removes primer crimps PDQ and doesn't cut anything but the crimp.
The tip of my Lyman "VLD" chamfering tool must have been longer than yours, it wouldn't even touch the crimp in a small rifle primer pocket before bottoming out. I ground it shorter to consistently chamfer the same amount, and that worked.
I picked up the Dillon 600 tool more recently though, and that really is the nicer way to go most of the time, but I still occasionally go back to just chucking the old L.E. Wilson deburring tool in the drill and going at it, especially for just a few pieces where it's not worth setting up the Dillon.
The Hornady tool shown above can work, but IMO is better after carefully stoning the straight edges so they don't cut the primer pocket wider. No reason why those edges should be sharp; I think that was poorly designed. After stoning the edges to protect the pockets it works well though.
Lots of ways to skin that cat.
Here is an automatic ejector modification on the Dillon 600 swager that makes brass processing quicker. It's easy to do with a couple screws and some rubber bands or a long spring. https://i.imgur.com/i1V5yCX.mp4