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Really like my Welded Koffler 20 ft Baybee for Lake and good weather ocean use, twin Hondas 91,s boat has no issues. Bruce Koffler told me the problem with his boats is the hull does not wear out people just keep repowering them. Kayak rack, pole holder , Solar panel mounted,Tarp it to keep top in good shape, or I guess its a roll cage!
For river use I use an inflatable Jet Boat
https://youtu.be/RFCDQHvJcYA

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Last edited by kk alaska; 04/03/20.

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A boat will a roll cage... frikken awesome... smile


Originally Posted by Judman
PS, if you think Trump is “good” you’re way stupider than I thought! Haha

Sorry, trump is a no tax payin pile of shiit.
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Originally Posted by kk alaska
Really like my Welded Koffler 20 ft Baybee for Lake and good weather ocean use, twin Hondas 91,s boat has no issues. Bruce Koffler told me the problem with his boats is the hull does not wear out people just keep repowering them.


Had an 18ft Baybee around for years, that boat was tuff as nails.
No roll cage on mine...:-(

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Originally Posted by Heym06
Originally Posted by TheKid
I’m reasonably sure, having experience welding, that my 1983 Gregor is stick welded. Just by bead shape and puddle fill. Don’t know if that’s good or bad, the little bit of repair welding I did on it I TIG welded. But it’s a pretty solid little boat. Pretty sure everything now is probably TIG or more likely spool gunned.

I have a buddy who used to build aluminum semi trailers, they were all TIG so maybe boats are too. The one guy I am friends with who does a little boat building does it with aluminum MIG.

Your gregor boat was welded with there mig process. They preheat in front of the weld, and post heat behind the weld. Gregor is a good boat, they bring a premium price, for used boats. I have flipped 5 or 6 in the last ten years, and always made a good profit. The 15 ft Gregor with the 20" transom, are sought after by guys with cartop carriers, in the Northwest ! They make great bay crabbing boats, for weekend users, and fish the high lakes well!


That’s good to know. Mine is 14’6” with the shorter transom. I bought it partly due to wanting that style of boat when I lived in AK and partly due to the high sides and deep vee helping to keep my tot safe from falling out and should the wind come up. I paid $1100 for it with a trailer and an ancient 15hp outboard. I had to replace the seats and transom board but otherwise it’s been solid as Sears.

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another Midwest boat...

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Originally Posted by Spotshooter
another Midwest boat...

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Originally Posted by EthanEdwards
Originally Posted by Idaho_Shooter
Originally Posted by boatboy
Following this

Keep in-mind not all welded boats are created equal

The blanket statement welded better is not really true
I can be, but not always

Hank

There's welding, and then there's welding.

More importantly, there's Aluminum, and then there's Aluminum.

Aluminum alloys come in various grades. Some hard, some soft, some brittle, some ductile.

Just as an example, the first boat I bought to take the G-kids fishing in was a little 14 foot Shasta with an 18 hp Merc. When I started drilling holes in the hull to mount rod holders and such, the Aluminum cut like butter. When we took the boat out on Brownlee Res and the wind came up in the morning at sunrise, the floor would visibly flex with impact of every wave. Within a half dozen outings, the floor had cracked at each flex point and water was coming in.

Brownlee is the first dam at the head of Hells Canyon. The lake averages maybe 1/4 to 1/2 mile across. But it is about 40 miles long. Each morning at Sunrise the breeze kicks up and produces six to eight inch chop.

We fished from the Shasta for two years, and periodically hit the switch on the bilge pump to remove the water.

Then I bought a 16 foot Lund hull. I built a console into it and put my little Merc 18 on it. Drilling holes in the Lund was night and day difference from the Shasta. The wall thickness was very similar, but the Aluminum in the Lund was much harder.

In the same lake, under the same conditions, there was no flex in the Lund hull.

You will find the same to be true of welded boats. Some are constructed of superior, expensive Aluminum alloys. Some are made of less expensive alloys, and are more prone to stress cracks or heat damage along weld lines.

Most of the better built boats will tout their alloys in their advertising copy. It pays to become familiar with the alloys, or at least know how examples of the boat model has performed for others before investing a large sum of hard earned money.
Or to sum it up, welds can crack and leak too.


Proper alloy selection combined with correct welding process can give some incredibly durable metal joints. HAZ in the weld joint can be reduced through lazer or cold metal pulsed welding, but base metal thickness is limited to around .100 IIRC.

Most fab shops won't be set up for these welding processes and I'd guess that most of the semi custom boats rely on heavier section metal and a spool gun.

I'd wager that .100 of 5083 alloy, welded with a low HAZ process would suffice for almost any use that didn't involve regular violent contact or extreme abrasion. If I were going to boat in extreme conditions, I'd feel better about heavier section metal and archaic welding process. Repair as needed.


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Originally Posted by Blu_Cs
Originally Posted by Idaho_Shooter
Originally Posted by boatboy
Following this

Keep in-mind not all welded boats are created equal

The blanket statement welded better is not really true
I can be, but not always

Hank

There's welding, and then there's welding.

More importantly, there's Aluminum, and then there's Aluminum.

Aluminum alloys come in various grades. Some hard, some soft, some brittle, some ductile.



.

You will find the same to be true of welded boats. Some are constructed of superior, expensive Aluminum alloys. Some are made of less expensive alloys, and are more prone to stress cracks or heat damage along weld lines.

Most of the better built boats will tout their alloys in their advertising copy. It pays to become familiar with the alloys, or at least know how examples of the boat model has performed for others before investing a large sum of hard earned money.



Could you please expand a little on what we should be looking for in terms of an alloy number or some other objective measure? I've seen metals categorized by number, before but not sure if I would recognize one being better than the other unless someone pointed it out. Thanks!



No, I do not know the alloy numbers. I see some of the best known makers advertising alloy ID.

In my search I have depended upon performance evaluations. In the market I am surveying no one has ever accused Duckworth of using inferior materials or construction. Northwest Jet, Weldcraft, Alumaweld, and Miller Marine are recognized as durable boats which can endure the repeated pounding of adverse conditions.


People who choose to brew up their own storms bitch loudest about the rain.
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Originally Posted by irfubar
A boat will a roll cage... frikken awesome... smile


Yes, and you roll the boat back in and take off.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=21qrnID0Ab8


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Originally Posted by bearhuntr
Originally Posted by flintlocke
In 24 years of ocean service, crabbing in December also, my old riveted Starcraft has never had a loose rivet. The Pacific Coast north of Cape Mendocino and south of Coos Head is not very pacific. The access to open ocean is over bars. The Rogue River bar at Gold Beach is legendary. The Starcrafts are the proven boats, I believe of the Walleye fisherman on the Great Lakes which I believe blows up as steep and quick as any water in North America.
The technology of tig welding has improved over the years, but I am not aware of any welded aircraft, I personally have ridden tens of thousands of miles in Alaska and the Aleutians in my company's DC-3, it was 50 years old when they bought it.
Finally. Someone gets it. Tip of the hat sir...




Wrong

The reason for a riveted hull over a welded comes down to weight. If you want or need a light boat you go with a riveted hull, if weight isn't a factor and you want less worries you go welded. Edit: Second reason for a lot of people is price. A riveted hull is cheaper in general terms.

Aircraft structures are not welded because of load distribution. A weld the load is all in one place directly on the weld. A riveted (to include all fastener types) structure transfers the load to the entire structure. Seams are overlapped and in most cases terminate at a Bulkhead, Longerons, strings, stiffeners, and other heavy aircraft fittings. Show me a cargo ship that isn't welded!

All fasteners loosen over time from both load and temperature changes. Boat hull rivets absolutely loosen and leak!

Last edited by MontanaCreekHunter; 04/03/20.

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Weld or riveted?

I have no use for rivets

.100 thick and a 40 horse tiller handle pump

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What I find interesting (and it’s all about welds) is how the coastguard make Tracker lower it’s transom weights, and carry weights on their big jon boats after they increased the hull thickness.

This happened about 4-5 years ago when I was buying my Lund... as it turns out the Tracker thick hulls were busting the welds because the new thick aluminum was too strong and wasn’t flexing so it was popping the old welding tech... I’m not sure if they fixed it or not.

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I've been running Lunds for 55 years with no leaky or loose rivets.

I think Boeing and Cessna are still using rivets.

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Originally Posted by VernAK
I've been running Lunds for 55 years with no leaky or loose rivets.

I think Boeing and Cessna are still using rivets.


And you are full of it! I have run Lunds in both Alaska and the East Coast they leak!

I laid out the reason aircraft are riveted.


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It's the guy with the elevated floor and the bilge cycling on occasion and he doesn't know why syndrome.

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I have spent a good amount of time on OLDER _. Sea racks, Crestliners, Lund, and Allwelds, hell even a Tracker (unusual for a guide to have a tracker boat).

I thought the sea ark plug was the live well it had so much water in it... it really caused me some “holy crap” moments.
The crestliner had soaked foam and was so heavy it wasn’t funny.
The tracker had some in it... As well as the all weld.
The lund was dry..

BTW - any resort boat being used like a rental, or an outback boat used in alaska is going to get the snot beat out of it.

90% of guys who buy new boats don’t beat the crap out of them ... so these are two different situations.

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pressed as much as possible and welded panels the rest. you could rivet the seats i suppose.


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Having owned several of each I have come to favor welded, the bilge pumps get less of a workout


Originally Posted by Judman
PS, if you think Trump is “good” you’re way stupider than I thought! Haha

Sorry, trump is a no tax payin pile of shiit.
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This one is a Sea Nymph welded hull and doesn't leak a drop. It's my redneck bass boat... not sure it would be ideal for the Midwest walleye lakes though?


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Originally Posted by Judman
PS, if you think Trump is “good” you’re way stupider than I thought! Haha

Sorry, trump is a no tax payin pile of shiit.
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Riveted vs.. welded is like the best rifle or revolver for..................

Its geography, riveted don't care about a sand bar, but run that same hull over a rock bar in Ky. & all the rivet heads on the bottom just got sheared of.

Hint grin

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