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Obenauf's LP for me as well. I've been using it for years. It waterproofs my boots and conditions the leather without damaging the rubber rands. I see no reason to change.


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Obenauf's is THE schitt.


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Originally Posted by kingston
Originally Posted by Dansy
Sorry to dig this up but had to comment. I have worked in the bush for the past 20 years and have tried most everything out there, the biggest problem to balance is waterproofing <> leathers ability to breathe. Usually there is a tradeoff. I found birch tar oil a few years ago and wish I would have known about it 20 years ago. It gives the same waterproofing as a wax but lets the leather breathe, never have sweaty feet problems using it. It also makes the leather quite resistant to molds, fungus, bacteria which is a nice bonus as I have a habit of forgetting my boots for during spring breakup in my dry bag! Has an awesome smoky smell to boot!


Do you mean like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Russian-Bear...id=1585964183&sr=8-2#customerReviews


Looks pretty similar but you should make sure that it notes it has been thickened some for leather. Most of the time it comes very thin like water which works but not as good then if a thicker one. I get mine here:
https://otzispouch.ca/product/birch-tar-oil-for-wood-and-leather-100ml/

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Originally Posted by hanco
Originally Posted by kingston
Originally Posted by SuperCub
Originally Posted by hanco
I melt a toilet wax ring, coat boots, lasts several years.

I've been doing that for years on both work boots and hunting.

Use a heat gun to drive it into the leather. Works great with no ill effect to the leather. Cheap as dirt as well.


What is the composition of the material in wax ring?


Vegetable and petroleum waxes.

I'd try straight up bees wax but it's hard to get these days. Ironic for me as my father kept bees and I could have had all the wax I wanted.

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Just don't use silicone oil. We had barrels of the stuff to lubricate machinery at work and some of the outdoor types thought that it would make great boot oil. Sorel boots were the rage for cold weather back then and you know how stiff that leather is on those Sorel uppers. Well, that silicone oil turned that leather into mush with virtually no ankle support left what so ever.


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Too much lube? laugh

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Being a DIYer and Scotch and Welsh I started making my own. Basic formula is 1/3 each of: Beeswax, Pine Tar, & Neetsfoot oil, if this is too thick you can add turpentine after it is off the stove. You can add Carnuba wax for more durability and the designer stuff like vitamin E oil, bee propalis, cedar oil, and if you want it to soften the leather less use half linseed oil and half neetsfoot, the food grade stuff is the best for this. The pine tar makes it sticky so if you are not going to heat the boots then reduce the pine tar. After the heating of the boots wipe and buff them off well. If you want some color add some shoe polish.

Pure beeswax is the ticket for the best waterproofing but the home brew still allows the leather to breath and to not dry out.

For field treatment just get a tube of whatever is available and apply each night with a limited amount of campfire heat. I have found two coats of beeswax to last for about two years with Obenaufs or the home brew used once or twice a year in between, but I have not been in heavy Scree lately.

Originally Posted by Dansy
Too much lube? laugh


Better to grease your boots instead.


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Originally Posted by Tejano
Being a DIYer and Scotch and Welsh I started making my own. Basic formula is 1/3 each of: Beeswax, Pine Tar, & Neetsfoot oil, if this is too thick you can add turpentine after it is off the stove. You can add Carnuba wax for more durability and the designer stuff like vitamin E oil, bee propalis, cedar oil, and if you want it to soften the leather less use half linseed oil and half neetsfoot, the food grade stuff is the best for this. The pine tar makes it sticky so if you are not going to heat the boots then reduce the pine tar. After the heating of the boots wipe and buff them off well. If you want some color add some shoe polish.

Pure beeswax is the ticket for the best waterproofing but the home brew still allows the leather to breath and to not dry out.

For field treatment just get a tube of whatever is available and apply each night with a limited amount of campfire heat. I have found two coats of beeswax to last for about two years with Obenaufs or the home brew used once or twice a year in between, but I have not been in heavy Scree lately.

Originally Posted by Dansy
Too much lube? laugh


Better to grease your boots instead.



Thing I don't like about waxes is they block the block the leathers ability to breathe, why I fell in love with the birch tar. Waterproofs as good or better and no sweaty feet. Last time I used neatsfoot a bear stole my boots and chewed them lol.

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Originally Posted by Dansy
Thing I don't like about waxes is they block the block the leathers ability to breathe,


How much does untreated leather "breathe" anyways? Even if it does "breathe', adding any sort of waterproofing will not improve this ability.

I can't see it being much different either way.

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Originally Posted by SuperCub
Originally Posted by Dansy
Thing I don't like about waxes is they block the block the leathers ability to breathe,


How much does untreated leather "breathe" anyways? Even if it does "breathe', adding any sort of waterproofing will not improve this ability.

I can't see it being much different either way.


It does make a big difference. Untreated leather actually breathes pretty well. If I work a day in the bush in warm weather in untreated leather or leather treated with birch tar oil I have dry feet at the end. I use wax or grease on the leather my feet sweat all day long which is no fun at all.

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Anyone fount that Mink Oil is difficult to find these days?

Kiwi changed to "conditioning oil" which doesn't smell like mink oil..


-OMotS



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The home brew does allow the leather to breath some, pure wax no. I will have to try the Birch tar, I like the smell and less sticky than pine tar. This is what the sailors used on their oil skins and sails, rigging and practically everything that would not run away fast enough. This is why sailors are called Tars.

Most gore-tex boots with a sewn on mid sole can benefit from waxing. If the gore-tex is still working then the rest of the boot would just get a preservative treatment

"Anyone fount that Mink Oil is difficult to find these days?"

There is plenty online. I only use it on really dry leather and prefer bear grease when I have it. Mink oil can over soften some leathers and weakens linen stitching, but most boots have synthetic thread on them now.

Last edited by Tejano; 04/05/20.

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Originally Posted by Mule Deer
One of the leather treatments I have used that keeps leather waterproof a LONG time, and also is a great treatment, is Montana Pitch-Blend, a combination of beeswax, mink oil and pine pitch. [/quote[quote=red_alder_ranch]I use Huberd's Shoe Grease, primary ingredients are Pine Tar and Beeswax. I heat it up on the woodstove, put it on hot, let it soak in and dry, then rub off the excess with a rag, then repeat. Works great.

Yep the original northwest loggers boot grease! Works as well as any other brand ive tried!

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My brother, who had taken four different month long treks in Nepal (twice)l, Pakistan (glacier fields) and Andes mountains swears by Nikwax. It was recommended to him by the various guides and has never failed him.

I think that is a good testimonial for Nikwax.


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I've been using a mix sold by Schnee's for years that a mix of mink oil and pine pitch, called Montana Pitch Blend. It works great.


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Thanks Tejano,
My oldest pair of boots was deeply and religiously treated with mink oil and are still in fine shape. As well as a belt of the same vintage which has taken quite a bit of girth stress over the decades..
Recently I was looking to treat a newly crafted sling and I had to look all over the place before I finally found a shoe repair/leather craftsman that had some by Angelus Polish co. (From Rick's home town), (It is still unproven in my book at this point) I have used beeswax, silicone, Nikwax, Neatsfoot and ringwax over the years for various boots. I think the quality of the boot has a lot to do with longevity..but I became trained to associate the odor of Kiwi mink oil with quality I suppose..


-OMotS



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Quote: ( unnamed) "been prtty deep in the cooler todaay "

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Originally Posted by Dansy
Originally Posted by SuperCub
Originally Posted by Dansy
Thing I don't like about waxes is they block the block the leathers ability to breathe,


How much does untreated leather "breathe" anyways? Even if it does "breathe', adding any sort of waterproofing will not improve this ability.

I can't see it being much different either way.


It does make a big difference. Untreated leather actually breathes pretty well. If I work a day in the bush in warm weather in untreated leather or leather treated with birch tar oil I have dry feet at the end. I use wax or grease on the leather my feet sweat all day long which is no fun at all.

I'm not disagreeing with you, but haven't noticed a big difference either way. My feet tend to sweat in everything so maybe it's just me.

I rotate between two pairs of work boots on a daily basis to let them dry out.

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Originally Posted by OldmanoftheSea
Anyone fount that Mink Oil is difficult to find these days?

Maybe they relabeled it to appease the rabid leftys who abhor using mink for pelts or anything else.

Originally Posted by OldmanoftheSea
Kiwi changed to "conditioning oil" which doesn't smell like mink oil..

Ever smelt real mink oil (fat)? I wouldn't want my boots to smell like that. I grew up on a small mink operation my dad owned. I've skinned 1000s of mink in my life. They stink! smile

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Regardless of treatment, I do my applications on a sunny, hot, July or August day by first placing the boots out in direct and very warm sunlight. Not the type of weather one is typically thinking of snow seal or whatever, but they really warm up then and absorb stuff.

Once had a distant neighbor insist black bear grease with the cat's ass for my Whites going so far as to do an application for me. Smelled like road kill for about 2 months. Never again.

Last edited by 1minute; 04/05/20.

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Originally Posted by SuperCub
Originally Posted by OldmanoftheSea
Anyone fount that Mink Oil is difficult to find these days?

Maybe they relabeled it to appease the rabid leftys who abhor using mink for pelts or anything else.

Originally Posted by OldmanoftheSea
Kiwi changed to "conditioning oil" which doesn't smell like mink oil..

Ever smelt real mink oil (fat)? I wouldn't want my boots to smell like that. I grew up on a small mink operation my dad owned. I've skinned 1000s of mink in my life. They stink! smile


If you work in bear country keep those boots out of the tent and where the bears can't get them. Mine were stolen out of the back of my truck and absolutely demolished, I am pretty sure it was the neatsfoot oil that he was smelling, my feet aren't that bad!

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