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I recently picked up a Kimber Sporterized M/96 Swedish Mauser, and ordered a Timney #203 Mauser FM95-6 adjustable trigger. The trigger was listed as compatible with a Swedish 96, but I simply cannot get the trigger to work with my rifle. The bolt will cock correctly on closing, but you cannot get the sear to drop the firing pin. Looking through the view hole on the side of the trigger, you can physically see that the sear isn't engaging the trigger while cocked. What am I missing here? I have a feeling that I have the wrong trigger, but can't confirm until I call Timney tomorrow.

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I tried a Boyds (similar) trigger in my Kimber and had a problem getting it to work but I put is aside to work on other projects I'll pull it out in a day or two to see if I can get it working and will let you know what I find.


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z1r Offline
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Check to see if the sear is getting hung up in the slot. The slot in the receiver is round, the sear square, they sometimes bind and the slot needs attention.

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z1r Offline
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Kimber I see.

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las Offline
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96, I see... Paul didn't get it right until '98.

Last edited by las; 04/06/20.

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I still haven't figured this out, currently waiting for Timney to give me a call back...

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Originally Posted by las
96, I see... Paul didn't get it right until '98.


I agree that the 1898 style actions are an improvement over pre-1898 style actions, but the Sweds made a great action, the best of the pre-1898 style actions IMO, and the only thing that they don't do as well as the 1898 style actions is handle escaping gas because of the smaller gas shield.

I've rebarreled at least a dozen Swedish Mausers and prefer the late production Husqvarnas made in the 1940's for higher pressure cartridges than the 6.5x55. There are three things that I always do on the reworked Sweds; replace the trigger with a Bold or Timney that has an integral safety, install a larger, commercial style, gas shield, and a Dayton-Traister Cock-On-Opening kit. I currently have 8 small ring Sweds, 6 military actions and 2 commercial Husqvarna 640s, that are chambered in 257 Roberts, 6.5x55 (x5), and 8x57 (x2).

I don't recall ever having the problem that the OP is having, but wonder if the Sweds that Kimber sporterized were disassembled and put back together with a mix of parts from different rifles.

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No luck from Timney, didn't hear back from them today. I'll play around with it a little this evening, and see if I can figure it out. Looking at it before, I *believe* the issue is the cocking assembly itself isn't pushing the sear down far enough to engage the trigger....unless I am completely missing something, I don't think this is the correct trigger assembly for my rifle.

In other news, I did get to shoot the rifle a little today. Shooting older Prvi/PPU ammo, it was averaging around 1.25" for 3 shots. I didn't get a chance to chrono the ammo, but I definitely have to get the trigger solved...that 2 stage military trigger isn't exactly crisp!

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Can't see your cocking piece but if it is not a flat bottom one that trigger won't work, It could also be the slot in the action being causing the trigger to bind


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z1r Offline
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More than likely the front of the trigger sear is hitting the slot it protrudes through in the receiver. When the sear is engaged by the CP, it pushes forward slightly, see if it is contacting the receiver. It's all spelled out in the instructions. If there is interference, relieve the slot accordingly. Or, send it to a professional.

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Originally Posted by z1r
More than likely the front of the trigger sear is hitting the slot it protrudes through in the receiver. When the sear is engaged by the CP, it pushes forward slightly, see if it is contacting the receiver. It's all spelled out in the instructions. If there is interference, relieve the slot accordingly. Or, send it to a professional.


I'll have to check it again once I get back off work. I tried calling Timney again, still unable to reach anyone on the phone.


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