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NVhntr Offline OP
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I bought a Crossman Quest 1000x .177 cal. springer air rifle with a 4x scope mounted on it several years ago. I shot it some but was disappointed with the accuracy and put it away. I also have a Crossman 766 pump rifle that I've had for over 40 years that is much more accurate.

Well, with this covid quarantine BS keeping me at home I got bored and pulled out the Quest again to give it a try. I have read up some on how shooting a springer takes a different technique than the other air rifles and I also got some advice from a BIL who shoots a springer gun. After trying out the pointers I'm seeing better accuracy than before, about 1" - 1-1/4" at 15 yards.

I have 2 different types of pellets, RWS Diablo Basics which are a flat nose 7 gr., and Gamo Magnums which are pointed and don't say the grain weight. The Gamo shoot the best but I'm about out of them and I see that Gamo doesn't make those same pellets anymore.
I plan on using this rifle mostly for backyard pest control, mainly pigeons, collared doves, and the occasional ground squirrel.
What brand/type of pellets have you found that you like in a springer gun?
Any tips on shooting techniques also appreciated.


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One of my springers is a Crosman Storm XT which I think is almost the same gun as your Quest. I've had very good luck with JSB Exact pellets but they are expensive. The cheap Crosman Premier pellets that I buy at Wal-Mart also work very well for me but all Springer air guns are different so your best bet would be to experiment with different brands until you find what works well. Lots of pellets listed on Amazon.

Spring piston air rifles are hold sensitive. Some more than others. They say hold the rifle loosely. Don't push it to hard against your shoulder and don't grip the forend to hard. If shooting off the bench rest the forend on the same spot every shot. This seems to help me.

Lastly about every 500 shots put about three drops of silicone based oil in the compression chamber. Don't use regular gun oil because as I said in another thread petroleum based gun oils ignite when the spring air gun is fired and this can damage the seals. Check out Airgunnation.com. They have lots of good tips on shooting and maintaing air guns.

I almost forgot. If you are having accuracy problems check your screws on the rifle. I've found screws loosen up on new springers do to the vibration of the action when fired. A little bit of blue locktite will solve the problem.

Last edited by IMR4350; 04/19/20.
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NVhntr Offline OP
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Thanks for the tips IMR!
I'll look for some of those JSB Pellets and give them a try.


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As said above buy you some good pellets, JSB, H/N or other high quality pellets..Your gun may shoot the cheap Wal Mart Crosman domed pellets well also, I have 3-4 air rifles that really like them its just hit or miss on quality of pellets tin to tin.. our best bet is to buy a better grade pellet, air rifles are like any other gun they will like some pellets and hate others..
Main thing when shooting springers is to use the same grip, cheek weld and forearm pressure every time, change any of these by much and poi will usually change.
Also tuning a air rifle will also aid in accuracy, look up tuning spring powered air guns alot of videos on doing them probably even yours.

Last edited by dbowling; 04/20/20.

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I used to buy Crosman domed pellets 500 per box and got the same die lot number for consitency. Mostly bought the heavies.
I spoke with the European airgun champ at the time and these were the same pellets of choice for him.
Consistant seating depth helps accuracy too.
Some guys take the time to roll the pellets on a cloth soaked in airgun oil or equivalent.

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NVhntr Offline OP
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Good info guys.
I've ordered some H&N pellets to try and maybe I'll give some of those domed Crossmams a try as well. Sounds like i just need to get some good pellets to try and shoot more to develop a consistant hold.

Thanks for your responses!


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http://www.straightshooters.com/crosman-premier-ultra-magnum-.177.html

https://www.airgundepot.com/177hb.html

The ones in the box are much better as noted and the die number is usually stamped in red on the bottom of box.

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Consistent hold means a lot so I shoot best if I practice more regularly...
Guys refer to an Artillery hold for springers which basically means, don't clamp down and try to stop the movement.
It's going to bounce backwards as the piston moves forward and forward when the piston stops. (which is why they kill scopes)
Just hold it gently and as consistently as you can and shoot a bunch.

The guys are telling you the truth, JSB ,H&N and department store Crosman are where I start.

If you get too much time on your hands and are unhappy with your pellets, the pellet sampler from Straight Shooters is a good way to test a bunch.
The 177 pack is from 6.4gr to 16.4gr for $25 but they do stab you for $15 or $17 shipping.
It might be worth it if you're house bound long enough and got a buddy to split it!!


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i have found that i have to shoot both of my cheap springers often to be able to shoot them well. i think they are more hold sensitive than a gun

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As stated, keep the fasteners snugged up and JSB's are the only way to go. In .177, they come in about a half dozen weights from 7.3 grains to 16 grains. Try the 7.3 and 8.4 grain offerings. The heavies are for PCP popguns that can push them. Enjoy!

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NVhntr Offline OP
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Thanks again guys. Hope the new pellets are delivered soon.


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And another thing---

Bores fowled with years of waxy pellet lube, dust and old spider webs will really screw with accuracy. Snug up a .22 patch in the middle of a good length of Dacron fishing line or similar, moisten the patch with isopropyl alcohol and pull it back and forth through the bore until she screams for mercy. Have a look-see if all is well. If stubborn bits remain, some JB Bore Paste done in similar fashion will right most wrongs. Finish with the alcohol rinse and let dry.

Never oil a springer bore! The physics are when a trigger is tripped, the piston comes forward and stops just shy of the cylinder's end. Akin to a diesel engine and the laws of physics, the air temp increases sharply and only then does the pellet start its forward journey, allowing the piston to travel the final mm or so to gently come to rest at the end of the cylinder. It's why carbon-based oils will flash/diesel in a springer with the resultant seal damage. Oiling the bore will allow the pellet to move prematurely and the piston seal to strike the piston end with some force, damaging the seal over time. Decreases MV too.

Also check the breach seal of a break barrel by placing a square of TP over the top of the breach and sending a pellet. If confetti is created, replace the breach seal and/or snug up the pivot screw to keep the muzzle from slightly tipping downward from the forces at play. A cocked break barrel should not move when the rifle is held vertically and the barrel lifted to the horizontal. If it does move downward, the pivot is too loose and the bore will droop at the shot too resulting in vertical stringing on a target. James' molly paste from ARH is a good lube for these joints.

Rebuilding and tuning springers is handily done for those that are so inclined. ARH has most parts and accuracy is greatly improved from those that are tired. Have done so to my FWB 124D and 300S to great effect. Both are used to compete against $pendy PCP's at bench rest and field target competitions. Such conversations are beyond the scope of this post....

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NVHunter -

Lots of good tips so far, so I will just add this one which came to me from tuner John Thomas in Pennsylvania:

Since hold consistency ranges from important to vital depending on the rifle, and the Artillery hold takes some time to master, here is a good way to get started -

What he recommends is very consistent placement of your open hand under the forend, whether standing or seated. He places his thumb and forefinger on the two forend screws to consistently locate his hand, then releases them leaving just his palm in contact with the rifle. He holds on loosely from there.
I don't know if he listens to 38 Special in his head while he does this. I do sometimes... lol

That hand position probably won't be the optimum one for your rifle, but it should shoit fine - IF you are consistent.
Once you prove to yourself that you are truly consistent, try moving your hand back a little. Then a little more. etc.
Your groups should tell you whats best as you experiment.

Oh, and the 500 count Crosman domed HPs at Wal-Mart for $5/tin are a true bargain. I bought a 6-pack of them the other day because my FWB 124 likes them, and I have lots of .177s to try them out in besides.


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The top performing competition springers are all under or side lever models, which should tell us something: Unless you spend big money (>several hundreds) on a break barrel springer, you'll never get consistent lock-up, and even pricey ones loosen up. Therefore, a scope on the receiver is rarely going to remain in consistent alignment with the bore. Hold can help some, but the best solution is to ditch the receiver mounted scope and shoot irons, assuming of course that the irons are on the barrel. At effective air gun ranges, even people with lousy vision should be able to shoot irons, and the practice will make you a better shooter overall. If the scope is a cheapo, then you may also be suffering from moving internals - springers are notoriously hard on scopes.

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I think a lot of your accuracy issues are inherent to the gun you are shooting. A high powered cheap springer is a recipe for disaster. Not saying they won't work and are not fun, but if you really want one hole accuracy it's going to take a better rifle. Think Beeman R7.


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Originally Posted by tojohn
The top performing competition springers are all under or side lever models, which should tell us something: Unless you spend big money (>several hundreds) on a break barrel springer, you'll never get consistent lock-up, and even pricey ones loosen up. Therefore, a scope on the receiver is rarely going to remain in consistent alignment with the bore. Hold can help some, but the best solution is to ditch the receiver mounted scope and shoot irons, assuming of course that the irons are on the barrel. At effective air gun ranges, even people with lousy vision should be able to shoot irons, and the practice will make you a better shooter overall. If the scope is a cheapo, then you may also be suffering from moving internals - springers are notoriously hard on scopes.


You must be under 50. I can see the front sight and the target, or the front and rear sight, never all three. Rest of your advice is okay.

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Ive had same scope setup on my RWS 48 .22 and have been shooting it for 7 yrs and approx 7,000/10,000 pellets and have never had poi shift unless I chose to move scope settings.. alot depends upon quality of mount/rings and scope you use.. if you to to get by with a marginal airgun rated scope(cheap) then 8-10 times you will end up with poi shifts. I have no trouble maintaining zero on my 12 other springers of which 3/4 are all break barrels.
I agree with Brazos if your under 50 you might get by shooting open sights but not over 50 unless rare exception. I haven't been able to shoot open sights very well since about 47, while still can hit stuff just not near as consistent.


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NVhntr Offline OP
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Open sights are out for me, my 67 year old eyes passed that gate years ago. The scope that came with the gun says Crossman 4x32 on it; I'm sure Crossman didn't make and it's surely not an expensive scope. If the new pellets I ordered don't give me the accuracy I'd like I will upgrade either the scope or the gun. We will see.
Thanks for the ideas guys.


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Originally Posted by centershot
I think a lot of your accuracy issues are inherent to the gun you are shooting. A high powered cheap springer is a recipe for disaster. Not saying they won't work and are not fun, but if you really want one hole accuracy it's going to take a better rifle. Think Beeman R7.

exactly what i was thinking. an r7 is easy to shoot. no special technique required. doesnt rattle scopes and screws loose. when i want more power i go PCP.


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R7 is a great solution.

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