Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunter's Campfire Metal buildings

Has anyone had one of those metal garages built? I am shopping for a garage for the hunting property and they do look nice for the money. No way I can build a wooden structure for the same as a steel building.
If so what company did you choose and were you happy with them?

Eagle

And one from Carolina Carport

They are both lying, sons of bitches about certain product features.

The mexis torqued the screws on so tight it burned off all the neoprene gaskets.

Also, if you want color match screws too, ask ahead. So your shît doesn’t look like rosie the riveter gang banged it.

I replaced the screws myself after I started noticing leaks on top.


Beyond those few ‘peeves’, I’d still let the same shîtbirds come back and put another one up for me. Can’t beat the value. I came out better DIY my side metal.

Get extra roof truss bracing.

Been checking them out lately.
Most likely go with the A type roof, planning to use sawmill pine for the sides that I wrap.

Thanks for the tip on screws.

Had a loafing shed put up by Eagle Carports a few years back. The design was not as I ordered it and they blamed the miscommunication on me (which it wasn't.) The independent sales guy was useless. The Mexican installation crew was good. The building has been just fine. Just be sure to cross your Ts, dot your Is, and document everything.

Mine is 24 X 40 X 12 feet tall. It's been there about 12 years. I had the basic building erected on a concrete slab by a crew of wetbacks and did the metal siding myself. It's survived several really bad windstorms with no damage. I got the extra angle braces installed because of the 12 foot walls. There's no way I could have enclosed that much area with wood for the same cost. My door openings are 12 X 12 on both ends- - - -rolling doors on one end, and I'm about to get an accordion-type roll-up door installed on the other. Once it's fully enclosed I'm going to spray-insulate the walls and install a suspended ceiling at the 12 foot level.
Jerry

them mexi boys like ice cream sammiches. I was feeding them as they worked. It was about 100 degrees the day they put one of mine up.

I gave em a box for the road.

This was before I knew about them screws. Dang it. 😐

I got some phoucking phoebe birds building nests on my truss bars. Theyve been shîtting at free-will on my tools and wheelers.

I took a 20ft piece 3/4” water pipe and knocked em down.

One of em had three little hairy nuttsack looking critters in it. Ooops.

Cooper, Magnus,.....wet cleanup aisle 6

(I think they like baby mice better) 🤮🤮😃

I had 2 done the first a few years ago by Alans a cluster fugg from day one ordered in May not put up until late August. Alan's is nothing more than the order taker for Carolina Carports they get their cut from your down payment and that is the last you will get anything from them as far as help.
The second I had put up last summer by Behrs Buildings from Ohio an 18x21 A frame 8' sidewalls, 8x7 garage door and a 36" side door ordered in May installed late June on the date when they said it was coming. No leaks over winter,I put it on crushed stone with no plans to pour a slab under it as I park my JD 850 and my wheelers in it.
My advice is pay up for mobile home anchors and a drip lining...learned from my first building.
No way I could have built a garage like that out of wood for $4300.00 all in.

We had a metal "carport" built on a raised wood deck I had built of treated lumber from a canal lot I sold. When the Hispanic crew showed up to install it, they didn't like coming down my narrow drive into the woods - for a start. Then they refused to build the shed on the deck. I countered by refusing to let them leave the property without doing the job their bosses had agreed to. After a bunch of that [bleep] got settled, they built it and left. We used it as a raised shed area for a bit, then I enclosed it, framing up some older aluminum frame windows and covering the walls with hard-panel. Put in a "regular home" door and screen, with sliding glass patio doors on one end. The interior I "paneled" with cedar fence pickets cut to fit. Did real well until Hurricane Harvey put 5/12 feet of water over my whole 10 acre property! Took out the cedar from the interior walls, are-insulated them (the ceiling is finished the same way). Actually just finished the walls this weekend, been a slow project. Makes a nice "cabin", especially with the Ben Franklin stove for winter heat, and the hot tub room I built on the far end!

Mike Holmes

Get it insulated, way cooler in the summer.

Glad your are back

As an old structural engineer, I've spec'd the steel packages and designed the foundations/slab-on-grade (SOG) for some big industrial clients. Mostly Varco-Pruden buildings (see vp.com). Have also been an expert witness for party plaintiff in federal district court and for insurance companies when they collapse. Generally, the vendor will supply the steel package but a separate engineer will have to design the foundation/site grading/paving/utilities. Contracts will reflect this as well. Some things to consider:

Metal siding/roofing will be bid as the toilet paper thickness option. Fastener quality can vary also. Ask what your choices are. Go heavier so you can walk on the roof without it deflecting, especially if you have robust snow/wind loads.
Plan where you want your overhead doors, windows, skylights and man-doors located so the X-bracing can be located by the vendor without interference or "ah, [bleep]!".
Diagonal bracing between the bottom chord/flange of the main frame girders and roof purlins should be rolled steel angle iron with bolted connections NOT limp-dick bent sheet metal with screw connections. Ask about options in the bid/contract before signing.
Interior floor SOG should slope toward overhead doors and exterior concrete aprons should slope away from same to keep rainwater going the right direction.
Account for all roof/frame loads like overhead monorail or chain hoists, HVAC units, future mezzanine loads, etc.
Saw cut the floor SOG into 8' or so squares when it's still green to preclude shrinkage cracks. The can be filled with joint filler.
Get the lined insulation option to keep the inside from condensing/dripping/rusting.
There a excellent vendors/erectors and poor substitutes. Do your due diligence and be aware of the various parties and their respective contractual responsibilities to preclude finger pointing and extra$.

Pre-Engineered Metal Buildings (PEMB's) are a very cost effective solution for the footprint/volume they provide.....

Well I bought one today from Behrsbuildings.com Wooster, Ohio. As it is going on the hunting property to store firewood, mower, some hand tools, etc. there will be no slab just crushed stone. We have no intention of hanging an electric lift or even a deer from any roof support. Basically it is a metal shell to protect stuff we don't want lying around outside and a couple of refrigerator and freezers. I bought the drip lining for the roof too. All in an A frame 24x36x8' side wall is costing us under $7000. If we get 10 years out of it most of us will not be hunting anymore anyway.

I put this one up about a year ago.



24x36 total, with a 12' enclosed garage. 12' sides on the drive thru part.

It was a bit under $7k.

Built the pad myself out of limestone base material, and covered it with washed rock after I rolled the base in.

Looks great what company did you use?

Local one. http://shedsoftexas.com/texas

I'm sure the materials come from somewhere else though.

Yes Behr uses Steel Valley from Warren, Ohio

Looks great

Trumper: What snow load did you design the roof for? Check your PM