The full choke’s reign of superiority is considerably shorter in useful yards than the improved cylinder’s. Between 40 and 50 yards, where the full choke shines, even the best patterns (from ordinary hunting loads) begin to undergo a number of ills inherent to the smoothbore. Speed of the pellets drops drastically, and difficulty of judging forward allowance increases disproportionately to distance. The effect of air resistance is now being felt by all the pellets of the full-choke string and dissipation becomes progressively more damaging to pattern efficiency. By 55 yards, with ordinary hunting loads, the full choke has become less efficient than the improved cylinder at 40. This is partly due to loss of penetration of pellets at that yardage.
This pointer came from the book “Shotgunning — The Art and Science” by Bob Brister.
And 40 is a far poke for most of us on Gamebirds......
I read (actually re-read) in Don L Johnson's book 'Grouse and Woodcock, A Gunner's Guide' about Vic Reinders, quite an accomplished trap shooter years ago. Used his favored Rem Model 31, 12 ga with a full choke.
Just got a new Remington 870 20ga myself. Been using 870 supermag 12ga. The 20ga. will be using a Patternmaster Code Black Upland/timber (improve cylinder) extended choke for close flushing birds and a Patternmaster Code Black Duck (full) extended for late season birds.
I do believe that most casual gunners today are over choked, probably inherited from their dad of the Greatest Generation who had paper shells with an over the top cardboard wad, less uniform and hard shot, and were generally convinced that one needed a 30” full choke barrel to be successful on wild pheasants.
Old school/new school, things change, sometimes they don't and sometimes they come together.......
With a Bud today when he combined an old school Model 59 Winchester with full choke and modern day hard shot 5's, and tore up a Turkey at around 35yards...No sights other than the bead, no thumbhole stock....no patterning different shells over and over.....Birds head and neck took a pounding along with a wing being broken....Feathers flew and the Bird just crumpled.....
I shoot a 20 gauge pump for Eastern Montana sharptails, usually with either an ounce or ounce and a quarter of #6. First weekend or two, young birds flush in twos and threes, sometimes right under my feet. I don't have a dog, and hunt buffaloberry/chokecherry draws that are shallow and easy to walk. For this early hunting I like a Skeet or Improved Cylinder, and the birds usually drop right there, average distance from me when I retrieve them is about 30 yards or less. Sometimes they flush so close I need to wait them out a bit even with the open chokes. If one does flush at a distance, I just leave them alone and look for more tight holding young birds. I love those hot afternoons walking around the thickets, makes your heart jump when they flush!
Later season birds need more choke...sometimes a lot more, as they are flushing farther away and seem to be more heavily feathered.
I shoot cheap shells on clay pigeons, but only use premium ammo for hunting. I like my pellets in the pattern. Lots of shot with an open choke does the job for me on those early season birds.
My Bill Hanus Bird Gun in 20ga is choked Skeet 1 and skeet 2. I'm not really sure what that actually means but it's worked very well for me for over 30 years. I shoot premium 2.75" shells with the appropriate size shot and have taken pheasant out to about 35 yds.
Lee F.
"Life's tough......It's even tougher if you're stupid"
-John Wayne
Calling an illegal alien an 'undocumented immigrant' is like calling a drug dealer an 'unlicensed pharmacist'
Good thread, interesting to see what everyone uses. I have Bob Brister’s book and it’s very good. I’ve keep my choices as simple as possible. I shoot trap often, not ATA, just for fun and use modified. For most all Of my hunting I use IC/M. If using my O/U for sporting clays, IC/M, if my 391, mostly IC. I feel pretty good about my choices, but would Always like to learn more.
My Bill Hanus Bird Gun in 20ga is choked Skeet 1 and skeet 2. I'm not really sure what that actually means but it's worked very well for me for over 30 years. I shoot premium 2.75" shells with the appropriate size shot and have taken pheasant out to about 35 yds.
Skeet 1 is very close to cylinder (no choke), while Skeet 2 is a light modified. Very useful combination.
Ever pattern two different choke constructions of only .005" ? That's the difference between Skeet and Improved Cylinder, or Improved Cylinder vs. Light Modified. Somewhere there's a point where constriction matters and I'm not sure .005" is it. I can't blame my misses on .005" of choke. Now .010" is a different story! : )
Every normal man must be tempted, at times, to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats.
MOGC, excellent point. I could get by for my sharptail hunting with either a Skeet or IC, and a Modified or IM. I like choke tubes, and sometimes change them just so I can put some lube on the threads and clean the plastic build up out of the one I had been using. I've got a Light Modified, and if I had to choose one choke for my 20 for life, think that would be it. Can't think of a time hunting sharptails when it wouldn't bave been a decent choice.
Some wise shotgunner said: "Chokes give us inches,, but we usually miss by feet"
Point well and chokes mean little....point well on Birds and chokes mean little...point well on clays and they mean little, except tighter and the resulting visual response gives you more confidence.... along with teaching us how to point well....
If we don't consistently point well, no matter what choke, we won’t hit consistently....
