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Originally Posted by JGRaider
Thanks for the help. For the record I put in Echo Premium bar and chain oil. Does anyone use like straight 30 wt motor oil?


I never use motor oil, bar and chain oil only.

Regarding the picture, oil splatter on right looks excessive. You will have to watch your ratio of bar/chain oil tank to gas tank. My rule of thumb is two tanks of gas to 1 tank of bar/chain oil.


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You can use 30 wt in a pinch to get you home,but not for long periods...90 weight gear lube oil is much better and some swear by it.

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Originally Posted by logger
The other thing to do is to run it cutting wood and monitor the bar oil versus fuel. You always want to run out of fuel before you run out of bar oil.


This!

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It should run out of gas just before it runs out of chain oil.

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Originally Posted by JGRaider
I've never had the need to own a chainsaw, but helping mom and dad clean up their shop yesterday I stumbled upon an old Echo CS440 saw that was probably 15 years old. It hadn't been started in at least 10 years dad said. I brought it home, cleaned it up as good as I could, put some Echo oil in it, filled it with TruFuel 50:1, flipped the switch off of Stop, choked it a few pulls, pushed the choke in, gave it a couple more pulls and it fired right up. I couldn't believe it. The chain appears to be adequate, but not what I'd call real sharp. I read through the manual online, and came to the chain oil adjustment section. I went out and sprayed a stream on the concrete (see picture). I don't know what it is supposed to look like, how much it is supposed to use, etc but for whatever reason this stream seems to me to indicate that it is using an excessive amount of oil but I don't have a clue. Problem is, the screw adjustment is in as far as it will go, and the only adjustment left is to use more oil. What do you experienced guys think? I appreciate the help.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

You are good to go on the oiling. I would suggest that when you sharpen the chain to remove the bar scrape out the groove with an old hack saw blade and blow it out with compressed air. I do this every chain sharpening on 28" bars. If I don't they will plug up and bake in with wood chips. I use a old saw-zall blade with a electrical tape handle for the scraper.

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Originally Posted by logcutter
You can use 30 wt in a pinch to get you home,but not for long periods...90 weight gear lube oil is much better and some swear by it.
When I was running a chain saw a lot, we used 90w gear lube in the winter and 140w in the summer. Stahl is good but expensive. Wouldn't even consider any motor oil.

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Looks good to me.Once you start cutting and get a bunch of saw dust collected in the saw it will probably quit spraying like that.Oil is your friend on a chain saw.If you don't have enough it will get dry,hot and won't cut worth a damn.Much better to be using more than not enough.


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You've been lucky to not have a use for a chainsaw until now!

Not to worry, though... You'll be cussin' soon enough! laugh


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I almost always worry more if it is not flinging oil. Oil is very cheap. I got some from my dad when he died. Dad had bar oil, and some 15W40 diesel oil. I have no idea what old dad used it for, he never had a diesel . It was half gone to boot. I mixed some together and it seemed fine last winter. You can get generic bar oil for darn cheap sometimes. Not sure it's as good as Stihl.


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Originally Posted by JGRaider
Thanks for the help. For the record I put in Echo Premium bar and chain oil. Does anyone use like straight 30 wt motor oil?


I have used old oil from cars/trucks....you name it Ive used it but like heavy oil best


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How long of a bar? Is it what the saw came with?

Some oilers can’t keep up with a long bar, some will over oil a shorty.

You’re for sure on the good side of that equation regardless. I’d run just it.


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Originally Posted by rockinbbar
You've been lucky to not have a use for a chainsaw until now!

Not to worry, though... You'll be cussin' soon enough! laugh


Yeah.....my dumb azzz likes to wait until it's 105* to start cutting up stuff.


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Originally Posted by JGRaider
Originally Posted by rockinbbar
You've been lucky to not have a use for a chainsaw until now!

Not to worry, though... You'll be cussin' soon enough! laugh


Yeah.....my dumb azzz likes to wait until it's 105* to start cutting up stuff.



Mine won't run in that heat!

Mostly because I never pull the start cord on them when it's like that... laugh


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Originally Posted by MadMooner
How long of a bar? Is it what the saw came with?

Some oilers can’t keep up with a long bar, some will over oil a shorty.

You’re for sure on the good side of that equation regardless. I’d run just it.



18" bar, and after running it a while this afternoon that chain needs replacing pretty bad. I think this thing is about 15 yrs old or so and I'm betting it's the original bar and chain. Speaking of that, would you guys just go the Chicago chain replacement route or what?


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I buy oregon chains for mine.


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I order from Baileys. Not that I buy much or often, but they have a schit ton of good products, prices, and are helpful.


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Chains aren't expensive at all. A new one will flat out transform that saw!

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Bar oil only. Also many chainsaws leak bar oil when sitting. Chains, you get what you pay for. Oregon is not a bad chain, but there are many different types. If the bar is not bent or the gaps the chain runs in are equal it should be OK. Usually happens when the saw gets stuck, trapped/pinched.

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I'm sure it's been mentioned that actual bar oil is stickier(to the chain) than regular engine oil.


Same reason why we lubricate roller chain with an actual chain lube.


My dad is a money saving sonuvabitch and he liked used engine oil for chain saws and oiling the balers, etc..

Just spend the extra money(for chain oil) and keep your chains greasy clean.


Husqvarna has a winter weight version.

Not a lumber jack so a $15 jug will last me 6-12 months.

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Originally Posted by BillyGoatGruff
As long as it's flinging oil out I call it good.


This. ^^^^^^^^^

IMO you are GTG.


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