Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunter's Campfire New Honda Trail bike....

If the new Honda comes with hi - lo range it will be a good rig for around the farm. The step through frame and a big seat designed for an azz to sit on is a good selling point for those of us over 60. I'd build nice aluminum racks for the front and rear and incorporate a gun scabbard on the right front and left rear.

From the little bit of research I've done on the new model it looks to be about 60-70 lbs heavier than the original CT90 and not a commensurate increase in power. With the difference in cost you could buy a used early model and rebuild the thing to your liking (including big bore kit 125cc) and probably have an overall better performing bike for less money. At least that is the plan I'm following after picking up two older CT90's last year that are in different stages of needed repair. Just make sure that CT110 is the right year for the dual range tranny. I think 1980 was the one year they skipped it.

Be interesting to see what parts/assemblies from the new bike will fit on the older models. Disc brakes might be a nice thing to have on an older bike.

Here's one source of info. that has a full spec. sheet
https://www.hondaprokevin.com/2021-honda-ct125-hunter-cub-release-date-announcement-accessories

2021 Honda CT125 Hunter Cub Specifications (Japan spec)
CT125
model Honda 2BJ-JA55
Overall length (mm) 1,960
Overall width (mm) 805
Overall height (mm) 1,085
Wheelbase (mm) 1,255
Minimum ground clearance (mm) ★ 165
Seat height (mm) ★ 800
Vehicle weight (kg) 120
Riding capacity (person) Two
Fuel consumption rate * 1
(km / L) Reported by the Ministry of Land, Infrastructure, Transport and Tourism:
Fuel economy value * 2
(km / h) 61.0 (60) <2 passengers>
WMTC mode value ★
(class) * 3 67.2 (Class 1) <1 person riding>
Minimum turning radius (m) 1.9
Engine model JA55E
Engine type Air-cooled 4-stroke OHC single cylinder
Total displacement (cm³) 124
Inner diameter x stroke (mm) 52.4 × 57.9
Compression ratio ★ 9.3
Maximum output (kW [PS] / rpm) 6.5 [8.8] / 7,000
Maximum torque (N ・ m [kgf ・ m] / rpm) 11 [1.1] / 4,500
Fuel supply device type Electronic <Electronic control fuel injection device (PGM-FI)>
Starting method ★ Self-type (kick-type)
Ignition device type ★ Full transistor battery ignition
Lubrication method ★ Combined pumping and spraying type
Fuel tank capacity (L) 5.3
Clutch type ★ Wet multi-plate coil spring type
Transmission type Constant mesh 4-stage return *
Gear ratio 1st speed 2.500
2nd speed 1.550
3rd speed 1.150
4 speed 0.923
Reduction ratio (primary ★ / 2-order) 3.350 / 2.785
Caster angle (degree) ★ 27 ° 00´
Trail (mm) ★ 80
tire Previous 80 / 90-17M / C 44P
rear 80 / 90-17M / C 44P
Brake type Before / after Hydraulic disc
Suspension system Previous Telescopic type
rear Swing arm type
Frame format backbone

This looks interesting and I'd like to give it a try. I still think the TW200, is THE bike to have in this class. It is just tough to beat for easy to ride, go anywhere, from mountains to prairies and from ranch work to campgrounds. It's not a motocross bike and won't win any races; but, it will go about anywhere and is about as reliable as one can get.

The posties that they make for the Australian market are high range only. My CT110 is an '83 and has the dual range gear box. Most of my buddies with the earlier Trail 90's also have them. I never knew that they made one for the US market that didn't have the dual range. Possible that the '80 could have been imported as a postie bike?

What I do like is maybe the availability of some better suspension parts that would fit the older 90's and 110's. Those old shocks are sprung kind of like a pogo stick. Sure more hp and go fast has some appeal to some folks, but that comes with more weight, a clutch and taller seating. Mostly I just want to save a bunch of walking, not make a lot of noise, check out nature down a dirt road or wheeler track and not need to see how fast I can do it.

Here ya go:

http://ct90-ct110.com/1980454545Trail45110.html

RV owners will be lined up to buy these.

The wife and I dumped two Idaho bulls (a spike and small 6x6) in a clear cut, at first light, a few years back. We went back to camp and retrieved the flatbed cargo trailer with ramp and my 2005 Rokon, with the 6hp Kohler 4 stroke engine. We were able to park the pickup and trailer at the bottom of the clearcut, where the road dead ended. My rokon has a tow bar on it. Using it, and a 1/4" cable with shackle, I was able to drag those bulls down to the trailer. Granted, most of it was a slight downhill angle, with some of it being pretty much level, and it still drug both bulls to the trailer.....ungutted! After gutting the bulls, it had no problem pulling them up the ramp and onto the trailer. Elevation was relatively low for Idaho elk hunting, about 4000', and it did just fine. Both bulls were skinned and hanging in the cooler before noon! Seldom does it work that way with 1 bull, let alone 2!

I also have a bolt on side car, for it....but it requires 3' of width clearance. Getting it as close to the kill site as possible, I then pack the quarters to it (elk or deer). With some parachute cord, I tie off the quarters standing on end, or just tie off the pack frame to the side car.

One note on the side car.....it bolts to the right side of the rokon. You can take a left hand turn as fast as you want...but NOT right hand turns. That damn thing will try to crawl right on top of your head, without a load in it. The learning curve is VERY quick (as in the first right hand turn you come to). Just ask the jack russell that was sitting in it. While trying to wrestle that thing back to the ground, we were eye to eye.....probably with the same expression on our faces!

With the gearing, and 2wd, it's unbelievable what those rigs will do. I'll never sell mine.

Andy3

Been watching these for a little bit myself. First job growing up was moving sprinkler pipe for my dad and grandpa. My ride to and from the fields was (I think) and early 80's Honda 90 that my dad dug out of a farm shed and got running for me. Me and my buddy (he had some kind of 125cc motorcycle) would race coming home. I could get an extra 5 or so miles per hour by leaning forward to cut down drag. I've been watching the local adds thinking of getting one from trail riding in the hills, but these new ones might be just what I'm looking for.

I'll bet that Honda got an ear full about not having that in '80. They do list the dual range transmission for the Australian market 2008 according to your spec sheet. Good info thanks.

Andy, really like these Rokon stories. The guys always invited me and the Rokon along on their bear hunting trips. Pulling a black bear in the woods is a little like trying to pull a water bed. The thing just spreads out all over. They drape over that rear Rokon rack real well though and with a little tying, you just drive them out of the woods. I pulled my buddy's 10 point out across a beaver dam once and no wheeler would have done that. Bears fold up in the middle better than deer, so I pull my deer lengthwise now on a sled.

Jim in Idaho,
If you are going to look at the CT110 that you had pictures of in the "other thread" here are some things to look at;

Shine a flash light down in the gas tank, look for rust. Very common issue with today's fuel.
Put the bike up on the center stand, grab the front wheel/forks when its off the ground and try and pull it back and forth. Any movement is an issue with the steering bearings. Many had a "release" handle to move the bars, if not adjusted right it beats the bearings up.
Go to the back wheel and move it (roll slow) hold the sprocket and see how much the rear wheel moves. Any real movement means the rubber "cush drive" is shot.
Try and pull the chain away from the sprocket, if you can move it any more than half way up a tooth, then the chain is stretched. Look for "hooked" teeth.
Not sure of the year, and when changes were made most had a chrome muffler. This one may have been painted because of rust. I have seen these mufflers rust out. Check the mounting holes for the missing front heat shield. Not that easy to fix. Others had clamps no issues other than replacing it.
Check the front fork seals for oil leaks and rust on the fork tubes.
Rear shocks for oil leaks.
Check the twist grip for smooth action, sticky twist grip is common usually from a drop or fall.
Tires for weather checking.
Ride and switch the high low range, these can get sticky from non use.
Check the rubber tubes and air filter for cracks rot etc. Common for older ones to be falling apart internally.
All the normal stuff, lights, horn, cables, steering lock etc.

These Honda's are pretty easy to fix, but at the money you said he is asking I would not accept very many issues. I do see nice clean ones going $2K+ in my area.

They've duplicated the front fender from the old CT90. That was a problem in mud. Mud would pack up under the fender to the point that it could stop the tire from turning. It happened to me 1 time. The solution would have been to simply raise the fender an inch or 2 but they haven't done it.

Re read the other thread.. New tires so no weather checking. The Trail 90 on the porch (yellow/sliver) is just like my pair of 1969's.

Thanks, I appreciate that. I've been making up a list of things to check - condition of rubber tubing, inside of tank, shifting, all switches and lights working and a couple of other things but those mechanical details you list about the chain, sprocket, bearings, oil leak and so forth are very helpful.

The seller says the odometer reads 278 miles which according to the Owner's manual would mean it's not even broken in yet. If that's true mileage then it should be in good shape mechanically. I'd worry more about simple deterioration from improper storage over the last 38 years. Hopefully will go see it Friday.

Really hoping it turns out to be a real "find" and he will bend on his price some since to be honest I'd prefer the older one over this newer one. The newer one is obviously more sophisticated but as already noted it will be several pounds heavier and a good inch and some taller. And while my name will never appear on a list of the World's Greatest Mechanics I can work on a simple carbureted engine where everything is right out there to see. Sophisticated is nice but simple is good, too.

Agree I haven't heard of any state not issueing a tag for a street bike/dual sport either but when the Title say offroad/OHV like say a crf250f that you put lights/horn etc. on -you can't get a license plate .

Montana? hell you can drive a goat/golf cart/snow machine/combine up there they ain't got no sense up there .

Friend of mine Rick was from Spokane, Worshinton - said they go to montana on fast street bikes . Said you could pass a cop doing 175mph and the cop could only fine you $5 - $5 on the spot . Cop could pull you over again 1/2 mile down the road for speeding and cite you again - but only for $5 .
I read that was coming to an end because people were going there to do top speed runs with extremely fast vehicles .
My info is old so if that law was rescinded 25 years ago --well ok .

This !!

Jim if you don't get the TW - i'll never speak to you again .

I'd not buy an old bike that i planned on riding way out into the wildernes - i'm a scaredy-cat i guess .

Honestly, that "old bike" part is something I'm including in the ruminatin'. But those old Hondas got their reputation from going and going and going, and going some more. Will have to see this one and go from there...

How does the Suzuki VanVan compare with the TW200? About the only difference I can see is the VanVan has electronic fuel injection instead of a carb plus the seat on the Van seems a lot nicer.

They both have similar specs but the impression I get from multiple reviews is that the VanVan is designed and geared more like a street bike that can go on dirt while the TW200 is more of a dirt bike that can go on the street.

I've always wanted one of these for buzzing around the woods. Not much more and love the fat tires.

https://www.yamahamotorsports.com/dual-sport/models/tw200