Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Single Shots Ruger Np. 1 shake down procedures?

Ready to receive a Lipsey's 257 Weatherby. Wandering how people break theirs in and at what point to do any tweaking? I have read several accurizing articles. I will check rib clearance before I mount the scope, torque the fore arm and run a dollar bill between barrel and fore arm to see see if it is free floated.

What else for starters? How much load development should I do if it doesn't settle down? If I get consistent 11/4" groups should I call it good or try a barrel shim or tensioner? Anything else to check? Is the factory trigger worth adjusting or just replace it with the JARD unit?

I wouldn't do a thing until I shot it a bit. It might surprise you. Maybe I'm lucky, but the handful of #1's I've owned were spiffily accurate right out of the gate.

Yes this is good advice, I will put at least a 100 or more down range before I do anything drastic. Just trying to minimize the load work up and if necessary accuracy tweaks before I scorch the barrel. Hoping this one is a shooter right out of the gate.

Three things I have found to do well for the #1 and #3 are....

Make sure the fore end wood is not touching the front of the action.
Remove a little wood at the front of the fore arm and apply some bedding material for uniform fit.
Add a snug stiff plastic shim between the barrel and the hanger.

This usually helps accuracy some, but it also lets the gun hold same point of impact
over time and shooting sessions.

Just my 2 cents.
Tim

This mirrors my experience with later Ruger #1s, as well as a few of the older ones. I wouldn’t dink around with it until I had shot it enough to know what it does.

I have one of the Boddington series in 300 H&H, and it has been sub MOA right from day one. As to barrel break-in, I don’t buy in. Let the rifle speak to you; if it is acceptably accurate, keep shooting it until groups open a bit, then clean it. Especially with a barrel burner like the .257 Weatherby - the break-in just takes you that much closer to a shot out barrel.

Good advice here, especially about not futzing with it until you've shot it. Barrel break-in? Can't really say. The two writer/experts I respect most are kinda on opposite sides of that. I tend to favor JB's view, mostly because I'm lazy and easily bored. My version involves wiping the powder fouling out between shots with solvent, not full-on copper treatments. My Howa .243 was done that way, and after 40 rounds fired on Tuesday, there was zero blue on the Copper Killer patches I ran through it, unless it was hidden in the black crud.

That .257 is a smoker. Zero need for such a beast here, but I admire its possibilities. Now you need an understudy one to preserve the barrel😛.

Agree, just shoot it. May be surprised.

I have a mid '80's '06 RSI. You'd think with the "hit or miss" Wilson barrel and the full length forearm, it wouldn't shoot that well.

Well, it does, near MOA with factory ammo. Have yet to work up specific loads. Trigger is also great for a #1.

I traded for it used, so don't know it's history. Barrel looks great thru the Hawkeye.

DF

before you shoot this new rifle a would buy some DBC and treat the rifle barrel bore 1st the real name is > Dyna-Tek bore coat ,i plan on treating more of my rifles with this treatment including my already been shot 257 Weatherby Ruger #1`s ,it just might save my rifle bores longer ?

+1

DF


Edited to add, don’t think they’ll last longer, just foul less. Heat kills’em and DBC can’t change that.

By barrel break in I meant DBK or lapping. I think these were recommended for the Wilson Barrels. I am going to do th DBK right off the bat as cleaning will be easier and I intend to try some Nosler E-Tips which act a little like the original Barnes X even though they are not pure copper.

Given how accurate the current Rugers ,even the budget models, I am hoping this one will go an inch or under with no drama just load work up.

Tempted to get the barrel melonited but probably won't as I am not sure how much additional barrel life that would add. It can go wrong if the barrel was not fully stress relieved or is over heated.

Thanks I know the answer is shoot it and see but this reinforced that and will hopefully keep me from screwing with the rifle unnecessarily.

I’ve had the exact opposite experience on the four that I owned. That applied after all the so called accurizing actions. OP, in my view, if it shoots 1.25” groups out of the box, you got a good one. Great cartridge, the 257 wby.