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johnn Offline OP
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Originally Posted by sixfive
See what it is doing after 10 to 20 rounds if you have the available ammunition. Sometimes it takes a few rounds for the bore to come around. I guess if you do rebarrel in the end you will always have the piece of mind that you have a nice new barrel to work with. Good luck with the old Krag!

Thanks, i need to change out the front post, its a Marble and supposedly push from right to left as the dovetail is tapered... according to Marble. I did get it to move with a brass drift, but its really tight. I may need to get a tool. I have some plastic posts from Williams that i think I can use to determine the height. Once i get the sights dialed in, i will decide if it needs a barrel. I would be surprised if it grouped, based on how it looks to me. I may cast the chamber so i can measure the throat.


For those without thumbs, it's s Garden fookin Island, not Hawaii
GB1

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I am in the same boat as you. I test fired a 1894 Norwegian Krag sporter I have been working on yesterday. Front sight is a replacement ramp and 3/8" dovetailed sight blade as well. The sights were way off. Had to set the rear sight to the 500 meter mark to be close at 50 yards. I have a Williams sight pusher now but, before I had a store bought one I made my own. I used a sturdy C-clamp (or something similar) with a couple of well shaped blocks of wood to push the dovetailed blade. Crude but effective. I think Brownells has a video on measuring front sight heights. I know their catalog use to have a formula.

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Install it right to left, remove it left to right, looking at it from the rear.


"You can lead a man to logic, but you cannot make him think." Joe Harz
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Get a can of key board air cleaner.
Triple masking the front and back of the barrel by the sight.
Blast the sight quickly with a frost on it
Quickly hit it with the drift.
If that dont work.
And your gonna toss it anyways.
30 tpi small hacksaw down the middle of it
Taped up like before .
Get within 1/16 th to 1/ 32 of the base pf the sight.

Take a pair of needle nose and squeeze the cut together.
Spread open with small flat tip and small hammer
Repeat till it breaks from flex and comes da fugg out.

Dont listen to me.
I'm a dik.....
And neither of these will ever work.....

Just some bullschitt I came up with on the fly....






3 2 1
The experts will be along soon to tell ya how jakked this is.


LMFAO!!!





Last edited by renegade50; 06/06/20.
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Johnn,

I just finished fixing up a customers 1903A3 that had a really rough bore, and a load of copper in it, That wasn’t returning any clean patches, but it doesn’t pretty well now.

Here are some before and after borescope pictures... I couldn’t drive a lead slug down it, but now once I did the copper out (reverse elec plating), and lapped it the barrel slugs like most off the shelf rifles, and the patches are almost clean. Lapping here is done with abrasives, and you only aim to restore performance, not remove all the pits which would make the bore to big.

Before
[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

AFTER

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

Last edited by Spotshooter; 06/06/20.
IC B2

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