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I picked up a South Carolina BACO 70 featherweight (2009 manufacture) in 7mm-08 the other day new in box unfired. Upon getting it home I noticed the bolt is met with resistance when pushed forward in the action. This occurs in about the last 3/8 of an inch of forward travel as the cocking piece nears the action, and BEFORE pushing the bolt handle downward. It only does it when the safety is in the fire position. If the safe is switched to the middle position everything operates as normal.

Also, the bolt operates fine with the cocking piece/firing pin assembly completely removed from the bolt. Being I have a 308 model 70, I put the cocking piece/firing pin assembly out that rifle in the bolt of the new rifle, and operation is normal. So, something is not right with the firing pin/cocking piece in the new rifle. I inspected the bolt/action for any shiny rub marks, and the only thing I see is bluing worn off on the left inside of the receiver just ahead of the the where the bolt release is located. Any ideas what is causing the problem? It is equally hard to pull the bolt rearward once it meets this "tight" place. I can hold the rifle by the bolt handle and its own weight is not enough to overcome the binding.

I hate to send it back to Winchester and I doubt they would send me a new firing pin assembly. I purchased the gun because it was a USA made example, but at this point I am not going to touch anything or adjust the trigger until I get this issue resolved.

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Ahh, never mind.....

Last edited by Sheister; 06/11/20.

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Originally Posted by Sheister
Sure sounds like a sear engagement issue to me. Try holding the trigger down (unloaded of course) and put the bolt in and out, see if it clears. If it does, you probably need to adjust the sear engagement.... just a WAG.....


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Send a PM to Redneck and have him look at this thread, he will know.


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Originally Posted by Mountain_Buck
I picked up a South Carolina BACO 70 featherweight (2009 manufacture) in 7mm-08 the other day new in box unfired. Upon getting it home I noticed the bolt is met with resistance when pushed forward in the action. This occurs in about the last 3/8 of an inch of forward travel as the cocking piece nears the action, and BEFORE pushing the bolt handle downward. It only does it when the safety is in the fire position. If the safe is switched to the middle position everything operates as normal.

Also, the bolt operates fine with the cocking piece/firing pin assembly completely removed from the bolt. Being I have a 308 model 70, I put the cocking piece/firing pin assembly out that rifle in the bolt of the new rifle, and operation is normal. So, something is not right with the firing pin/cocking piece in the new rifle. I inspected the bolt/action for any shiny rub marks, and the only thing I see is bluing worn off on the left inside of the receiver just ahead of the the where the bolt release is located. Any ideas what is causing the problem? It is equally hard to pull the bolt rearward once it meets this "tight" place. I can hold the rifle by the bolt handle and its own weight is not enough to overcome the binding.

I hate to send it back to Winchester and I doubt they would send me a new firing pin assembly. I purchased the gun because it was a USA made example, but at this point I am not going to touch anything or adjust the trigger until I get this issue resolved.




The rifle's performing correctly.. The 'resistance' you're experiencing is merely the sear engaging the firing pin and preventing forward movement - as it should .. Put it on safe, and close the bolt.. It'll have no resistance... Switching bolts from one rifle to another is a bad idea and not going to give you any real info since they're built to match a certain receiver and not necessarily a different one - especially if one's a NH and the other a BACO..

Take it out and fire it - I bet you have no issues at all..


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Thanks Redneck.. I have 5 of these BACO 70s now and none of the others have as much resistance as this new one in pushing the bolt forward in the receiver. It just seemed odd to me because once you get past the spot where resistance occurs the bolt moves freely back and forth...this is with the bolt handle up. Perhaps shooting it and working the action will loosen things up a bit. And yes, working the bolt on safe gives normal operation. I had no intention of shooting the rifle with the firing pin assembly/cocking piece from the other rifle in the new one..It was merely a test to see how it felt, and it did make a difference.

I'm going to put an Ernie spring in the trigger as I think I have an extra one around here. I also need to decide on and order a scope and reloading components (Bullets, brass and dies) as the 7mm-08 is a new to me caliber.

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I wonder if that particular rifle was issued with a stronger FP spring? I've seen a few of the new ones come in with a much shorter 'throw' than the others - and those exhibit fairly stronger springs..


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Originally Posted by Redneck
I wonder if that particular rifle was issued with a stronger FP spring? I've seen a few of the new ones come in with a much shorter 'throw' than the others - and those exhibit fairly stronger springs..



That's as good a theory and explanation as any. All I know is you have to work the bolt like you mean it...I doubt it will matter much in a hunting situation but might get a little annoying at the bench...I guess I will find out.

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You can eliminate this problem" - see Lee's explanation - by filing back the cocking piece where it engages with the sear.

Of course, the safety will be permanently on "fire". Not a real problem unless one carries hot - I don't. Nor do i recommend it.

I bought a used M70 XTR last October, in very good shape. I haven't done anything to it other than scraping out the pressure points in the barrel channel and bedding it full length from recoil lug forward. - barely even looked at it, much less fire it until a couple days ago. Hunting season is coming, I needed to check out the new bedding/scope alignment.. Scope needed adjusting even at 25 yards. A lot. But then I hadn't previously fired it, so no idea.. Yet to fire at 100. The FL bedding may or may not stay.

But the safety would not engage. Apparently the bozo I bought it from- or maybe a previous owner to him - had filed back the cocking piece about 1/8 inch. For what reason I have no idea. Probably to eliminate that last sear engagement pressure, in the mistaken belief it was wrong, or just annoying..

It did too. I hope he didn't fook with the sear itself - didn't look like it.

A Tubb cocking piece and firing pin (why not go whole hog? ) is on the way as of 20 minutes ago. Even so, it is still a good deal at $855 with VXIII scope, sling, several boxes of ammo, and reloading equipment. Just not as good as it was at $750..... smile

Looks like I may have to do some safety fitting on the Tubbs, but maybe I'll get lucky.


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Originally Posted by las
You can eliminate this problem" - see Lee's explanation - by filing back the cocking piece where it engages with the sear.

Of course, the safety will be permanently on "fire". Not a real problem unless one carries hot - I don't. Nor do i recommend it.

I bought a used M70 XTR last October, in very good shape. I haven't done anything to it other than scraping out the pressure points in the barrel channel and bedding it full length from recoil lug forward. - barely even looked at it, much less fire it until a couple days ago. Hunting season is coming, I needed to check out the new bedding/scope alignment.. Scope needed adjusting even at 25 yards. A lot. But then I hadn't previously fired it, so no idea.. Yet to fire at 100. The FL bedding may or may not stay.

But the safety would not engage. Apparently the bozo I bought it from- or maybe a previous owner to him - had filed back the cocking piece about 1/8 inch. For what reason I have no idea. Probably to eliminate that last sear engagement pressure, in the mistaken belief it was wrong, or just annoying..

Not just wrong, but totally dangerous and it must be fixed.. Not hard, but one better know what they're doing or they'll just make it worse...


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