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Sounds like you just need an axe, unless you don't live close to an Emergency Room. 😁

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It's possible that the chain wasn't properly seated in the bar groove or on the sprocket. When it popped back into position, it left a lot of slack.


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I hope to get it all straight day after tomorrow.


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I've run a chainsaw for 40 years and never once had a bar and chain both pop off..............


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Capitol letters are the difference between "helping your Uncle Jack off a horse" & "helping your uncle jack off a horse".
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And I hope it.never happens again.


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You can buy new carbs for them pretty cheap. When mine starts acting up I just go through it and replace the cheap expendable parts and, whamo!, it's back in business. Carb, fuel lines, fuel filter, air filter, oil line, and I'm good for another 5 years. Everything on them comes off with a T27 torx bit.

Last edited by reivertom; 06/11/20.
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I had a farm boss 290 and it worked good for many years. One spring after around 10 years I couldn't start it and brought it in for repair and they said the gas line was bad. I had a stihl weed wacker too that had the same problem. Both were bought at the same time probably back in the 2000 time frame. Must have been a bad batch of gas lines. Last year after around 20 years I couldn't start it and they said the carb was shot probably from ethanol gas in the early years. Junked it and bought a cheaper echo at HD and it works really well and starts and runs one pull. The cordless power equipment is getting pretty good. I have a full sized tiller but since I have a decent sized garden I wanted a small tiller that could be easier to get in between the rows. I bought a Mantis cordless and it works really well and beats pulling and pushing a hoe or claw in between the rows. I used it on low power for around a half hour and still had 3/4 of the battery.

Last edited by champlain_islander; 06/11/20.

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My old 029 pro sometimes sits for 3 or 4 months without running. I was told that you put the choke on and pull it over until it pops, then take the choke off and another pull or two gets it running. That's the way I've always done it. Can't remember ever having to change the spark plug, but I might have. I always run my two strokes a little heavy on oil so I don't have to keep different mixes for the old vs newer. Works for me! Ymmv.

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Bar and chain flew off because you didn't tighten those two nuts.

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Originally Posted by simonkenton7
Bar and chain flew off because you didn't tighten those two nuts.


The new Stihls have a single dial wheel that tightens the chain instead of the old traditional two nut set-up.

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A single dial wheel. So you don't use the chain saw tool on it?

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I had a Stihl that was prone to flooding. If you pull the spark plug and dry it off, you can get to start without waiting. If you are just doing light homeowner work, get an battery saw. I have a Milwaukee and works great for most work. I have some bigger timber to deal with so I also have a bigger Dolmar gas saw that works great. The Stihl saw I had, had starting and chain oiler problems that the dealer didn't seem to able to fix so I traded in for the Dolmar.

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To start a "Cold" Stihl Chain saw you lock the throttle down while moving the run level all the way to the bottom. This bottom position is the choke and you pull the saw at this position until you get a "Burp" then move the run lever to the run position and pull until it starts, most times 2 or 3 pulls max. When the saw starts release the chain brake, if you set it, and press the trigger to disengage the full throttle lock and now manually run the saw power up an down with the trigger until the saw is running smoothly.

If you pull while the saw in the choke position past where the saw gave a slight "burp" you will flood the saw and you will need to remove the spark plug and let the saw sit of a few minutes before reinstalling he plug and going thru the start procedure again.

If the saw is warm you place the saw in the run position and pull the saw to start, do not start a warm saw in the choke position.

If the saw just stops running while you are using the saw that is a whole different issue, take it to the dealer.

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Originally Posted by champlain_islander
I had a farm boss 290 and it worked good for many years. One spring after around 10 years I couldn't start it and brought it in for repair and they said the gas line was bad. I had a stihl weed wacker too that had the same problem. Both were bought at the same time probably back in the 2000 time frame. Must have been a bad batch of gas lines. Last year after around 20 years I couldn't start it and they said the carb was shot probably from ethanol gas in the early years. Junked it and bought a cheaper echo at HD and it works really well and starts and runs one pull. The cordless power equipment is getting pretty good. I have a full sized tiller but since I have a decent sized garden I wanted a small tiller that could be easier to get in between the rows. I bought a Mantis cordless and it works really well and beats pulling and pushing a hoe or claw in between the rows. I used it on low power for around a half hour and still had 3/4 of the battery.


I have the same saw. Was getting tired feeling, took it in for it's first service in however long I've had it, over 10 years anyway. For under $100, got a new carb, new plug, cleaned everything up and sharpened it. Runs like a new saw, though she can't compete with my new MS362. I don't remember ever flooding my old saw, but the new one does seem more prone.

If I never left my suburban yard I suppose an cordless saw might be attractive, but outside of that forget it. You'd even have to charge it off the genny in a storm cleanup situation.


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A shiny new 362. I dream about that saw at night.

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This is why it’s best to spend a little extra money on a pro model saw. Mix Stihl or husky 2 cycle oil in high octane non ethanol fuel. As far as removing burrs on drivers just remount chain loose on bar and crank the throttle a few times. This will remove the burrs and your good to go.

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Originally Posted by simonkenton7
A single dial wheel. So you don't use the chain saw tool on it?


Yes, it has a gear on the back of it that moves the blade in and out. I have a brand new MS 180 that has the new style bkade tensioner on it. Will ppst a pic when I get home tonight.

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Originally Posted by simonkenton7
A shiny new 362. I dream about that saw at night.



Treat yourself man, you deserve it. You know it felt right when you held it. Been using the dogshite out of mine.


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I have been less than impressed with the newer stihls

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Originally Posted by mirage243
Originally Posted by simonkenton7
A single dial wheel. So you don't use the chain saw tool on it?


Yes, it has a gear on the back of it that moves the blade in and out. I have a brand new MS 180 that has the new style bkade tensioner on it. Will ppst a pic when I get home tonight.



My new MS 362 adjusts same as they always have.


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