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Ok, I'm in too far to turn back. My 6.5 CR Remington 600 is coming together. I scored a Varmint contour 6.5 CR 700 barrel, had it shortened to 18" and fitted to the 600 receiver. and now the fun starts. I have to enlarge the sporter barrel channel to accommodate the varmint barrel.,and I'm here for help. Where to start, equipment, all kinda pointers.
Thanks

Last edited by salarguy; 06/08/20.

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Someone is going to suggest sandpaper wrapped around a socket. I have seen many Bubba jobs done with that "trick."

First step is to remove a bunch of wood down inside the inletting but stay away from the edge... no closer than about 1/8"... whoopppps Canadian, a? 3-4mm should work... Do not touch the edges at all until you have the entire inner area cleared out down to a reasonable depth.

Then starting at the action end file both sides of the channel vertically. Keep trying the barreled action in the stock and it will very quickly start dropping down into the channel. Advance your filing a little bit farther out and keep both sides even. At some point you can start using your action screws to put the barrel in line exactly. Inletting screws are better, but are probably not available. At that point I start using carbon paper because it is cleaner on small jobs than inletting transfers like soot or lipstick or commercial marking. Just lay a piece in the channel at the sticking points and press the action into the channel.

The carbon paper will show the high spots. Continue to file off the high spots until the barrel settles into the channel completely.


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A couple extra pointers:
As you work along the edges try to file longer sections than just the exact high spot, but not by much... keep looking at the barrel contour, which is very little on those barrels, but there is a small radius (Winchesters are straighter and Rugers, straighter yet) so it is not exactly a straight line until you get down the barrel a way.

I use a Foredom flexible shaft tool for the job and eat down the inner area very quickly. But I slow way down on getting the edge to drop in.

Seal the barrel channel (if you are not going to full-length bed) after with a finish similar to the outside of the stock. I am assuming an original wood stock... Using an unequal finish will potentially allow water to come or go faster one side or the other. That can lead to warping...


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Originally Posted by Sitka deer
A couple extra pointers:
As you work along the edges try to file longer sections than just the exact high spot, but not by much... keep looking at the barrel contour, which is very little on those barrels, but there is a small radius (Winchesters are straighter and Rugers, straighter yet) so it is not exactly a straight line until you get down the barrel a way.

I use a Foredom flexible shaft tool for the job and eat down the inner area very quickly. But I slow way down on getting the edge to drop in.

Seal the barrel channel (if you are not going to full-length bed) after with a finish similar to the outside of the stock. I am assuming an original wood stock... Using an unequal finish will potentially allow water to come or go faster one side or the other. That can lead to warping...


Thanks a bunch fella. What do yo suggest as a method of fixing the stock securely while working it?


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Whenever I rebarrel on a 600/660 action, I replace the recoil lug with one from a 700 series action that has the same contour as the receiver ring.

I also install Willie Manning's excellent bottom metal on my 600/660s. cvmwearthlink.net

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One can purchase channel scrapers for just that job. Pick one up that is slightly under size for ones barrel, and always go with as opposed to against the flow of the grain. In many instances that will be rear to front on one side of the stock and the opposite direction on the other. Some inletting black and a brush will also help. I used a big shop vice with lots of towels for padding to hold things while working.

One can buy woodworking vices equipped with leather lined jays and adjustable 6 ways from hell if he wants to get serious.


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When I did this exact thing to my 600, I just ran a ball end mill down it until it was close, then filed/sanded to where I wanted. I guess there's lots of ways to go at it. varmint barrel does NOT look normal in a 600 forend, at least not to me. It sure shoots good though.


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Originally Posted by dennisinaz
When I did this exact thing to my 600, I just ran a ball end mill down it until it was close, then filed/sanded to where I wanted. I guess there's lots of ways to go at it. varmint barrel does NOT look normal in a 600 forend, at least not to me. It sure shoots good though.

You might as well just run a chain saw!
wink

Double entendre intended.


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Originally Posted by 260Remguy
Whenever I rebarrel on a 600/660 action, I replace the recoil lug with one from a 700 series action that has the same contour as the receiver ring.

I also install Willie Manning's excellent bottom metal on my 600/660s. [email protected]



I have his bottom metal/trigger guard on all three of my 600s,and 10/4 on the recoil lug!


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Originally Posted by dennisinaz
When I did this exact thing to my 600, I just ran a ball end mill down it until it was close, then filed/sanded to where I wanted. I guess there's lots of ways to go at it. varmint barrel does NOT look normal in a 600 forend, at least not to me. It sure shoots good though.


I guess one man's meat is another one's poison! I've got it down to final finishing now and I think it's a thing of beauty. How far back from the forend should I clearance the .040" to the barrel?


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OK, a little chink in the armour.! Turns out i need a finish reamer. My dear friend and Gunsmith, Alumni of Colorado School of Trades, Gunsmith Academy, says I'm a little short, and there doesn't seem to be a 6.5 Creedmoor finish reamer anywhere on this little Island of ours. If one of you guys have a low mileage example that you would loan, rent or sell, I would be eternally grateful.
Thanks
Gord


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Send the barrel to Shooter71 for reprofile and proper chamber

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Originally Posted by ShortMagFan
Send the barrel to Shooter71 for reprofile and proper chamber

Normally a great suggestion, but I’m not sure he can without a great deal of additional paperwork and hassle.

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Originally Posted by AKwolverine
Originally Posted by ShortMagFan
Send the barrel to Shooter71 for reprofile and proper chamber

Normally a great suggestion, but I’m not sure he can without a great deal of additional paperwork and hassle.


I can reprofile a barrel in 2 minutes with my dealt belt sander..


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Then STFU. The rest of your statement is superflous bullshit with no real bearing on this discussion other than to massage your own ego.

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Originally Posted by 1minute
One can purchase channel scrapers for just that job. Pick one up that is slightly under size for ones barrel, and always go with as opposed to against the flow of the grain. In many instances that will be rear to front on one side of the stock and the opposite direction on the other. Some inletting black and a brush will also help. I used a big shop vice with lots of towels for padding to hold things while working.

One can buy woodworking vices equipped with leather lined jays and adjustable 6 ways from hell if he wants to get serious.


I have a set of these... got them from Boyd's Gunstocks...

Pretty easy to use....I have 3 different sizes for barrel channels in the set....

I use to finish a lot of Boyd Stocks...before they became available all the way done....


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I have the barrel done/floated. I actually like the heavy ,shortened barrel in the 600. Now I'm thinking about Brownels for a Manson reamer. I've had good experiences with them in the past.


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