Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Optics Should I epoxy scope bases to receiver?

I'm not sure that I follow that logic, using a flexible epoxy, unless you simply want to seal out moisture.

That product is used in a different application. Since there is no fastener holding the golf club head to the shaft, flexible epoxy must fix the golf head to the club by adhesion. Impact and peeling resistance are very desirable. But our scope bases are held in place with fasteners, which provide a clamp load. I don't want a flexible spacer, between the base and receiver. Just like I don't want a flexible washer in a bolted joint, unless it is required for vibration isolation or some other special application.

Where'd ya get that trigger shoe?


Happy Trails


Bob

Same place he got that trigger.

Boob,

I reckon that's a Tyler,though I've got Flaig and Williams too. Hint.

Not long ago yarded a Williams offa' POS Pre-64 Suckaloo 70.

Hint.



Works well for melding/masking a broken trigger and I've broken more than a few...though they often fail too high up,to do so. Hint..................







FlamingJan,

I never knew RB to make 'shoes. Hint. Congratulations?!?

You gals are always a Treasure Trove of "information". Hint. LAUGHING!

Bless your heart for trying.

Hint.

Laughing!.............

Serious question Big Stick
What advantage does a trigger show offer. I have seen a few in person but never used one. The ones I've seen were on benchrest rifles. Thanks for any info.

Texczech;
Good evening to you sir, I hope the day's been a fine one for you and this finds you well.

While I am not Larry, we are I suppose both from north of the medicine line and share the same barber from the photos I've seen.

Trigger shoes used to be a big deal and seem to have lost favor with a lot of shooters, however I'll admit to having one on about every non-lever action arm in the safe.

The reason I like them personally is that they make the trigger pull sensation different - to me lighter in feel as well as allowing the trigger finger to sense where the pull is at during the process.

On a couple of occasions in my shop I've had non-shoe users guess the trigger pull weight of a rifle with and without a shoe installed and in each and every case they guessed that I'd adjusted the trigger to a lighter weight with the shoe installed.

Anyway sir, while Larry may have different and valid reasons for using shoes, those are mine.

Hopefully that made some sense and was useful. All the best to you all.

Dwayne

BC30cal - that is the same reason Iike them also, On hunting rifles with the trigger set at 2 - 2 1/2 #s they give a more controlable feel to the trigger. and I just shoot better using one, sure wish they were as commonly available as they used to be. Every rifle or pistol I had one on performed better and made me look like a better shooter than I am

I just wish I could gind a good source for them at reasonable prices, I would have one on every rifle. The last one I picked up was from a friend who lived on Lake Moie near Cranbrook, I have'nt
found another one since then.

drover

BouncedCzeck,

The biggest advantage of a Trigger Show,is to grant folks opportunity to see what Splendid Wares will reliably do and I often put on a Trigger Show,while using a Trigger Shoe. Hint. Congratulations?!?

As rifle mass reduces,it's prudent that a trigger's break follow suit and especially during a Trigger Show. A Trigger Shoe is a rather simplistic means to mechanically add leverage,upen what is often a woefully inadequate trigger's face. Hint.

Of course not all trigger's are "equal" in their mechanics or ergo's and a Trigger Shoe is a GREAT equalizer. Wares of repute,reliably wear exemplary triggers,more than a few of which are adjustable in a latitude of range to/fro and port/starboard,as well as LOP,along with break weight and often for each of two-stages. Hint.



All trigger faces should be much wider than issued,because it's easier to remove material,than add it. 'Course given that aid,then same would drift the inlet and it's metal,which simplifies mechanics and maintenance(say a saltwater immersion,or similar gross intrusion). Hint.

I've seen a Trigger Show,very MUCH influence folks cutting checks and procuring Showpieces,because real time results are rather good for Sales. Fact bein',nobody don't not procure in suit,after a Trigger Show. Hint.

Pardon my bolstering Sales,in regards to more than a "few" wares...as the Show must go on.

Hint.

LAUGHING!.................

Sounds complicated. This fall I will have to try gluing a base
down.

I'm trying to carve a seemingly epoxied but broken front bead,outta Sister's Superposed.



I've seen me goop up bases and rings. Lotsa folks are in a hurry to forget,that rifles don't shoot "tight"...they loosen schit. Have seen wayyyyyyyyyyy more base/ring failures,than I have mechanical issues attributed to the rifle proper and of course more scope pukes,than both combined. Tough to beat an extended 1913 rail,to circumvent all of that and (6) cap fasteners sure in the fhuqk IS soothin'. Never had either bobble,but I'm still trying. Mebbe today will be the day!?!(grin)

Much to be said,for connecting dots,right outta da' gate.

Hint..................

A lot of people have already pointed out, bases and receivers do no always match. If the radius on the base is only slightly larger than that of the receiver, the only contact will be in the middle of the base. This will allow it to rock back and forth.
One can test this by mounting a dial gauge on the barrel and placing the indicator point against the objective bell of the scope. By pushing on the scope, you can easily deflect it by 20 thou or more. When you release the pressure the scope should come back to zero. If it does not, there is a problem with the mount. By epoxying the base to the receiver, one can be pretty sure that is not the problem. I would rather not use aluminum bases either.
Re. trigger shoes: One thing a trigger shoe does is, it locates your finger in the same place for each shot. This gives a more consistent weight of pull. Of course, simply shaping the trigger correctly can accomplish the same thing. I always felt that Canjar did a good job of this.
While not many of us torture test our rifles like Limp Stick does, we should all want our rifles to be able to perform that well. Scopes and mounting systems should be tough. A person should be able to use the scope as a carrying handle or let the rifle slide around in the back of the truck. You may not plan on tossing your rifle on the ground but a real hunting rifle should be able to take it. A scope is an aiming device and, if the mount shifts around, it won't do a very good job of aiming at the same place.
By the way, I glass bed my scopes into the ring, rather than lapping. In essence, I am making my own ring insert. It is possible to build some elevation into the mount this way as well. GD

dumbdog,

Your STUPIDITY never wanes,in it's Magnificent Humor,as you simply do your best...you "lucky" kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?

Do tell about your "cutting edge" Crooked Gooped Ring Cap "results" and the inclination amount it "yields". I fhuqking DARE you to post a picture of same. Don't "forget" to cite the blueprint,base,ring and scope particulars. Hint. LAUGHING!

Jeezus Fhuqk you are a CLULESS Kchunt. Hint.

1000 words on just a smallllll linkling,to the magnitude. Google it. Hint. LAUGHING!

Be SURE to "tell" folks "more",about your version of "knowledge","experience" and "results"!



Bless your heart,for Drooling on your keyboard.

Hint.

LAUGHING!.............

All: As usual small twigs post is useless, senseless, immature and profane - the sadness that he (it?) is, is simply underwhelming.
I have been shooting my Rifles with scopes on them for exactly 60 (sixty!) years now - and those Rifles number well up into the hundreds!
I have never "epoxied" the scope bases to any of my MANY scoped Rifles over those decades.
I have, though, tried to "clean-up" some Rifle receivers that had bases epoxied to them - those incidents were nearly as big a pain in the ass as small twig continues to try and be.
I say install correctly and with the correct torque values.
You will be good to go.
Hold into the wind
VarmintGuy

VG, no one had ever used penicillin prior to 1928. In that year would you have stamped your feet and declared it unnecessary because in the previous 60 years you didn't think you'd needed it?

Of course it could be your hunting style isn't particularly hard on rifles and scopes... epoxy on scope bases is a lot like the proverbial handgun - "you don't need it until you need it badly."

Redundancy is always a good thing in mechanical systems...

VarmintGal,

Here's to how very WELL founded your COUNTLESS Insecurities are...you "lucky" kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?

You couldn't knock the "new" offa' used pair of boots,with a 60 year headstart,a tailwind and headed downhill. HINT. Laughing!

What you "brazenly" extoll as 60 years of "experience",is what I simply call "an afternoon" and that dichotomy,is assuredly funnier than fhuqk. Google it. Hint.

Might that be yet another double-lugged Marty rail?!? Hint. LAUGHING!



Might this be yet another? Hint. LAUGHING!



The only thing you "shoot" is your quivering lips and Imagination,though your Drooling CLUELESSNESS never wanes in it's grandiose oblivious humor qotient. Read that again. Now one more time. Hint.

Bless your heart,for doing the best you can,with what INCREDIBLY little you "have" to "work" with. Fortunately for you,Imagination and Pretend are free,so you can "afford" to "contribute".

Please note my GREAT "surprise",that epoxy with a surface area less than a couple square inches and staring you in the face,whipped your ass sooooooooo convincingly. What were the "odds"?!?

Hint.

LAUGHING!..................

Most times yes, all times NO

Dip Stick,

I don't post pictures but I'll try and describe the epoxy bedding of the scope and the potential inclination so you can understand it. Judging from your post, where you have already describe bedding of the ring "cap" when it is plain, to anyone with a functioning brain, that is, one not affected by alcohol induced encephalopathy, that the epoxy is applied to ring base or, the bottom of the ring. I may have a little trouble putting it in terms you can follow but here goes:
You clueless, stupid, dik head. It's hard to tell sometimes if you are truly as stupid as you seem to be but there is certainly plenty of evidence that, if I look up dumb shidt in the dictionary, I'm likely to see your picture.
The epoxy goes in the BOTTOM of the ring, dumass. To clarify, that's the part closest to the floor. To accomplish some forward inclination while, at the same time, getting a perfect, stress free, contact between the scope and ring, you follow these instructions:

First, mount the bases to the receiver and DO use epoxy between the bases and receiver. Second, attach the rings to the bases and remove the tops. Third, rough up and degrease the bottom of the ring. Fourth, cut a couple of thin (.10") strips of .010 shim stock. bend these so they sit nicely in the bottom of the ring base. These will be placed, stacked, at the rear of the rear ring. Can you picture this? Is the struggle making your head hurt? You poor, simple, pretender in all things. Apply some paste wax to your scope tube. Now mix up some Acraglas or Marine tec or Belzona and put some into the bottom of both rings. The shims will be imbedded in the epoxy, at the rear of the rear ring. Press the scope down into the rings and install the tops (or caps, if you prefer. This is the part closest to the ceiling. Look up.) You dont have to tighten these down much. Ideally the contact points will be on the shims and at the front edge of the front ring. the rest will be filled with epoxy. Let it sit overnight. Pop the scope out and clean up, if you like. Clean up the scope tube. Sprinkle a tiny amount rosin in the bottom of the rings, on the perfectly matching surface and clamp the scope in the rings. The amount of inclination you get by raising the rear ring by .020" will depend on ring spacing. Pretend you understand or just keep on luxuriating in the ignorance that is your life! Hint. GD

'475,

If only for starters,not all base/rings are equal. Hint. Congratulations?!?

VarmintGal has never even "seen" anything worth a fhuqk,let alone actually "used" it,but I enjoy how REAL her Imagination is to her. Nor has she come even close in passing,to getting the goody out of anything,save her Pretend. Hint.

Bless her heart.

Hint.

LAUGHING!................






dumbdog,

You Magnificently CLUELESS Fhuqk,I'm VERY "surprised" that a camera is so far beyond your "means"...you "lucky" kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?

The query was thus: "Do tell about your "cutting edge" Crooked Gooped Ring Cap "results" and the inclination amount it "yields". I fhuqking DARE you to post a picture of same. Don't "forget" to cite the blueprint,base,ring and scope particulars. Hint. LAUGHING!" HINT.

Give 'er another whirl,as you wipe more drool from your bib and put trembling finger to keyboard,you AMAZINGLY Stupid Fhuqk. Hint.

Bless your heart and Retardation.

Hint.

Laughing!!!

WOW +P+++!.....................

Agree all bases aren't equal, I use Seekins and NF bases

You sad, sorry, brainless, twit. I should have known that a description was beyond any chance for you to understand. Once again, dickweed, the goop does not go on the cap.
The glassbedding of the ring, as a substitute for lapping was done with various combinations just to ensure a decent fit. The first I saw of this was on rifles used by a couple of hillbillies from southern BC (the Forslund brothers), in the mid seventies, and, I'll confess, I copied them. Altering the technique to achieve some elevation enhancement was something I did on my own although I doubt I was the only one. I was trying to get enough elevation to sight a 24x Leupold in at 300m and be able to reach 900 with a 308. By doing this, I was able to get on at 300m with the scope at the bottom of it's adjustment and reach 900 with room to spare. The rings were, and are, any horizontally split ring. Rings like the Burris and Leupold are good. Rings which use angled screws to attach the cap are kind of limited since they can't tolerate much inclination. This was long before Burris was offering their rings with the inserts to accomplish the same thing.
I have to point out, this is something I only do to get more range out of rifles and scopes for F class or high power rifles. For hunting rifles, I don't need to shoot that far and am more in the "set and forget" camp.
I asked myself, before I wrote this, Do I want to go through the trouble of diggin out the old Polaroid so I can make some pictures for this mental midget, in hopes that he will be able to understand. My decision was, hell no, he's not worth the trouble and , even with pictures, he's still stupid so there is no guarantee. Maybe I should put some stuff on You Tube. I mean, if you can do it, how hard can it be. Just on looks alone, I've already got an edge. Add in personality and intelligence and I can't see how it could miss! GD