Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunter's Campfire wood work repair

Deny everything and charge them double for the inconvenience. Audace, audace, toujours l'audace. KW will explain.


mike r

Real good idea. It looks like it should of had that in the first place .



Happy Trails


Bob

With them knowing the extent of the damage and the obvious condition of cabs perhaps cutting a Dutchman in would be the answer. I believe w the newer cellphone cameras that you’d be able to print a pic and have a good stain tinted to very near match color. Stain prior to installation then pin nail like your cab man will. Also most all wooden flooring mfgs make stain matching crayon for the corner and to striate the patch to match. Armstrong always told us “putty is your buddy.” It will easily be the prettiest part of the cabs!

From the picture it looks like the gouged corner is two seperate pieces, independent of each other. From the hinge setup it looks like the left and right are two doors opening opposite.
If so, do as Dwayne suggested, clean up the splinters, apply liberal glue (I would use a good wood glue) and clamp with c-clamps and wood or flooring blocks to spread the clamp force and reshape the base. When that has dried, fill in the remaining damage as required. I would probably use Plastic Wood of the appropriate color. Then carefully sand and touch up the stain with a felt tip stain pen blended with some artful finger blending.

I came across that video today while doing some researching on Ocean City reels.

There was a bamboo rod and reel setup I was looking into buying.

How much did that shark weigh?

What about 5 feet?

Set a broom In front of it, get the check, cash it, block their phone number

Easy, peasy. JFC do I really have to tell you [bleep] like this?!

Don’t laugh.........but fill it, sand it and hand paint it with a tiny brush using several different colors of paint mixed custom to match as you go. Get a dark brown and lighten it with white, etc. Tedious but very doable.

Looks like me and NVhntr are on the same page.

How the [bleep] you put a c-clamp on an outside corner?

STX, you obviously know not to take advice from half the retards on here.

looks like about a 4ft blacktip probably around 40 lbs. they are really good eating and thats the prefect size.

Screw it. Get some paintable caulk and brown paint in a rattle can.


Happy Trails


Bob

You remove the door to the left........

It's too bad to use filler and stain. Like digital Dan said, corner moulding, stain to match. Any repair on that will be noticeable.

Is that the only corner like that? What I would do is mill out a piece of oak that goes from that back corner then wraps around and covers the front. It would be rather thin, 3/8" inch thick or so and "L" shaped to cover the damaged area. If there are other corners like that then you would have to do them the same so it doesn't look odd.

In essence make it look like it's part of the design. A stark corner like that is ugly anyway.

Roger, you should do this ^^^^^^^^^^, so you can send your cabinet guy to do the work, while you go fishing.

I am late to this, but bingo, that is the best way.

Tell them you want their corner protected from ever getting damaged again, and go buy a can of flat black spray paint (match the hinges), and go buy one of these and cut to fit…..that way you can repair it yourself, and save a couple hundred.

https://www.webstaurantstore.com/24931/stainless-steel-wall-guards.html

Or buy wood corner mould at .65/ft and a can of stain at $3 and be done with it.

Re-veneer both damaged faces in their entirety. Stain and finish to match.

Yeah, if he could get that bulging piece on the right back into place with small short finish nails (so they don’t protrude into the cabinet where they could get you or glue a piece of wood on the inside to make thicker and hide the nails coming through), and nail the corner back together, that outside corner mold would work good, especially with it being thinner than the block paneling I was suggesting to match the thickness of the doors. That outside mold would be a lot easier to make a tight finish at the top, up against the counter at the top.

You reading this Roger? You could handle this. You don’t need to pay a cabinet guy.

Find some in Oak to match.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/96-in-Solid-Wood-Corner-Guards/1000446195

Plus, if you need to do other corners like it, it’d be easy to match.

Those are them 1960s/70s Sears Monkeyward cabinets. Grandparents had them in their kitchen before Pops and I ripped them the F out in the 80's.

As mentioned before Corner moulding with stain to match.